When it comes to Couture Season, nothing really shocks any more. We’ve had shock for shock value’s sake, and boring understated glamour that undermines what couture season is about. Couture is about opulence and riches, it’s about made to measure and total excess, it’s about what we, the little people, will never be able to afford, and what the very rich buy just to prove they can.
Couture season is just magical. It’s like stepping through the wardrobe into Narnia, it’s otherworldly, it’s a place where there are no limits, where literally anything goes. Of course it’s rare that people lift directly from the runway with couture, although it does happen. The beauty of it is that any of it can be changed, if you like the top of one dress and the bottom of another, it’s no problem, the fashion houses are generally pretty flexible for their couture customers, because they’re big money players and they come back season after season. These are the people who sit at the shows, and that’s why they’re so very different to the commercial global Fashion Months that I usually attend, because the people sitting in the audience are potential buyers – for their own personal wardrobes, or personal shoppers for mega rich buyers.
For Spring 2019 Viktor & Rolf sent a super fun, playfully tongue in cheek couture collection down the Paris runway. What was so awesome about this collection is how weirdly wearable it is in today’s fucked up society. Yeah sure it’s huge and it’s crazy, it’s millefeuille and tulle and each piece was wider than the next, but just think about the Instagram generation. With every piece from this collection being shared the next day in a meme, or being described as a mood or a vibe, it’s clear that Viktor & Rolf have tapped not just a whole new demographic, but an entire new market: The Meme Re-Share Generation. It’s a solid generation who can get a picture seen by millions of people in minutes. They can convert it into video, overlay music, turn it into streetwear, and before you know it, Viktor & Rolf is a name known by a whole new generation who maybe only ever heard of it in relation to its Flowerbomb fragrance and quite possible don’t know what couture is, or why it even exists. Boom.
It’s the power of the slogan tee, applied to couture, with a little bit of simple math.
It’s a clever and very appealing collection, one I adore because of it’s extravagance, but also it’s simplicity, I’d wear every single piece, to wash the dishes, to do the school run, I’d style the absolute hell out of it because it’s cool as fuck and I get it – it’s hilarious. I can’t wait to see them gift something to Celeste Barber, I think this would be the perfect collection for a partnership. We’ve seen her with Tom Ford, I’d absolutely love to see her do something with this on the red carpet.