Naomi Hart’s latest collection, The Sovereignty Of Stillness, explores the value of presence over performance. Drawing inspiration from movement in nature, the collection observes the subtle dialogue between motion and pause, with Hart questioning what it means to be perpetually visible and what this has done for modern style. The designer employs sartorial construction, warm earth-toned palettes and natural fabrics such as wool, pony-hair and suede to encourage the audience to find joy in quiet details.

The Independent conceptual womenswear brand was founded in 2023, and has quickly established itself through bold artistic expression and a distinctive approach to shape, colour, and fabric. A graduate of the London College of Fashion, Hart’s work is informed by an upbringing in the British countryside, where close ties to nature shaped her creative outlook. The visual language of the brand is rooted in personal reference and instinctive design. Hart draws on early interests alongside artistic influences shaped by growing up around her father’s creative practice.

Naomi Hart’s work balances expressive silhouettes with considered construction to explore themes of modern femininity and individuality. Produced with a striking attention to detail, each piece is developed with a focus on form and utility. The designer utilises creative pattern cutting as a tool to express personal influences. All garments are handmade through a small-scale production process, prioritising longevity and quality over volume. In addition to made-to-order pieces, selected designs are available to rent, offering an alternative model of ownership that supports circular fashion and more responsible consumption.

In a powerful meditation on fragmentation, resilience, and the courage to break through invisible barriers, Young Creators Award Winner Genaro Rivas (Vogue Business x Visa) unveils ‘A Glass to Break’ at London Fashion Week.

The collection consists of 26 predominantly womenswear looks, with selected menswear silhouettes, exploring the act of rebuilding from what has been broken. Exaggerated tailoring introduces architectural silhouettes, while deconstructed garments are reassembled with intention and technical precision. Sleeves extend dramatically, proportions elongate, and jackets reveal bursts of fabric that emerge like wounds giving these pieces an emotional element as well as structural definition. The palette is stark and evocative: deep blacks, slategreys, luminous silvers, and sharp accents of red that split through the entire collection. Materials are central to the narrative. Printed silks, mohair and denim are combined with innovative textiles developed in collaboration with biomaterial partners including Ponda (ocean sourced nylon), Savian by BioFluff (plant based bio-fur) and Banofi (plant based leather).

Hand craftsmanship is present from intricate closures and acrylic detailing to the introduction of accessories for the first time in the designer’s runway. All headpieces were developed by Roberta Cucuzza, some of which integrated biomaterials, adding sculptural warmth to the structural language of the collection. Sustainable denim experimentation also appears throughout, emphasising a commitment to responsible textile development.

This February, for AW26 Leo Prothman wrote a letter to editors detailing the inspiration behind his All Genders collection, CABAÑA. This is a collection born from a week spent secluded in San José del Pacífico, Mexico, surrounded by mist, earth, and colours Prothmann had never fully understood until time spent living with them. There, he began to notice how buildings carried pigment like memory: mud, mustard, oxblood, teal, forest green, tones shaped slowly by weather and time. Prothmann immersed himself fully in this experience, walking for hours through shifting terrain, returning each evening thinking about structure and collapse, about garments that could hold themselves with clarity and then soften, as bodies do.

This season leans into Prothmann’s personal connection to fashion and garments found in his own wardrobe. Oversized, structured silhouettes fall into a deliberate slouch, while vibrant tones settle into unexpected placements. Comfort and resistance sit side by side.

The shell forms that have long defined the designer’s practice return in a new expression, becoming quilted leather parkas, modular and protective, and morning capes imagined for rituals at first light. Constructed from offcut leather strips and reinforced internally with boning, these pieces maintain their architecture before yielding gently to movement.

Leather remains my the staple fabric used within this season’s offering. For CABAÑA, Prothmann worked closely with Nene Valley Leather, specialists in upholstery hides designed to endure daily life. Using fully by-product leather, firm yet supple, the focus is clearly on longevity and garment life.

As the collection evolved, Edda Gudmundsdottir shaped the styling with instinct, guiding colour and proportion so that contrast feels lived rather than imposed. The garments closest to the skin became equally important. With Carmela Dias at London College of Fashion, contour pieces and thermals that support the structure above them were developed specifically to support this collection.

Inversa Leathers introduces Silverfin fish leather into the collection, sourced from invasive species removed from fragile ecosystems. Through craft, environmental imbalance is redirected into material with intention and consequence. CABAÑA feels intentional and for a London Fashion Week debut seems to already deliver a distinctive signature style and ready made fashion ecosystem, we’re looking forward to seeing more from Leo Prothmann the fashion designer who intertwines his narrative seamlessly into the garments he produces.