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Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: Fashion, Models, Uncategorized

Hellavagirl Presents Human Meat Freaks for London Fashion Week SS18

During London Fashion Week there’s always one show standout show.  It’s one that’s usually hotly anticipated because of the spectacle of previous shows, for SS18 that show was Hellavagirl Couture.

If you’re not familiar, British designer Helen Woollams has created a brand synonymous with gothic, macabre glamour and fetishism.  A label that celebrates the weird and makes the outsider then norm.  It wasn’t too long ago that Hellavagirl Couture was given it’s big break, with Woollams named Designer of the Year in February 2016, this is one brand That’s rising with velocity and establishing it’s very own niche at London Fashion Week.

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Hellavagirl SS18 LFW Fashion Voyeur 4

For SS18 Woollams treated us to Human Meat Freaks, a show that brought our deepest darkest fetishes to life in a pre-show ritual featuring circus performers and gravity defying acrobatics.  To the uninitiated it would appear that Woollams is out to shock her audience, we’ve become pretty close over the years I’ve been attending her shows and knowing the designer, the show is more about breaking down barriers and saying a massive Fuck You to society and conformity.  If a guy wants to wear a gown then so what?  In the world of Hellavagirl Couture it’s about owning your aesthetic and topping it off with a crown and a bold red lip.

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“Inspired by our love for flesh, fetish and guilty pleasures, gender-less extravagance with a rock and roll edge. Non conformist Fashion for the bold”  Hellavagirl Couture

Human Meat Freaks built on the capsule collection produced for FW17 and made the most of the impressive showspace in the grand temple space at Freemason’s Hall.  The collection gave us bold harlequins with elongated proportions and striking sequins, huge black shredded gowns with an aesthetic reminiscent of Brendan Lee in The Crow and the most diverse cast of models this season.

In the Hellavagirl universe what sets you apart is your differences and that goes for the cast of models too, Woollams has managed to create an expectation for the unexpected and delivered something with undeniable edge.  Think Bad Romance meets Plato’s Atlantis and you’re definitely on the right track, in fact if Gaga is looking for a new tour wardrobe designer then Hellavagirl has her vibe cut, edged and belted with black leather and sequins.

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Hellavagirl SS18 LFW Fashion Voyeur 1
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Hellavagirl SS18 LFW Fashion Voyeur 10

Standout pieces included a two piece checked suit with an exaggerated sleeve detail proving the trend for a differentiation from a regular sleeve is going nowhere for SS18, and a green and black sequinned jumpsuit that I’d literally wear tomorrow if I could.  With white and dove grey added to the palette this season Woollams has proven that her ideas are far beyond the realms of noir.  this is one designer who’s far from a one trick pony, something she’s proving season after season, and that’s tricky to master with a niche that’s so small.  Hellavagirl Couture has fans baying for more and more show related chatter on the front row than most other shows put together, it’s probably the only show I’ve ever been to that got a standing ovation from the audience who pretty much stormed the runway just to be part of the spectacular finale of dancing models.

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Hellavagirl SS18 LFW Fashion Voyeur 12
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Hellavagirl SS18 LFW Fashion Voyeur 14

So how was the fashion?  It was good.  Damn good and surprisingly wearable for the brave fashionista.  Sure it’s out there, it’s big, bold and most definitely in your face, but if you’re suppressing an inner goth, or there’s a tiny part of you with the desire to act out, then Hellavagirl is all about rebellion and shunning the entrapments of conformity and there’s probably a part of you that’s curious about exploring that.  There are certainly pieces from the collection I could see myself wearing during LFW FW18 and lavishing the attention they receive, if fashion is about showing your personality then Hellavagirl is about sharing your deepest, darkest secrets; even if they make everyone around you uncofortable.

Pixie xo

Categories: Fashion, Models, Uncategorized

Amira Haroon x Yana Markova SS18 at London Fashion Week

It’s not often we see a partnership at London Fashion Week and on the rare occasion that we do, there’s usually one designer or brand battling for supremacy within the collection. This one however, is a perfectly complimentary relationship and that’s a rarity in fashion.  Beautiful and delicate clothing pieces, complimented perfectly by expertly crafted headpieces.  This Amira Haroon x Yana Markova collection is a match made in fashion heaven.

Amira Haroon showed her American pop culture inspired Spring Summer 2018 collection at London Fashion Week with the late, great Whitney Houston serving as muse.  With a strong focus on the 80’s disco era, the collection was laces with glitter thread, scallop edging and satin, sounds garish but was actually uber cool, relevant and very wearable.  Seven years after setting up her own label, she’s owning the retro disco look with this collection.  It’s a collection that combines the past with the present to great effect and all topped off with some of the most Whitney-esque headpieces you’ve ever seen.  Remember the signature floppy bow that we swooned over in the early 90’s?  This partnership collection showcased a rework of that look perfectly.

Fashion Voyeur Amira Haroon LFW
Fashion Voyeur Amira Haroon LFW

Those signature headwear looks were recreated and reworked by rising star milliner Yana Markova (a darling of the Russian beau monde).  The bow, which will be making an appearance on my very own head during SS18, was crafted using a secret milliners fabric coated in iridescent glitter.  The second headwear look created specially for the Amira Haroon show is one you’ll have to double take to spot as it’s so effective.  a chain style headband crafted from dozens of individual, delicate gold chains, sewn together to give the appearance of an Egyptian style golden wig.  Clever huh?

Fashion Voyeur Amira Haroon LFW
Fashion Voyeur Amira Haroon LFW

 “I was really excited to be asked to collaborate and was honoured to see my pieces on the catwalk over London Fashion Week. I hope that we can do another partnership. We worked well together and understood each other’s design philosophies.”  Yana Markova, Milliner

This talented milliner has roots in fashion, after training in fashion design at the Ural State Academy of Architecture and Arts and went on to work for some of the largest designer fashion, jewellery and accessory brands for fifteen years before launching her own label. Her first collection was met with critical acclaim and she continued to create a fashion range, before turning her attention to millinery.  Her designs have been featured in some of the most prolific Quarterlies in fashion including Jute Magazine, l’Etoile Magazine and L’Officiel, this gal ain’t messing around and with a celebrity following including Lady Gaga (she produced the headpieces for Gaga’s tour wardrobe), this collaboration is sure to cement her status as one of the best and most current in the business.

Fashion Voyeur Amira Haroon LFW
Fashion Voyeur Amira Haroon LFW
Fashion Voyeur Amira Haroon LFW

If like me, you’re a fan of a crown, or any other elaborate and striking headwear, you’ll be pleased to know that the Amira Haroon x Yana Markova headpieces will be available to buy as part of Amira Haroon’s Spring Summer 2018 collection.

Pixie xo

Categories: Beauty, Fashion, North East, Uncategorized

Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre

With Bank Holiday weekend approaching, Intu Metrocentre is hosting four days jam packed with fashion shows kicking off today.

These fun shows will highlight  the latest trends, how to wear them and most importantly, where to find them.  With everything available to buy in the Metrocentre and a handy discount leaflet available from Customer Service desks, you’ll have that Summer wardrobe freshened up in the shake of a pineapple.

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Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre
Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre

I was invited along to the VIP preview night for a sneaky peak at the shows you’ll be able to check out over the next four days and with streetwear, occasionwear, formal wear and even beach wear, Intu Metrocentre have you covered.  I rocked up in an A-line leather skirt from M&S (a Fashion Editor staple) and a Led Zeppelin tee with messy brows and even messier hair.

We sipped cocktails from TGI Fridays, ate chicken salsa from Bar Burrito and even played in a ball pool as we chilled in the Style Garden amongst the palm trees and flamingos before taking our seats on the frow for a fashion extravaganza.

Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre
Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre

With fresh Spring looks from Topshop, Coast, House of Fraser and many more, there’s something for every budget in the shows which take place in Town Square, right outside House of Fraser at regular intervals throughout the four days.  My absolute favourite look was a baby pink overlay skirt from Coast paired with a shimmer body top – if it looks familiar Voyeurs, it’s because I have that very same outfit and it’s awesome.  One of the real highlights of the show was actually Primark – with fast fashion for guys and girls of all ages, and some real trend led items, it was a surprising winner.

Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre
Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre
Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre
Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre

It’s nice to see Intu Metrocentre bringing back the runway show format to unveil the transitional collections.  They’ve really upped their game too, there’s none of the cheesy dancing that you often get with shopping mall fashion shows, this is slick and current and the outfits are styled to reflect a wide demographic.  So when I say there’s something for everyone, I really mean it.  If you’ve got a keen eye, you might just spot the current Miss Newcastle England, and Miss Newcastle England 2015 on the runway representing the North East too!

Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre
Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre
Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre
Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre

With hair and makeup services provided by SHOW Beauty and MAC at House of Fraser, they’ve gone all out to make this weekend a real treat for shoppers visiting Intu Metrocentre and you’ll find that there are a variety of offers and competitions on too in the mall.  So if you’re treating yourself, or someone else, be sure to swing by the show first to find out how you could win yourself some Mulberry swag, courtesy of House of Fraser.

One other little thing to sweeten the deal Voyeurs; you know all about my love of Decleor products and treatments and this Thursday to Saturday, House of Fraser are exclusively offering 20% off ALL Decleor product on counter.  If you’re familiar with the brand, you’ll know that this very rarely happens so get in, and stock up!

If you’re at Intu Metrocentre this Bank Holiday weekend and fancy checking it out, the Intu SS17 fashion shows will be held every day Thursday 27 – Sunday 30 April 2017 and you might just leave with a little vacation inspo…..

Pixie xo

Fashion shows will be shown at regular intervals throughout each day, time table shown below.

Thursday 27 April: 12pm, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm

​Friday 28 April: 12pm, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm

​Saturday 29 April: 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm

​Sunday 30 April: 11.30am, 1.30pm, 3.30pm

Categories: Fashion

London Fashion Week FW17: N&S GAIA presents The Hybrid

SS17 has given fashion lovers more trends, sub trends and micro trends than we can shake a stick at, each of them totally wearable and lustworthy. (I’m looking at you gingham).  If I’m honest, SS17 is when Fashion Month got its mojo back (with the exception of NYFW which was a soaking wet, drowning squib).  FW17 had a tough act to follow and early shows out of the gate at NYFW showed promise.  Now Voyeurs if you don’t know, pay attention: LFW is the younger, fresher, funkier sister of NYFW, the one that everyone loves and wants to cheat with, so as all eyes turned to the British fashion capital we expected great and wonderful things….

The early days of every capital’s Fashion Week are designated for the relatively unknown, new or emerging design talent and these are often some of the best shows you’ll see.  With these showcases and presentations there’s zero expectation, often because we haven’t seen seasons previous or the label hasn’t quite established its niche.  Enter N&S GAIA, a rising star in Indian fashion and originating from New Delhi, the label has contributed to the successful rebirth and modernisation of Dakmanda – a hand-woven embroidery technique of the Garo tribe in North East India.  The brand is also a major proponent of the exploration of upcycling and use of sustainable fabrics. Dedicated to its pillars, the ‘N’ and ‘S’ in N&S GAIA standing for Nature and Sustainability.

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Founded by designer, Sidharth Sinha in 2013, the brand made its second LFW runway appearance at Fashion Scout this show season.  I hotfooted it over to the Freemason’s Hall wearing the most perfect vintage skirt and an incredibly rude tee to bring you the lowdown on this relatively undiscovered label.

Following on from the SS17 collection, which was shown in both London and Paris, and given a coveted Vogue Online collections report, N&S GAIA carries forward its signature style of colourful flowing silks punctuated by wide-legs, exaggerated ruffles, sweeping hems, bold, painterly appliqué and tapestry embroidery.

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Exploring a deep, dark facet of meta-modernism, the FW17 collection, entitled The Hybrid, is centred on nature photography and existential transformation.  Models walked the runway wearing simplistic pieces which grew bolder as the show progressed, starting relatively tame and occasionally rising above the parapet with something more dramatic.  Soft, blurred lines adorned with tapestry embroidery and shapes which reflect the brand’s Indian heritage were the order of the day set in a muted colour palette, sometimes accented with a pop of metallic.

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Shapes were fluid with constructed drapes offset by elements like wide flares, pleating and voluminous sleeves.  Surfaces including the handwoven details of the Dakmanda mix with metallic embroidery echoing the hybrid forms in nature.

Nature starts with almost nothing, just a molecule; where humanity plays the role of the transformation.

A pioneer of sustainability in Indian fashion, N&S GAIA aims to use a balance of hand-woven textiles blended with mill-woven fabric and natural dyes in an effort to push the brand to the forefront of the fashion industry’s natural progression.  Textile and craft are at the core of N&S GAIA and that’s evident in both the craftsmanship and the attention to detail in the embellishment.

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Yes, it’s tame compared to some of the stalwarts of Fashion Month but it’s not just about the drama.  This collection is wearable, relatable and ultimately, sustainable.  This is a brand with a vision and some sense of direction, there are consistencies throughout the collection and that’s great news for a relatively new label.  Measurable progression is key in the fashion industry and time is a key ingredient for progression.  Fashion Scout is known for nurturing design talent so I’m interested to see how the RTW collection is received following show season.

I’ll be back for more in September for SS18 and N&S GAIA’s next power move…

Pixie xo

Categories: Fashion, Models, Uncategorized

London Fashion Week FW17: Hellavagirl Couture

Fresh off the back of her 2016 Britain’s Top Designer win, Helen Woollams has created what’s surely her best visual spectacle yet for Hellavagirl’s FW17 showcase at Fashion Scout.  I headed out to the Freemason’s Hall in a leather A-line skirt (to protect me from the elements) to share this awesome collection with you.  I got to go backstage prior to the show too but that’s a whole other story…..

The Last Dawn on Mars FW17 –A Post apocalyptic inspired couture collection with dark undertones and a regal rock and roll edge, a dys(co)topian future if you will, filled with couture robots to blow your circuits.

The opening look set the tone for the show, a shimmering oversized gown masked the model’s limbs giving the illusion of exaggerated height, topped off with a ginormous flower crown beyond even your wildest dreams, fashioned out of paper by specialist crafters, Tissue Blossoms.

Hellavagirl Couture London Fashion Week FW17 1
Hellavagirl Couture London Fashion Week FW17

A silver two piece consisting of harem pants and a metallic, frilled top dripping with emerald coloured stones (one of my favourite looks) gave off a space age mermaid vibe as an awesome follow up to the opener.  From the Frow, in the VIP section no less, I had a fantastic view of this exciting showcase, a collection which tests boundaries and challenges proportions.  A glittertastic, brocade wrapped, flower topped collection of couture for confident, powerful women who don’t fall at the feet of men.

Hellavagirl Couture London Fashion Week FW17
Hellavagirl Couture London Fashion Week FW17
Hellavagirl Couture London Fashion Week FW17 Silver
Hellavagirl Couture London Fashion Week FW17

Woollams’ collections are always strong, but FW17 is the dark side of the fairytale.  For every wooded tower that hides a princess there’s a gothic witch just wishing she had Hellavagirl on speed dial; it’s exactly that kind of devilishly flirtatious drama.  A hybrid of couture and RTW, this is a collection available to buy and wear but it’s not for the faint of heart.  Filled to he brim with sequins, sparkle, tulle and brocade, it’s dramatic, confident and filled with personality.

Hellavagirl Couture London Fashion Week FW17 BRocade
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Personally, I adored the show, I was keen to see how Woollams would build on her 2016 national recognition and was pleasantly unsurprised.  It’s great to see that she’s stuck to the principles that made her stand out from the crowd in the first place, staying firmly within her talent niche there’s a definite Hellavagirl aesthetic developing.  Creating unapologetic proportions and dramatic shapes that scream “Don’t fuck with me” – a bold trouser with added width at the hip, or a voluminous jacket with looping shoulders, the knack for creating these exaggerated silhouettes has become Woollams’ signature and it’s one I hope she’ll keep as she’s edging the pack.

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When I started writing this post I knew it had to be image led as The Last Dawn on Mars is a collection that has to be viewed to be appreciated.  A distinct Bowie influence makes the collection beautifully bittersweet, but I’ll leave you to make your own assessment.  I can’t wait to see what Hellavagirl brings us in September for SS18 and I’ll be waiting with bated breath for another look inside the mind of Helen Woollams.  So for now Voyeurs, enjoy The Last Dawn on Mars…….

Pixie xo

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Hellavagirl Couture London Fashion Week FW17 Brocade
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Pixie Tenenbaum 2024

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People will stare, make it worth their while

Pixie Tenenbaum

FASHION VOYEUR

Freelance Fashion and Beauty Writer
Currently taking review slots
Hire Me: pixie.tenenbaum@gmail.com

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Copywriter/Editor/Proofreader/Journo in fashion, fashion history & language Currently: Fashion Ed @rionmagazine & @so.edited.co Fashion Innovation @shopbyshape

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pixietenenbaum Pixie Tenenbaum @pixietenenbaum ·
7 Feb

Nah bro

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itgirlenergy linda‎‎ @itgirlenergy ·
29 Jan

Angelina Kendall closing the Jean Paul Gaultier couture ss25 show...the bride 👰‍♀

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jacquemusx Kea @jacquemusx ·
29 Jan

To anybody doubting Glenn Martens’ abilities now that he is set to lead a big Couture house, Exhibit A:

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