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Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: Fashion

Pierre Bergé Co-Founder of YSL Dies Aged 86

As you know, we’re out of the UK on vacation right now but always with one finger on the fashion pulse and never far away from a cellphone or iPad so it saddens me to bring you the news that one of the most prolific, revered but also pretty silent figures in fashion has passed away.

This morning after a long battle with an ongoing illness, Pierre Bergé sadly passed away in his sleep at the age of 86.  Now, if the name doesn’t ring a bell for you let me give you the lowdown on this absolute gentleman and one of the godfathers of fashion.

Bergé was the co-founder of the house of Yves Saint Laurent and life partner of the designer.  The business man behind the brand.  Whilst Saint Laurent bled creativity, Bergé held the reigns and made the corporate finance decisions.

I had the pleasure of meeting Bergé at the VIP Launch of the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective when it visited The Bowes Museum on the North East briefly (read about that here) and spent an evening getting to know this often feared, stern faced man.  He spoke softly and told me that I had fantastic style and amazing taste in footwear, complimenting me on my Chanel ankle boots and vintage McQueen dress.  I remember wondering why Bergé had a reputation as one of the most feared men in fashion when he was so small in stature and quiet of voice.

A lover of the arts and literature, he and Saint Laurent assembled one of the most important private art collections in the world, which was sold at auction in 2009 following the death of the couturier the previous year. Pierre Bergé was one of the great patrons of the arts and culture in France. He served as director of the Théâtre de l’Athénée – Louis-Jouvet and president of the Opéra National de Paris. An activist since his youth, he remained politically engaged throughout his life. In 1994, he founded Sidaction, France’s leading AIDS research and support charity, and actively supported groups fighting social inequality.

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Pierre Bergé & Yves Saint Laurent Paris

Bergé introduced me to the Curator for the Fondation Pierre Bergé, which was created over 40 years to preserve and exhibit the work created by the House of Saint Laurent and to demonstrate the cultural and historical significance the House had in women’s fashion.  He invited me to Paris for a 3 day industry only exhibit and at the time I though he was simply being polite, until it actually happened.  Bergé was uber polite and super knowledgable in fashion.  Despite being the businessman behind the label, Bergé could tell you everything about every piece Saint Laurent created and the story behind it.  I remember arriving at the Fondation in Paris and being greeted by Bergé himself rather than an assistant, and feeling privileged to be able to share such personal memories about the fiercely private pair.

When I heard the news about Bergé to morning I was on the balcony of my apartment in Menorca and I felt sad and actually pretty tearful.  Sad because of the work that Bergé has done throughout his entire career to preserve and exhibit the most wonderful creations by the House he and Saint Laurent founded together.  Sad because although I spent just four days with him, he treated me with kindness despite me being an absolute nobody to him.  Sad because as an openly gay man he campaigned tirelessly for gay rights and ploughed millions of euros into funds with an aim to treat and potentially cure AIDS, and sad because the reputation which preceded him and cast him in a dark light was false.  Certainly in my experience anyway.

Whilst Bergé existed mostly behind the scenes of this fashion empire, after the death of his husband and business partner Yves Saint Laurent, he continued on his path to preserve the legacy of the brand that they created together and Bergé had plans to open up two museums dedicated to Yves Saint Laurent in the Fall of 2017.  Now if that isn’t true love then show me what is.

Rest in peace Pierre Bergé.

Pixie xo

At the initiative of Pierre Bergé, two museums dedicated to Yves Saint Laurent will open in the Fall of 2017: in Paris, on October 3rd, in the former premises of the haute couture house, and in Marrakech, on October 19th, in a new building next to the Jardin Majorelle.

Categories: Uncategorized

Saint Laurent Hires Anthony Vaccarello

Well, it’s official Voyeurs, as everyone in the world predicted, Kering have confirmed that Anthony Vaccarello will replace Hedi Slimane as Creative Director at Saint Laurent.

“Mr Saint Laurent is a legendary figure for his creativity, style and audacity. I am extremely grateful for the opportunity to contribute to the history of this extraordinary house” said Vaccarello in a statement given just moments ago.

“I am very proud to welcome such a vivid and young force among today’s creative fashion talents to Yves Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello’s unique style will greatly express the maison’s creative signature and fashion authority, building on the brand’s solid foundations, and further developing it to realise its full potential. Together with the entire Yves Saint Laurent team, Anthony Vaccarello will strongly contribute to the maison’s growing accomplishments.”  François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO of Kering

Vaccarello is the sixth Creative Director to take the helm of the French fashion house since it’s founder Saint Laurent and it is unknown as yet, whether the designer will revert back to designing under the full title of Yves Saint Laurent, or Saint Laurent, as decided by Slimane following a brand overhaul.

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All that remains to be seen now is Donatella’s “surprising” appointment to Creative Director at Versus Versace, I’m waiting with bated breath Voyeurs…..

Pixie x

 

Categories: Uncategorized

Anthony Vaccarello Exits Versus Versace

The big fashion industry shake up continues with this mornings confirmation that Anthony Vaccarello has indeed, exited Versus.  Versus has long been the younger, edgier, funkier sister to Donatella’s mainline brand and has played host to some of the best design talent in the industry in recent years including Christopher Kane and Jonathan Anderson.  With his own mainline collection in production since 2010, Donatella describes Vaccarello’s style as “distinctive, sexy and cool.”

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News of Vaccarello’s departure started swirling on Saturday evening with an official statement from Versace confirming the news this morning.

“While I’m sad to see him leave the Versace family, I wish Anthony Vaccarello tremendous success with his next chapter,” Donatella Versace 

The next big news we’re all waiting for, is whether or not Kering will name the young designer as the next Creative Director at Saint Laurent after Hedi Slimane’s departure from the French fashion house last week.  A statement is expected to follow some time this week although rumour has it that it’s a done deal.  With his own brand of rock and roll chic, 33 year old Vaccarello is the natural choice to take the helm at Saint Laurent.

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Donatella Versace is yet to announce her plans for Versace’s diffusion line and who will be next to take the reigns, saying only that she will be “surprising everybody” with her announcement.  So, while we’re waiting for the next shuffle of the deck, one thing remains clear, the brand remains an “incubator for talent” and Vaccarello has left a lasting legacy and big shoes to fill in his short one year tenure, whoever steps up next had better be ready to embrace the whirlwind…….

Pixie x

People will stare, make it worth their while

Pixie Tenenbaum

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