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Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: Uncategorized

YSL: Style Is Eternal Exhibition

“If Chanel gave women their freedom, it was Saint Laurent who empowered them.” Pierre Bergé

Two years in the making, months of planning and an iconic dress restored to its former glory just in the nick of time.  – Of course I’m talking about the arrival of the hotly anticipated Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal exhibition to The Bowes Museum.

Business Partner and one time life partner of Saint Laurent, Pierre Bergé arrived in County Durham on Wednesday ahead of the exhibition’s launch accompanied by staff from his Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent, and long standing friend of the pair, Baroness Helene Ludinghausen.

At 89, Bergé is still very much the lifeblood of the Fondation he so painstakingly created in order to preserve the legacy of Saint Laurent.  He admits that still now, he is surprised when he comes across something in the archives that he had forgotten about and how Saint Laurent’s genius is apparent in everything he ever created.

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Bergé had a reputation for being cold and hard in the days of the Yves Saint Laurent house of couture, and when Saint Laurent died in 2008 this appeared to soften him.  At the press conference for Style is Eternal, Bergé was surprisingly open and frank in sharing his love for Saint Laurent.

“(Saint Laurent) was very, very nice. Very nice.  He loved people, his family and his staff were important to him and he loved them.  It’s difficult to understand. He was a fascinating man, very, very bright. And as you can see very talented.” – Pierre Bergé, President Le Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent is largely credited with bringing the discussion of gender in fashion to the table, cutting the first trouser suit for women which ultimately lead to the launch of Le Smoking, the now infamous women tuxedo, recognisable the world over.  The designer was a perfectionist, and Bergé smiles when talking about this, “I’ve known him ask people to unpick a dress and start from scratch all for a millimetre.”

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When asked about the perfect relationship between business and fashion, Bergé is resolute, “When Yves was sick in hospital, after he was dismissed by the house of Christian Dior and I went to see him, he said you know what we need to do?  Create a house of haute couture.” and from there the house of Yves Saint Laurent was born.  “I didn’t want to be a business man. Absolutely not.  So, of course, I became a business man.” laughs Bergé.  He says that their success together was down to one thing, their respect for each others role.  “I decided to respect the creation above the business. Creation comes first and business after.” Talking frankly, Bergé claims that although there are certainly talented designers around today, fashion is now all about marketing and not about the metier.

 “When we started, Yves and I, marketing meant nothing to us. That’s not a language I understand.”

Some of the most iconic pieces in fashion history have been created by the house of Yves Saint Laurent.  From the safari jacket to the Mondrian dress, each is instantly recognisable.  Described as a fashion maverick, in 1966 , he opened the first prêt-à-porter boutique to bear a couturier’s name, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche and it’s there that he worked to create the modern woman’s wardrobe looking to art and history for inspiration.

“Fashions fade, style is eternal.” – Yves Saint Laurent

So, why The Bowes Museum and not London?  Given the success of Savage Beauty at the V&A some would say that Bergé has missed a trick hosting the first ever YSL retrospective in the North of England in a small market town of 5000 people; “Because they asked” says Bergé, “It’s so very like France, I could be in Paris in this beautiful museum in such a beautiful part of the country, it’s perfect and the weather is also beautiful.”  A 17th century style French chateau in sprawling English countryside – it couldn’t be more perfect for one of the last real couturiers to allow the public to breathe in his work.

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The Bowes Museum, already filled with predominantly French objets d’art, has cleared its existing fashion and textiles hall to make way for the exhibition comprising fifty iconic pieces from the YSL archives including the famous Zephirine dress, created by Saint Laurent during his time at Christian Dior and modelled by his favourite model Victoire Doutreleau in 1958 at Blenheim Palace.  The dress was recently rediscovered in storage in the Palais Galliera in Paris and painstakingly restored for this very exhibition – A real coup for both The Bowes and the North East region.  There are over 1000 YSL accessories on display too, from hats to earrings and headdresses as well as swatches and buttons.

The exhibition is delivered over three rooms on the first floor; room 2 is where Joanna Hashagen, Fashion Curator at The Bowes Museum has used existing items from The Bowes’ fashion and textiles exhibition, to marry YSL’s most recognisable pieces with their historical influences.  With the YSL creation as the headline piece in each of the five themed glass boxes, this room in the exhibition is heavily supplemented with period pieces.

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Room 3 is where the magic happens.  In a similar vein to Claire Wilcox with Savage Beauty, Hashagen has created five main themes: Art, Spectaculaire, Transparency, Masculin / Feminin and The Alchemy of Style.  The pieces on display in this room are all showstoppers.  Put simply, this is the best of Saint Laurent and it’s right here in the glorious North East.

From the sheer pieces on display in Transparency, which Bergé says were “truly shocking” to people when first unveiled, to the striking tributes to artists Piet Mondrian and Picasso in Art, each piece has its own place in history and the craftsmanship is undeniable.  With embroidery, paillette layering and harlequin patching taking centerstage, it’s hard not to be blown away by the magnitude and importance of this small but perfectly formed exhibition.

“We are honoured to host the first exhibition in the UK of Yves Saint Laurent, one of the most influential designers of all time.  We are thrilled to work alongside the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent, on an innovative display that introduces a dialogue between the designers’ body of work and The Bowes Museum’s collection.” – Joanna Hashagen

There are previously unseen sketches, collection boards, toiles, hat blocks and of course, Saint Laurent’s beloved paper dolls on display throughout the exhibition.  The dolls were cut from his mother magazines in his teens and he would design outfits for them using paper, giving us a small glimpse at his early genius.

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I attended the press launch in advance of the exhibition opening and had a chance to chat with Helene Ludinghausen, former Head of Couture for Yves Saint Laurent who told me that “The Bowes museum is absolutely the right place for this retrospective and Yves would have loved it, everything about it.”  And I agree, whilst it’s an unexpected choice for an exhibition of this stature, it’s aesthetically and culturally perfect.  she also told me that she loved my Chanel boots and McQueen frock but let’s keep it Saint Laurent…..

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Bergé’s parting statement about Saint Laurent is poignant; “You have to understand he was a very shy person, a beautiful, shy person.  Shy people are always the strong, tough people.”

With the exhibition opening to the public on Saturday, it’s an absolute must for fashion lovers everywhere and for anyone who understands the cultural importance of Saint Laurent in fashion.  Go, soak it up and then go again, it’s probably the only chance you’ll ever get to be around such iconic master pieces and it’s well worth it.

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Pixie x

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Categories: Uncategorized

Rising Star: Kelly Shaw London

Last Sunday saw the close of Capsule in Paris; Capsule is the premiere gathering of the finest apparel and accessories brands from around the world. More than a tradeshow, the brands who participate in Capsule make up a community that is shaping the future fashion landscape.

The FW15 Capsule collective set up shop in Tapis Rouge for three days to coincide with Paris Fashion Week and provided a platform for fresh and emerging talent to showcase their FW15 womenswear collections.  Amongst the designers presenting at Capsule was Brit Kelly Shaw who set up her womenswear label Kelly Shaw London in 2011.    Part of the Young British Designers collective, Shaw is undoubtedly one of the most innovative and exciting designers to emerge from London and her FW15 collection entitled The Liminal Journey, is testament to that.  Clearly influenced by Victoria Beckham, Shaw’s collection is made up of clean, simple lines and bold proportions.

Linda Smock with Open Back £349
Linda Smock with Open Back £349
British Mohair Tartan Coat with Patch Pocket Detail £1200
British Mohair Tartan Coat with Patch Pocket Detail £1200
Julia Wool Shift Dress £399
Julia Wool Shift Dress £399
Roberta Swing Cotton Dress £299
Roberta Swing Cotton Dress £299
White Dolly Shirt with Concealed Placket £190 & Wool Skirt with Multi Twist Panel Detailing £420
White Dolly Shirt with Concealed Placket £190 & Wool Skirt with Multi Twist Panel Detailing £420

 

Kelly Shaw has a close working relationship with artist Jem Doulton who creates bold oil paintings borne out of Shaw’s thoughts and ideas and these, in turn, are scanned and turned into digital prints on fabric.  For this particular collection Shaw was inspired by the process of self-transformation, complex human emotions and the paradox of good and bad, of light and dark.

A clever and original way of working this collaboration ensures that the designers personality and flair is translated into each individual piece.  Shaw is confident, her mantra is this; discover your soul, be bold, be yourself, create, rebel, revolutionise and above all, enjoy.  Each piece in her current collection depicts a quiet protest, from the slogan tees and dresses to the bold prints on delicate silk.  Shaw uses British materials and produces her collections in the UK, this is truly a girl who is proud to be British and supporting the British fashion industry.

Metallic Cosmos Shift Dress £425
Metallic Cosmos Shift Dress £425
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Slogan Tee £65
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Slogan Tee £65
Liminal Dress with Digital Front Panel £440
Liminal Dress with Digital Front Panel £440
“Metalic Cosmos” Organic Jersey Sweatshirt £280
“Metalic Cosmos” Organic Jersey Sweatshirt £280
Stripe Scarf 100% Wool £210
Stripe Scarf 100% Wool £210
Liminal Scarf 100% Wool £210
Liminal Scarf 100% Wool £210

 

Despite her roots being firmly in the UK, Kelly Shaw took her FW15 collection to present in Paris, why you might ask?  Well the answer to that is an interesting one and requires some background….

Producing a collection costs money.  Lots of it.  The biggest issue for a young designer fresh to the fold is having the cashflow to meet the level of supply and demand for their current collection, but to also fund the next collection and be able to present it to the masses.  This is something Shaw knows only too well and after taking to the streets during London Fashion Week SS15 in September 2014 with the Occupy movement to protest against the fashion industry’s lack of support for British designers showing at London Fashion Week, Shaw set up a crowd funding project in order to present her FW15 main line collection offering up personal notes, collection pieces, drawings and whatever she could to those who contributed in order to draw attention and backing for the project, and it worked.  Shaw raised the full capital amount required to show her collection during arguably the most prolific event of Fashion Month; Paris Fashion Week.

Fast forward to March 2015 and Kelly Shaw has packed up her collection and her team and travelled to Paris to show her collection at Tapis Rouge, an amazing venue in the centre of Paris steeped in history and a fantastic place to present a fashion collection.  Shaw’s star is rising and Paris may just send her stellar, Kanye West was spotted browsing and as we know, anything Kanye gives the seal of approval has a tendency to skyrocket.

If you’re a fan of British design and British fashion this is one designer you should back; Kelly Shaw has real talent, with a knack for knockout simplicity and a “fuck you” attitude to conforming, Shaw is not afraid to push the boundaries or to challenge proportions.  Edgar Allen Poe once said “There is no exquisite beauty without some strangeness in the proportion” and Shaw’s designs are the very definition of this, with each collection she comes more into her own and with The Liminal Journey I think she’s found her niche.

Prices for the Kelly Shaw London FW15 collection start at a very reasonable £65 for a slogan tee up to £550 for an evening dress and that divine British mohair coat that so many of you have asked about is £1200.

Fashion Voyeur and Kelly Shaw London have teamed up to offer readers a fantastic 20% discount on pieces from the FW15 collection if ordered before March 30th 2015.  This is an exclusive offer not available anywhere else and the collection is not currently available to purchase so you’ll be amongst the first to get your hands on it when it drops in August 2015 for the FW15 season. 

To order at the discounted price simply:

  1. Browse the full collection in the gallery at the bottom of the post
  2. Choose your favourite piece(s)
  3. Email kelly@kellyshaw.co.uk to place your order quoting Fashion Voyeur for your exclusive 20% discount
  4. Sit back and gloat knowing you’re amongst the first to pre-order the Kelly Shaw London FW15 collection and that you got it at a knockout price

Top of my shopping list from this collection:

Grey Wool Dress £385
Grey Wool Dress £385
“Living The Dream” Unisex Screen Printed Sweatshirt £120
“Living The Dream” Unisex Screen Printed Sweatshirt £120
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Printed Silk Top £240
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Printed Silk Top £240
British Mohair Tartan Coat with Patch Pocket Detail £1200
British Mohair Tartan Coat with Patch Pocket Detail £1200

 

I absolutely have to have the grey Cloud type dress, (I feel that it will improve my life exponentially & it absolutely will as I’ve already ordered it) and the oversized slogan sweat speaks for itself.  The trend for co-ord dressing shows no signs of abating and this two piece with the mix of print and proportion is absolute perfection.  Lastly the British mohair coat, just look at it, it’s a thing of beauty and in the midst of a British Winter we all need something beautiful!

To find out more visit www.kellyshaw.co.uk, the FW15 collection will be available from August 2015 via the Young British Designers website at: http://www.youngbritishdesigners.com/designers/arising/kelly-shaw/ or you can currently shop the SS15 collection via the same website.

Here’s the full Liminal Journey collection, pick out your favourite pieces, take advantage of the fantastic discount offer, and circle August in your diaries.

Pixie x

Want to engage with Kelly Shaw London on social media?

Twitter: https://twitter.com/kellyshawlondon

FaceBook: https://www.facebook.com/kellyshawlondon

“Living The Dream” Unisex Screen Printed Sweatshirt £120
“Living The Dream” Unisex Screen Printed Sweatshirt £120
Slogan Tee £65 & Berry Red Wool Shorts £240
Slogan Tee £65 & Berry Red Wool Shorts £240
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Slogan Tee £65
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Slogan Tee £65
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Printed Silk Top £240
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Printed Silk Top £240
Berry Red Wool Shorts £240
Berry Red Wool Shorts £240
Linda Smock with Open Back £349
Linda Smock with Open Back £349
Linda Smock with Open Back £349
Linda Smock with Open Back £349
“Metalic Cosmos” Organic Jersey Sweatshirt £280
“Metalic Cosmos” Organic Jersey Sweatshirt £280
White Dolly Shirt with Concealed Placket £190 & Wool Skirt with Multi Twist Panel Detailing £420
White Dolly Shirt with Concealed Placket £190 & Wool Skirt with Multi Twist Panel Detailing £420
Emma Trapeze Dress with Raw Edge Hem Detail £520
Emma Trapeze Dress with Raw Edge Hem Detail £520
Marianne Layered Dress with Bias Cut Paneling and Raw Edge Hem Detail £550
Marianne Layered Dress with Bias Cut Paneling and Raw Edge Hem Detail £550
Wool Dress with Multi Twist Panel Detailing £899
Wool Dress with Multi Twist Panel Detailing £899
Kirsty Trapeze Dress with Square Hem Panel Detail £325
Kirsty Trapeze Dress with Square Hem Panel Detail £325
Liminal Dress with Digital Front Panel £440
Liminal Dress with Digital Front Panel £440
British Mohair Tartan Coat with Patch Pocket Detail £1200
British Mohair Tartan Coat with Patch Pocket Detail £1200
Julia Wool Shift Dress £399 & Liminal Scarf £210
Julia Wool Shift Dress £399 & Liminal Scarf £210
Julia Wool Shift Dress £399
Julia Wool Shift Dress £399
Grey Wool Dress £385
Grey Wool Dress £385
Roberta Swing Cotton Dress £299
Roberta Swing Cotton Dress £299
Metallic Cosmos Shift Dress £425
Metallic Cosmos Shift Dress £425

Pixie Tenenbaum 2023

Pixie Tenenbaum 2023

People will stare, make it worth their while

Pixie Tenenbaum

FASHION VOYEUR

Freelance Fashion and Beauty Writer
Currently taking review slots
Hire Me: pixie.tenenbaum@gmail.com

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Freelance Journo, Copywriter/Editor with EDS I write about fashion, lifestyle & beauty, & sometimes other stuff. ex-NHS https://t.co/GaeU4EHkOy

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