Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: Fashion, North East, Uncategorized

What I Wore: To the Duke Ata Clubhouse Launch

Voyeurs, this event has been a long time coming.

A good friend of mine, and one of my most favourite people in the whole world, has finally opened his bespoke menswear studio: The Duke Ata Clubhouse.  I can’t tell you how many times Duke and I have sat down to discuss plans for creating the most perfect launch event, all culminating in a home for his made to measure tailoring business, Duke Ata Bespoke.  You’ve heard me talking about Duke, we affectionately refer to each other as “my favourite” and I kind of feel like if you were to assign someone with the title of my Work Husband, Duke would be the proud bearer of this title.  Suffice to say, we’re good mates.

When Duke called me to first berate me for not keeping in touch over the past two months, and then tell me that he’d found the best location for his new studio I was psyched.  Well, less so about being bollocked for being a shit friend but the bit about the studio rocked my world because he’s been searching for what feels like forever.  As Duke and his awesome team knuckled down and got to work refining the space and creating somewhere that would feel like a real escape, I got to searching for the perfect outfit.

Duke specialises in mens tailoring, in a similar vein to Joshua Kane (without the dramatics) Duke’s work is classic, distinguished and instantly recognisable.  From the cut, to the finishing details, he’s a perfectionist and if you’ve never met this dude, he’s like a slicker, more tidy version of Andre 3000, he plays football on a weekend – I’m positive he does it in a suit.

An image of Blogger Pixie Tenenbaum wearing vintage Dieter Heupel from Trendlistr at the launch of the Duke Ata Bespoke Clubhouse in Jesmond

So, back to my outfit, when my invite landed I knew I couldn’t rock up in my usual scruffy chic and by total chance, found this vintage Dieter Heupel tailored jacket at vintage hotspot Trendlistr.  The fit is perfect and the cut is clean, it’s not my usual neckline as I usually avoid anything with a deep V, or anything that exposes my chest but the print is just too good to not wear it.  I opted to wear it as a solo piece with a black cage bra underneath to max out on that perfect fit.  As the jacket is midnight blue with varying shades of blue throughout, I paired it with a midnight blue velvet sock boot and some polished latex trousers from a fetish store in Soho.

With my pink hair and signature MAC Heroine lip, I’m chalking this up as a pretty awesome lewk.  High five, air punch emoji, winky face.

Pixie x

Categories: Fashion, Uncategorized

APU JAN SS18 at London Fashion Week

Taking inspiration from the short lives of flowers, Apu Jan presented Before the Last Petal Falls for Spring Summer 2018 at London Fashion Week.  In this collection of 33 garments, Jan uses bursts of colour and texture variation to freeze their explosive beauty and capture the sensation of urgency in their short but fragrant life.  The collection pays homage to O Henry’s ‘The Last Leaf’ and echoes the theme of Edgar Allen Poe’s ‘The Fall of the House of Usher’.  It was also the first show of the SS18 season that saw Freemason’s Hall open up the Grand Temple – something that rarely happens during London Fashion Week and an absolutely unbelievable spectacle when it does.

‘Before the last petal fell, I remembered there was a garden in full blossom ;

Before the last leaf faded, I remembered there was a forest full of green ;

The last snowflake, the last sand grain, the last teardrop…

Nothing gold can stay.

So let me cast a spell for you, it’s necessary to freeze the beauty of flowers, it’s necessary to freeze the fragrance of coffee, and it’s necessary to freeze the fragrance of our youth…’

Using pattern to emote throughout the collection, ‘Before the Last Petal Falls’ takes us on a fantasy journey.  With motifs and patterns including blooming and fallen petals, leaves, trees, snow, ink, and manuscripts, the components play to the theme and the brands core elements of storybooks and fantasy beasts are evident throughout the collection.

The SS18 collection from Apu Jan features more of the designer’s trademark silk knitting which stands out in texture, Jan uses a self developed blend of jacquard and chiffon and varies between machine and hand knitting to create that signature and inimitable mix of chunky and uber fine texture all within the same garment – perfect for the intended season.

Strong oriental influences ring through this collection; mandarin collars, horse-hoof cuffs and 6/8 wide leg trousers with a wide set pinstripe set up the core shapes for a neutral palette of grey, black, white and grey with the occasional dancing pink petal dancing across the landscape.  Towards the finale we saw drop waist and empire line dresses with structured cape detailing imitating orchid type silhouettes and depicting the last stages of life of the flower, and burnout dresses with flute sleeves with a hint of Victoriana.  The standout piece in the collection was a grey dress with a structured capelet that drew gasps from the press as it floated through the temple.

Apu Jan is a master craftsman when it comes to working with printed satin; taking the finest print details and working them into a pattern only determinable at close range, which from afar creates additional texture and shape despite having been crafted in the lightest fabrics.

The show was set to the beat of DJ QuestionMark and a live orchestra, something that’s been lost in time over the seasons at London Fashion Week and something which created a real atmosphere on the day.  I don’t know whether it was the design talent, the live music or being seduced by the Grand Temple but this was one collection that piqued my interest Voyeurs…..

Pixie x

Categories: Fashion, Models, Uncategorized

Joshua Kane Presents Fantasy for SS18 at London Fashion Week

If there’s one designer who doesn’t conform to the standards set out in fashion, it’s Joshua Kane.  Daring to be different in a sea of over familiar runway shows, Kane stands out by shunning the norm and producing his own show in its entirety, away from the on and off schedule venues packed out during London Fashion Week.  Known as “The People’s Designer”, Oxford born Joshua Kane has brought fashion to the masses by opening up his epic runway shows to the public.  In an unprecedented move by the designer, members of the public have been given the chance to rub shoulders with the glitterati of the fashion industry and a few devoted celebrities and fans of the British born tailor.

That one broken light has upset me greatly…

Kane favours The London Palladium as his showcase venue and when you see his branding and the associated collection, it’s plain to see that the two are a perfect match.  With his eclectic look and uber tailored style, Kane sets the standard for what is forthcoming in his show.  Like Barney Stinson, Kane is never pictured without his suit and a wide brimmed hat, and his insanely beautiful girlfriend and sidekick Francesca is never far from his side.

For Spring Summer 2018 Kane teased us with his self directed three part short film titled Fantasy, to accompany and tell the unfolding story of the collection starring Asa Butterfield.  Kane’s second outing at The London Palladium is where fashion meets romance with strong undercurrents of regal glamour.  Models walked out on to an elaborate stage set, through gates out into the audience giving a close up look at the craftsmanship as they strode through the aisles.

Rich heritage tweeds and silks in a colour palette mostly bade up of black, red and cornflower blue dominated the collection, which also announced Kane’s foray into the accessories market.  Models carried handbags from Kane’s debut accessory line and a range of pocket squares and ties were showcased with strong tailored looks.  The brand is filled with drama, from the unexpected sharp lines in feminine tailoring, to the trousers that stop at that perfect 8/8 line making them wearable with any shoe or boot.

Casting for the show couldn’t have been more on point; models with mullets and chiselled features stormed the makeshift runway, posing a contrast between the sharp cuts and feminine fabrics and patterns.

Kane’s use of leather in both structured biker jackets in black and vibrant pink, as well as in the looser trench variety, was new for SS18 and a welcome addition for the season showcasing Kane’s talent and ability to tailor harsher fabrics.  A whole variety of shapes and finishes for SS18 unveiled a new side to “The People’s Designer” and his rich portfolio continues to expand.  Starting with a solid menswear foundation Kane moved to introduce women’s tailoring, swiftly followed with this range of accessories, handbags and even skateboard decks.

I’m really looking forward to seeing how Joshua Kane develops his career, whatever comes next from “The People’s Designer”, I can’t help but think it’s going to be worth the wait.

Pixie xo

Categories: Fashion, North East, Uncategorized

Menswear Fit for a Duke

When it comes to menswear things can get a little tricky, sure it looks simple enough for a fashionista looking in but when it comes to dressing men, silhouette is key as everything is loosely based on one main aesthetic – a trouser paired with a top.

With the emergence of more and more menswear design talent through LC:M and NYFW Mens, the options for male dressing are widening however these groundbreaking shows are more about pushing boundaries than setting seasonal trends.  As much as Men’s Fashion Month is an major event in the fashion calendar, it mostly gives me inspo for my own wardrobe.

We all know that Fashionista’s move in tribes.  The key difference is that men often aren’t aware of the theory of fashion tribes, or of which tribe they fall into; whether they’re a Classic Aesthetic (jeans and tee), Sports Luxe (relaxed fit jeans / sweatpants, sports tee & sneakers), Wide Boy (skinny sweats & vest) or Urban Gentleman (tailoring with all the trimmings), it’s not usually a conscious decision.  Whether aware of it are not, men are unwittingly influenced by fashion.

You’ve seen The Devil Wears Prada, you know the theory behind the cerulean blue sweater – in a nutshell, every purchase you make on the highstreet, every throwaway notion or bargain bin selection, is directly influenced by the elite runway shows at the top of the chain.  Fashion is everywhere and influences most of your day to day decisions around clothing, makeup, accessories and shoes, right through to the way you style your home.

If you’re a guy who naturally favours suiting and consider a pocket square to be the ultimate accessory, then congratulations!  You fall into the Urban Gentleman tribe, (and there are definitely a few of you out there who follow me), it’s likely that you already know that tailoring is your best friend.  The high street can work with tailoring to a certain extent but the clue is in the name people, tailoring only achieves its MO if it’s made to fit.  Yes, I get that budget is a huge factor and can recommend some off the rack retailers for tailoring but trust me, going made to measure will change your life.

Step forward Duke Ata Bespoke.  Duke’s self titled label focuses on luxury, made to fit, with all the trappings of a modern, urban gentleman.  Everything Duke produces has flair, from the signature wide lapels and polka dots to the wide shouldered cut of his jackets, a Duke Ata Bespoke piece is recognisable by its artistry.

With a background in Blogging, Duke’s knowledge of menswear in particular led him on an eerily similar journey to mine.  Styling wedding guests and curating wardrobe overhauls for years gave him a clear idea of pieces that would work for clients.  It wasn’t long before Duke turned his hand to design himself, and ultimately, tailoring.   Inspired by classic elegance, the gentleman’s silhouette and the craftsmanship of Savile Row, Duke has developed a peculiar and recognisable style which has been forged into the Duke Ata brand.

His first collection – Vol.1 – sees classic tailoring married with an urban twist.  Duke has a penchant for unusual fabrics and is super particular about the quality, threadcount and finish – I can say that, we’re friends – basically, if it’s not perfect, it’s not Duke Ata.

The fitting service offered by Duke Ata Bespoke is a step above tailoring.  A tailor will take an existing suit model and make it fit the client (think Tim Gunn in How I Met Your Mother), with a bespoke service fabric selection, shape, cut and fit are all handcrafted to the needs and expectations of the client.  It’s a different ball game.  The cost is high, but then that’s not news.  For anyone considering something bespoke there’s a price to pay, but business is booming.

Duke’s clients tell me that there’s nothing like the feeling of putting on a Duke Ata Bespoke suit, it’s like The Emporer’s New Clothes, they fit so well that you feel like you’re wearing nothing, but you just know you look awesome.

You’ll recognise his aesthetic too, Duke recently dressed footballer Jamie O’Hara for his Celebrity Big Brother 2017 entrance, and Body Fixers Dr Esho only wears Duke Ata Bespoke.  Natty credentials indeed.  Duke doesn’t shout from the rooftops about his brand, he’s quietly confident.  Charismatic and charming, it’s no wonder his clients are fiercely loyal.

With a series of low key, invite only events around his home town of Newcastle, he let’s the pieces he creates do the talking and is quietly building momentum in both the North and in London where he takes regular fitting appointments.  When we discuss the theory of fashion tribes he agrees with me saying “I know my tribe, I stay in my lane.  I don’t try to force tailoring on to people it won’t work for, I’m particular about my clients.”  With bespoke tailoring on the rise and Tom Ford recently stating “My suit is my uniform, I feel weak in trainers”, it’s an aesthetic that more and more men (and women) are aspiring to.  Well Voyeurs, it just got a little more accessible to the Urban Gentlemen of the North East – you know who you are.

Pixie xo

For appointments email appointments@dukeata.com

Follow @pixietenenbaum