Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: Fashion

What I Wore: Gunne Sax Prairie Dress

When it comes to searching for vintage clothing you most likely have your favourite eras.  Whether it’s the swinging sixties, the flamboyant eighties or the prohibition era – there’s something out there that makes everyones heart flutter.  For me it’s the prairie dress.  Obviously you know this already because I’m always swanning around in them but there are a few different houses and designers who were particularly fantastic at creating the perfect prairie dress.  Roberta and Gunne Sax were two of them who set the bar for the likes of Batsheva and The Vampire’s Wife in 2018 and 19.

Recently I asked a vintage seller I know to help me find an original Gunne Sax dress, a pre-McClintock Gunne Sax with a billowing, layered skirt and a high neck.  Thinking this was an impossible task – she came up trumps with the most beautiful dusky pink dress from the archives.  Ever.  How she managed to track it down I’ll never know.

Gunne Sax is expensive.  For vintage.  It’s not as expensive as regular old high street and it’s still a sustainable option.  They’re very hard to come by and the sizing is tricky to get the hang of as it works from 1-11 rather than 0-whatever and it’s loosely based on the US sizing system.  Gunne Sax sizes are real small but once you find your groove with them they’re absolute keepers.

This one is better than anything I ever could have imagined from a commission, when you ask someone to find something for you you never know what might turn up but this is like something that got up and waltzed off the set of a period drama straight into my wardrobe.

The high street might have jumped on the prairie dress trend, but damn, they really don’t make ’em like this any more!

Pixie

Categories: Fashion, North East, Uncategorized

Finding Your feet with Vintage

Vintage clothing is perceived as a bit of an acquired taste, it’s something people seem to either really love, or think they’ll hate.  I’m here to tell you that vintage can be for everyone, you just have to look past that idea that it’s musty, smelly old clothes that was once worn by old ladies surrounded by cats.  For an item to qualify as vintage it must be over 20 years old, meaning that clothing from the 90’s is now officially classified as vintage.  All those Kookai and Morgan de Toi pieces you saved your pocket money to buy are now collectors items and worth a pretty penny.

There are many reasons that the revival of clothes from decades gone by is such a popular choice in fashion right now:

  1. You’re guaranteed to get something unique.  You’ll find something that will make you stand out from the crowd, providing you know where to look to source really great vintage.
  2. You’re promoting sustainable and revived fashion.  By giving a garment new life, re-using, re-working and re-loving something, you’re helping to prevent waste and are part of the cause against fast fashion and sweat shop produced fashion.
  3. You support a small business.  It’s no mean feat trying to source good quality vintage clothing, someone has spent time, money and effort searching for those pieces.
  4. You’re making a statement.  You’re saying that you don’t need mass produced high street clothing in your wardrobe for every day of the week.
  5. It’s a great way to experiment with fashion from different eras, vintage can be affordable, contrary to popular belief, and you won’t bump into anyone else wearing the same piece

How do you source good vintage clothing?

It’s hard to find good quality vintage clothing these days, and with the 90’s revival maintaining pace, stock is at a premium.  Vintage fairs are a great place to start, Britain Does Vintage and Judy’s Affordable Vintage Fair have seasonal pop ups all over the country and invite the best retailers from the surrounding areas to sell their stock.  The great thing about vintage fairs is that they sell way more than just clothing, you’ll find hats, accessories and tea sets perfect for serving gin, prohibition style, amongst the treasures on offer.  If I’m looking for jewellery, trinkets or era specific clothing, I head to Clerkenwell Vintage Fair which runs seasonally at Freemason’s Hall in Holborn, London.

Vintage stores are more tricky, in the North East we have Trendlistr studio (who also sell online via their website) in uber cool Commercial Union House.  The fuschia pink studio creeps with ivy on the outside and inside is a wonder emporium like no other.  Selling high quality vintage clothing, shoes and accessories sourced from all over the world, owner Louisa tells me that the best vintage clothing comes from France.  Whether it’s a particular Hermes scarf, Miu Miu shoes or just a printed shift dress, you’ll find it at Trendlistr.  In fact, I don’t think I’ve ever visited and not bought something, it has the highest concentration of great quality vintage pieces in one place that I’ve ever come across.

I was actually recently asked to collaborate with Trendlistr and shoot a selection of Summer stock for the website including an awesome Beverly Goldberg-esque jumpsuit that I’m kicking myself for not buying.  You’ll be able to see the images pretty soon, but for now here’s a few I took behind the scenes.

For a more youthful vibe It Girls Vintage in the North East offers re-worked pieces and lots of denim in different shapes and cuts.  Those Mom jeans you’re buying for £40 in Topshop are great, but you could find some 80’s and 90’s originals at It Girls.

Online; try eBay but approach with caution, it’s filled with sellers who use the term ‘vintage’ very loosely so make sure you read everything, check the pictures and if you’re still not sure, then ask questions!  Some sellers will call something vintage, when they mean vintage style or retro which are very, very different.

What should I look for?

Literally anything that catches your eye!  The beauty of vintage is that whilst it doesn’t run to a specific trend, you often find that some pieces have come full circle and are fashionable again.  I recently scoured the high street for a double breasted checked jacket in the style of one Margot Robbie was snapped wearing, after three weeks of turning up shit quality pieces online and in-store, I found an awesome vintage piece that fit the bill perfectly.

Think outside the box, I have a vintage wedding dress that’s just quirky enough to pass for formal wear and recently I sourced an amazing floor length velvet gown that looks like it was shipped straight from the set of a Florence and the Machine promo.  With vintage clothing you can be more daring, you can push the envelope and achieve more than you can with high street pieces alone.  For Fashion Month I always try to source new and interesting vintage pieces for my collection so that I can guarantee I won’t bump into someone wearing the same thing.  So many times I’ve seen women wearing the same clothes and shoes sat just a few spaces apart on the Frow – talk about a glitch in the matrix.

Pixie xo

Categories: Fashion, North East, Uncategorized

What I Wore: To the Duke Ata Clubhouse Launch

Voyeurs, this event has been a long time coming.

A good friend of mine, and one of my most favourite people in the whole world, has finally opened his bespoke menswear studio: The Duke Ata Clubhouse.  I can’t tell you how many times Duke and I have sat down to discuss plans for creating the most perfect launch event, all culminating in a home for his made to measure tailoring business, Duke Ata Bespoke.  You’ve heard me talking about Duke, we affectionately refer to each other as “my favourite” and I kind of feel like if you were to assign someone with the title of my Work Husband, Duke would be the proud bearer of this title.  Suffice to say, we’re good mates.

When Duke called me to first berate me for not keeping in touch over the past two months, and then tell me that he’d found the best location for his new studio I was psyched.  Well, less so about being bollocked for being a shit friend but the bit about the studio rocked my world because he’s been searching for what feels like forever.  As Duke and his awesome team knuckled down and got to work refining the space and creating somewhere that would feel like a real escape, I got to searching for the perfect outfit.

Duke specialises in mens tailoring, in a similar vein to Joshua Kane (without the dramatics) Duke’s work is classic, distinguished and instantly recognisable.  From the cut, to the finishing details, he’s a perfectionist and if you’ve never met this dude, he’s like a slicker, more tidy version of Andre 3000, he plays football on a weekend – I’m positive he does it in a suit.

An image of Blogger Pixie Tenenbaum wearing vintage Dieter Heupel from Trendlistr at the launch of the Duke Ata Bespoke Clubhouse in Jesmond

So, back to my outfit, when my invite landed I knew I couldn’t rock up in my usual scruffy chic and by total chance, found this vintage Dieter Heupel tailored jacket at vintage hotspot Trendlistr.  The fit is perfect and the cut is clean, it’s not my usual neckline as I usually avoid anything with a deep V, or anything that exposes my chest but the print is just too good to not wear it.  I opted to wear it as a solo piece with a black cage bra underneath to max out on that perfect fit.  As the jacket is midnight blue with varying shades of blue throughout, I paired it with a midnight blue velvet sock boot and some polished latex trousers from a fetish store in Soho.

With my pink hair and signature MAC Heroine lip, I’m chalking this up as a pretty awesome lewk.  High five, air punch emoji, winky face.

Pixie x

Categories: Fashion, North East

Glitz & Glamour with Meridith Towne at Q Festival

Gateshead’s inaugural Q Festival is well underway, taking place in a traditional spiegeltent structure that’s been erected right in front of The Baltic on the Gateshead side of the Milennium bridge, perfectly positioned for some epic photographs of some of the best North East landmarks

The timetable for the festival is brimming with awesome and unusual activities for the whole family to enjoy and I was invited along to a fun fashion session called Glitz and Glamour with Costume Historian Meredith Towne.  Admittedly I didn’t know a lot about what to expect from the session or what it might entail, but as a fellow Fashion Historian, I was definitely intrigued.

 

I arrived ahead of schedule to get my first proper look at the spiegeltent and true to Deutsch tradition, it was a solid structure with mirrors all around the outside.  Guests were treated to a popup shop from vintage reseller Trendlistr and crafty goodies from The Crafthood.  One thing it’s worth telling you early on is that the light in the spiegeltent was geared up for a performance so not that great for taking photographs, hence the poor quality of my images.  Bloody bollocks.

Costume Historian and Dressmaker Meridith Towne took to the stage in a 1920’s style dressing gown with her hair pinned in low rolls and from the moment she first spoke I was riveted.  Speaking eloquently and confidently about fashion through the decades in a way that demonstrated not only the fashion that you would typically see, but also the circumstances and social and financial climates.

Towne’s collection of original vintage and hand made gowns is impressive to say the least.  Personally collected, found, and rescued, her vintage wardrobe includes beautiful original pieces such as Juliette caps, flapper dresses and original stilettos (by their intended and true definition).  Towne offers the audience a chance to get up close and personal with the collection at the interval answering questions and making tongue in cheek jokes about her charismatic “glamorous assistant” who doubles up as her mum.

We’re guided through each decade from the 1920’s to the 1970’s with precision, detail and even a little audience participation with Towne’s signature panache.  It’s hard to describe just how incredible this ‘show’ is because I don’t really know how to categorise it.  Somewhere between a talk, a history lesson, a performance and a play, it hits the spot when it comes to getting an insight into how fashion was used to express femininity throughout time and you definitely leave feeling like you learned something, albeit in a super fun way.

From the rebellion of the 1920’s to the end of rationing in 1947 and into the 50’s, Towne’s Glitz and Glamour show includes every major fashion trend synonymous with the decade it appeared in and even a few more.  As a speaker she’s fantastic, engaging from start to finish and very well informed, her ability to pull together a complete, era specific outfit is astounding and the part she plays when on stage only serves to add artistic flair and aids delivery superbly.

I was kindly gifted to tickets to the event because the organiser thought it was right up my street and she wasn’t wrong.  With a face value of £15 per ticket, if you’re a fan of fashion, whether vintage or modern, it’s well worth that and I’ll definitely be looking out for the next in Towne’s series of shows on vintage fashion.

Towne tours the U.K. With History Wardrobe delivering ‘shows’ on a range of topics within the vintage fashion genre including The Art of Power Dressing, 100 Years of Hats, Victorian Lady Cyclists, A History of Shapewear and lots more.  If she’s coming to a town near you then buy a ticket Voyeurs, I promise you you won’t be disappointed, this was one of the best events I’ve been to in a while.

Pixie xo

Categories: Fashion, North East, Uncategorized

Trendlistr Curated Vintage Popup Shop

You all know that I have my own unique style when it comes to occasion dressing but I also have a bit of a penchant for vintage, as long as it’s good vintage; and that’s the trouble with buying preloved clothing, you never know if it’s any good.

When it comes to styling and dressing, I know exactly what I want.  That in itself can be a problem because sometimes the thing that I want doesn’t actually exist, that’s why I hack sleeves off tees, add in fabric and draw on clothing – I like to look unique. Buying vintage is great because it allows you to keep your individuality – you’re very unlikely to bump into someone wearing the same thing – and there are styles available that aren’t repeated on today’s high street.

One of the tricky things about buying vintage, is that you never know if what you’re buying is ‘good’ vintage, genuine or what it’s history is and that’s the risk you take.  Sure vintage fairs are great, (my absolute favourite, Britain Does Vintage, tours the U.K. seasonally and makes three stops across the North East) but if you’re that person who really doesn’t know what they’re looking for then Trendlistr might be the solution you didn’t know you needed.

Ok, so first you have to establish that you’re interested in vintage clothing, if you’re not, then maybe I can convince you.  Cuts, quality and sizing is different (vanity sizing didn’t exist back then) in vintage clothing, with a focus on quality over quantity, things weren’t sold in high volume so if you find a piece you love, buy it, keep it and cherish it.  Good designer vintage in decent condition retains its shape and its value pretty well on this day and age, with some rare pieces (Hermes Kelly anyone?) increasing in value.

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Louisa Rogers and I have been following each other for some time now and last night we finally met in person at her Curated Vintage Popup Shop in House of Smith.  Louisa spotted a gaping hole in the market for a Curated vintage service that links up clients like you and I, with vintage pieces which have been sourced, checked and verified.  This was the inspiration that led her to start setting up her business Trendlistr.

Louisa is super passionate about vintage clothing, but it has to be as close to perfect as it can be to pass her vigourous testing.  Sourcing from all over the world, she’s built up quite a collection of eclectic pieces and had a small selection of clothing and jewellery on show at her popup.

Trendlistr will operate in a similar way to eBay which offers a marketplace for third party sellers to showcase their vintage items, minus the auction.  Louisa tells me she has aspirations for it to become the ‘ASOS of vintage’ and she has faith in her brand.  She talks about the importance of getting it right first time and is currently in the process of photographing and cataloging the collection ready for the website going live.

I scoured the collection last night and scavenged a preppy zip through Roberto Verino dress and a Moschino tank – picked for me by Louisa herself as she says she’s clocked my style and thinks it’s very me, she’s not wrong.  Amongst the collection I found a pair of very on trend midnight blue velvet Yves Saint Laurent cigarette pants and a flower camo Salvatore Ferragamo pencil skirt, sadly neither were my size. Boo!

Is Curated vintage worth it? Yes, if you’re interested in vintage then it takes all the hard work out of finding really great quality preowned clothing.  If you want to try vintage but don’t know where to start, then Curated vintage is your gateway drug, but be careful, it’s addictive.

I’ll always visit vintage fairs there’s no doubt about that, but Trendlistr offers a third dimension, a way to source items in a particular size, colour or style.  A way to request dealers to look for a particular item when they’re out topping up their hauls, rather than just shopping off the rack.

When Trendlistr goes live in early 2017 I’m predicting a vintage revival of sorts….

Pixie xo