After a rough start to day one of London Fashion Week, I hit the ground running, albeit a few steps behind, with the multi-designer Ones To Watch show for SS18. The Ones To Watch show seeks to raise the profile of emerging talent globally and the rostered designers are selected from a long list of emerging designers by a panel of industry experts. It’s a must see show every season and if you’re an LFW regular, then you can guarantee that you’ll see these names cropping up further down the line. They’re selected on a number of criteria and the resulting showcase is always a very interesting show.
“THE ONES TO WATCH SHOW IS THE PERFECT LAUNCH PAD FOR TALENTED NEW DESIGNERS. THIS SEASON’S FOUR DESIGNERS PRESENT COMPLETELY DIFFERENT VISIONS OF THE FUTURE OF FASHION. THIS IS THE SUCCESS OF ONES TO WATCH AND WHY IT IS SO POPULAR.” MARTYN ROBERTS, FASHION SCOUT
The Ones To Watch show for the LFW SS18 season featured four strong designers, each with a different focus and style, I was already flustered on arrival after having to hot foot it from Kings Cross but a coffee and a chat with the lovely Donna Air fixed all of that and set me up for a pretty decent show.
NEO DESIGN
With a palette of black, black and even more black, this almost gender neutral collection cast a stark contrast against the all white show space. The brand was born out of a graduate project and focusses on the manufacture of the garments as much as the appearance of the final product. This SS18 collection connected the past with the future with a range made for modern warriors. Leather, quilting and rope combined in the deepest shades of noir to give an untouchable aesthetic making the wearer a force to be reckoned with. A collection designed to give the illusion of power and one that certainly succeeds.
JI WON CHOI
Ji Won Choi’s collection is one of vibrant colour with an underlying message. The collection, entitled Excessivism, highlights the waste in our closets today. Swathes of fabric cover the models bodies with exaggerated graphic lines, cuts and strapping. Ji Won Choi is a designer defying the traditional fashion calendar by showing a seasonless collection, seeking to shift the focus to sustainability over fast fashion.
Bright, playful and clever with elements of wearability. The message to society is strong with this one…
TRIINU PUNGITS
Pungits is an experienced designer with 13 years of design experience under her sequinned belt. Normally I’m a fan of her work, a champion of self expression and freedom, her prints are to die for. This latest collection for me was underwhelming. Yes, sure there was the whole novelty foam hands thing but it wasn’t consistent enough throughout the collection to be something to sit up and take notice of and felt like it had been added for drama.
I loved the geometric lines, printed leotards and added red heart feature but the whole thing felt a little disjointed for me, especially after the success of SS17 and a meaningful and satisfying collection. Interesting sure, but more filler than killer for me I’m afraid. Soz Pungits.
STARSICA
Talk about going out on a high, Starsica SS18 rocked my world and gave Day 1 of LFW an injection of youth and vibrance with that all important wearability factor. Taking it’s name from the term Star Seeker, depicting a wise man forecasting the movement of the stars and therefore predicting the future, Starsica represents the concept of ‘Everyday luxury wear with the anxiety of modern society’ and it gets it right on point.
Simple shapes and cut out detailing at pivot points gave a youthful edge to the collection and rolled head torches gave a nod to the explorer vibe hinted at in the brand name. I loved this collection and there’s a space in my wardrobe for that gorgeous human heart sweater and Victoriana ruffle dress. Despite being a playful collection, Starsica never loses its elegance and stays just the right side of wearable. Definitely One to Watch.
Pixie xo