Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

Malan Breton FW18 at London Fashion Week

Malan Breton is known for putting on a spectacle of a show at London Fashion Week.  His shows are filled with gowns, drama and the occasional raciness and the audience is as interesting as the show itself.  For FW18 Breton’s Omega collection was something of a departure for the Asian designer’s self titled label and guests were treated to a show of calculated decadence rendered in a division between strength and seduction.

You’ll have to forgive my imagery for this show Voyeurs, Malan Breton is a show that is packed to the rafters and so seating is thin on the ground.  I was offered a third row seat but opted to stand closer to the back so I could get as decent a view of the collection, as I could of the opposite front row.  Seated opposite me were Fleur East, Rob Beckett and Romesh Ranganathan (if you know me IRL you’ll know that I’m a huge fan of Ranganathan and his solo show Asian Provocateur which saw his mum and young cousin steal just a little of his limelight).  Lindsay Lohan was tucked away at the opposite end and a few other big names that aren’t really as interesting as my TV husband Romesh Ranganathan.

Anyway, back to the show, you came for the fashion so let’s start with that.  Ok so my images aren’t so good but I wanted to include the show because it was so eclectic and unexpected.  There are a few designers who fall into the same bracket (Mimi Tran, Zeynep Kartal, Rohmir et al) and sometimes the impact of the look can become lost, this season Malan Breton broke out of that pack.

Malan Breton FW18 Fashion Scout London Fashion Week Fleur East, Rob beckett and Romesh Ranganathan on the front row

You’ll have most certainly seen Breton’s designs, they’re worn on the red carpet for premieres and award ceremonies all over the world so his Omega collection was something of a departure from the grand gowns we’re so familiar with.  The first look saw black silk tulle juxtaposed with leather to toughen the feminine silhouette.  If this was the opening gambit from Breton, then what was to follow would see each look explore femininity a little further until it reached the epitome of female empowerment and exploration with an S&M couture bride clad in black leather flanked by two stripped down male bridesmaids who held the cape flowing behind her.

Opening look at Malan Breton FW18

“This collection, has been a journey of self realisation, a point of gaining one’s hope back in humanity.  Rebuilding one’s shell, one’s armour, one’s heart.  Love lost, valour, and watching gluttony and greed change humanity for the worse.”  Malan Breton

The journey from opening look to closing look was one filled with chatter and frantic shoulder taps from the audience.  Brocade suits in shades of grey and opulent red topped with bow ties stood out from the collection and red was a commonality through the centrepieces – from full red organza gowns, to the flecks of detailing in chinoiserie inspired pieces.  Renowned for his theatricality and artistic flair, Breton delivered a collection with depth and soul, taking inspiration from Edwardian tarot, Merlin, Chinese astrology and the myth of the four horsemen of the apocalypse.  Put simply, I dig it.

The staging of the show was almost indicative of the leather clad finale, just as the delicate, intricate pieces in the first half of the show hinted at the softer side of femininity, the amber and red pieces hinted at the sudden darker twist ahead.

This was Malan Breton sexed up to the max in a dark and pleasing way whilst the designer remained true to his asian roots by using weaving, embroidery and surface dying throughout.  Strong and seductive, empowering and personal, this is surely Breton’s darkest and most personal collection to date and it’s nice to see him sticking with his technique of using recycled bottles to create irregular paillettes instead of shunning this for more modern and readily available techniques.

Malan Breton FW17

If Omega signifies the end of a journey to one’s clarity and self, then this is without a doubt the real Malan Breton laid bare.  One of my FW18 season highlights, but I guess you had to be there for the vibe.  Oh and I totally caught Romesh and Rob laughing at a model who lost her footing on the runway.  Busted.

Pixie

Malan Breton FW18 Fashion Scout London Fashion Week Romesh Ranganathan, Pixie Tenenbaum & Rob Beckett

 

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

Minki FW18 at London Fashion Week

Usually towards the end of London Fashion Week the schedule begins to slow down, by day four you find that the days get way easier as there are less shows to hop between.  Not so for FW18.  This season has been crazy in the best possible way.  Day five of show season started early with a runway show followed by a couple of presentations in designer led locations meaning I was out of 180 The Strand and off on an adventure.

The Minki FW18 presentation entitled ‘Who is the most sophisticated creator?’  was set in the Park Chinois which is a hop, skip and a jump from New Bond Street in Mayfair.  With it’s flower covered front and roaring open fire in the entrance, it’s a place that’s full of mystery and intrigue.  The presentation itself takes place down a spiral staircase where a selection of Chinese teas and dim sum available for show-goers to snack on and the dark, red lit, rich interior gives a hint of what’s in store.

The collection is a powerful exploration of gender and binary oppositions.  Minki incorporates feminine bijoux fastenings on mens oversized shirts to provide an oppositional force, the collection benefits from the addition and placement of real precious stones which have been used as raw brooches on coats.  Minki’s FW18 offering is a blend of opposing silhouettes that blend the traditional with the contemporary, heavy pleats in light tulle continue the oppositional trend throughout the collection and Minki plays with texture throughout – heavy quilted outerwear sits over fairy like dresses layered with soft, floaty tulles and voiles.

Minki FW18

Taffeta jackets are part quilted to resemble the reflections that can be seen in precious gem stones and it’s these rocks, minerals and gemstones that form the very foundations of Minki’s designs past and present.  Raw and fragile details such as stone snap buttons from Morocco are paired with heavier materials and shiny velvet trimmings, transparent PVC and furry mohair to create a juxtaposition of texture that works undeniably well throughout the collection.  The check / pleat combo is a personal favourite of mine and the masculine styling of the most feminine pieces is so current it hurts.  Kudos Minki, the FW18 presentation provided a well planned, thought provoking collection that seeks to explore the question: Who has been the most sophisticated creator, nature or man?

Pixie

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

SOE Jakarta FW18 at London Fashion Week

You all know my love of discovering emerging design talent and one of the best places to do just that is at Fashion Scout.  Scout plays host to some of London Fashion Week‘s blossoming new talent as well as some of the more well established names like Dr Pam Hogg, but one of the most exciting things to witness at Scout is a designer’s debut.

FW18 has seen a plethora of new designers take to the vestibule of Freemason’s Lodge, from Amy Thomson‘s whimsical childlike wonderland, to Kristel Kuslapuu’s knitwear protest, Fashion Scout has got it going on.  One of the most anticipates debuts was from designer Monique Soeriaatmadja and her label SOE Jakarta whose FW18 collection The Unexplored Woman, was inspired by the works, life and style of American artist Georgia O’Keeffe.  Inspired by Georgia’s exhibitions in London and Brooklyn, the designer was drawn to the juxtaposition between Georgia’s personal style and her art.  Her wardrobe consisted of androgynous black and white; something of a stark contrast to her wildly colourful floral paintings.

SOE Jakarta is by no means new on the fashion scene, whilst the label is new to Scout, SOE Jakarta is actually in its sixth season and was born out of a love affair with hand woven textile and classic, timeless style.  The brand is committed to reviving the art of weaving in Indonesia and mixes local artisan techniques with technical fabrics to produce a collection which is as beautiful as it is wearable.

The FW18 collection features handwoven denim made on traditional Indonesian Manual looms which makes SOE Jakarta the first brand to bring this technique to London.  The yarn is dyed using natural dye Kayu Tinggi to create warm tones of brown, khaki and sand, reminiscent of the decor and surroundings of O’Keeffe’s New Mexico home.

The look is doubtlessly androgynous, loose fit dresses, jackets, trousers, skirts and shirts dominate the collection in handwoven cotton, crisp poplin and silk organza are layered to create both fitted and oversized shapes which lean towards a strong masculine silhouette.  In contrast, feminine detailing is seen on cinched in waists and drawstring detailing.

Designer Monique Soeriaatmadja

If the Indonesian influence wasn’t obvious enough, the collection features Batik textile stamp printing in a motif derived from one of O’Keeffe’s blue period paintings entitled ‘Blue Nude’.  The combination of O’Keeffe’s love for blue tones and kimono style dresses sees SOE Jakarta translate this into a wonderfully modern oversized shirt dress featuring this very Batik textile print.

For a collection that has been concentrated on such a restricted colour palette, it’s one that has produced some of the most wearable looks of day four, the split front denim pinstriped pant suit and thick bustier jumpsuits layered over loose fit polo necks piqued my interest in terms of styling.  Definitely one to watch for future seasons.

Pixie

 

Categories: The Fashion Closet

Alexander White FW18 at London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week isn’t just about the garments, there’s also a whole host of millinery talent, accessory designers and footwear brands in amongst the other schedule fixtures.  On the final day of FW18 show season my schedule showed no signs of slowing down and right in the middle of my day I found myself at an awesome footwear presentation at the previous home of London Fashion Week, Somerset House.

Alexander White is a British luxury footwear brand offering timeless, elegant footwear combined with contemporary and playful silhouettes.  Each piece is designed in London and expertly handmade by skilled artisans in Florence.  The collections produced by Alexander White are inspired and influenced by White’s surroundings, from architecture to antique and vintage jewellery, and reinterpreted in a fresh and energetic way.

The Portico Rooms at Somerset House provide the perfect location for the FW18 Disco Cowboy presentation.  The huge windows mean that the room is flooded with natural light making the huge disco ball centrepiece, the most perfectly placed prop.  For his FW18 collection White found his inspiration in the southern regions of the US and it shows right through the Disco Cowboy collection.  The collection is very much a fusion of Studio 54 with its glamour and vibrancy, and Western staples including buckles and accent stitching.  Think glitter and wet look snakeskin, the collection features all of it.  With extra glitter.

Central to the collection is the most perfect pair of heeled cowboy boots covered in silver glitter, the very embodiment of the theme Disco Cowboy and probably what you’re likely to imagine in your head when you say the words.  White has incorporated Swarovski crystals, floral prints, glitter, velvet and satin to create a variety of textures and shapes throughout the collection.  Each silhouette has been planned and developed meticulously and White has expanded on his penchant for printing eye catching designs on to specchio leather to produce a collection that’s as worthy of a light up disco floor, as it is of a red carpet.

Alexander White FW18 Presentation London Fashion Week front view of presentation board

White is ahead of the curve when it comes to presenting fashion forward footwear.  His designs inspire a million lookalikes on the high street every season and if you think the shapes are familiar that’s because high street footwear giant Kurt Geiger have lifted several of White’s designs and respun them in seasons gone by.  Flattering yes, but also very naughty.

White’s A-list clients include Emma Watson, Alicia Vikander, Joan Smalls and Carey Mulligan amongst many others and although certainly not A-list, I’m thinking of adding myself to that list by starting with those side buckle glitter boots.

Pixie xo

Categories: The Archives, The Beauty Cupboard, The Fashion Closet

How I Switch Up My Look with SHOW DRY at London Fashion Week

When I travel to London Fashion Week I’m always working for the duration, that means I’m on duty for five full days and nights and in turn that results ins an overpacked suitcase that I usually need to sit on in order to close.  With that in mind, I need to meticulously plan every single item I take.  I plan two outfits per day, one for working shows and presentations, the other for partying on an evening.  Once I’ve done this, there’s little room for anything else.

I never, ever take any hair washing or styling equipment with me, not even so much as a hairbrush because space is precious and messy hair is cool.  So, how do I manage to stay looking awesome?  I always wash, tone and blowdry my hair the night before I travel, because I travel early, I get up and go, I don’t fiddle with it or restyle it, I literally get up and get out.  I wear that hair for the next three days, however it is when I wake up is how it is for the rest of the day, if it rains I might throw it up into a messy bun but I’m more likely to wear it messy topped off with a tifler.

Day three is where the magic happens.  I visit my favourite Notting Hill blowdry bar SHOW DRY who always look after me during Fashion Week and tend to my tresses.  They wash and prep my hair using products from the SHOW BEAUTY range (seriously, it’s worth it for the fragrance alone) and I usually opt for some sort of braid to keep my hair off my face and switch up my look for the remainder of the schedule.

Pixie Tenenbaum in the rain at London Fashion Week FW18

For the FW18 season day three brought with it hella bad weather.  The first day of bad weather for the whole of show season in fact, I’d been to the Paul Costelloe show that morning and been puddle dumped by a truck as I left The Waldorf Hotel so arrived at the salon in a fresh set of clothes but with gross and very wet hair.  After being greeted by Rihanna and given a bottle of San Pellegrino I felt decidedly less stressed.  She took me down to the back wash area downstairs which is dark shades of grey and black accented with gold, exactly like the bottles the SHOW BEAUTY products are so beautifully packaged inside.  We chatted about what sort of style I like, there have been some staffing changes at SHOW DRY so this is the first time Rihanna and I have met, I tell her that I’m an urban princess and “don’t want anything bridesmad-y or wedding guest-esque” she nods in agreement.

I usually plan exactly what I want in advance but this season’s schedule has been way too crazy to even remember my own name, so with that as her only brief, Rihanna gets to work blowdrying my over-processed hair.  To be totally honest, I pay little attention to what my Stylist does when i’m at SHOW DRY, I know I’m in good hands, the Notting Hill salon seems to just get it right without forcing their own opinions about what you should do with your hair.  For the duration of my appointment I sit and read the latest issue of Vogue on an iPad provided by the salon whilst they kindly charge my phone.

Engage Fembot mode

In 45 minutes I’m done.  Washed, blowdried, waved and braided.  In just 45 minutes my rain and puddle soaked hair has been transformed from resembling dull hessian curtains you might find in a nursing home, to bouncy FemBot-esque waves with twin split Dutch braids through the front.  Winning.  Despite leaving the salon looking freaking amazing, I hasten to add that it literally rained crazy heavy for the rest of the day.  I threw on a Baker Boy hat and popped the collar of my faux fur coat (which hasn’t looked the same since) and went on my merry way.

Basically the moral of the story is, pack heavy, ditch the styling equipment, rock messy hair for part one, hand part two over to a superfly blowdry bar like SHOW DRY and basque in how easy you made it for yourself.  Cheers SHOW DRY Notting Hill, same time next season.

Pixie xo

Pixie Tenenbaum Editor's signature with fashion illustration graphic