Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: Fashion, Models, Uncategorized

Ones To Watch SS18 at London Fashion Week

After a rough start to day one of London Fashion Week, I hit the ground running, albeit a few steps behind, with the multi-designer Ones To Watch show for SS18.  The Ones To Watch show seeks to raise the profile of emerging talent globally and the rostered designers are selected from a long list of emerging designers by a panel of industry experts.  It’s a must see show every season and if you’re an LFW regular, then you can guarantee that you’ll see these names cropping up further down the line.  They’re selected on a number of criteria and the resulting showcase is always a very interesting show.

“THE ONES TO WATCH SHOW IS THE PERFECT LAUNCH PAD FOR TALENTED NEW DESIGNERS. THIS SEASON’S FOUR DESIGNERS PRESENT COMPLETELY DIFFERENT VISIONS OF THE FUTURE OF FASHION. THIS IS THE SUCCESS OF ONES TO WATCH AND WHY IT IS SO POPULAR.”  MARTYN ROBERTS, FASHION SCOUT

The Ones To Watch show for the LFW SS18 season featured four strong designers, each with a different focus and style, I was already flustered on arrival after having to hot foot it from Kings Cross but a coffee and a chat with the lovely Donna Air fixed all of that and set me up for a pretty decent show.

NEO DESIGN

With a palette of black, black and even more black, this almost gender neutral collection cast a stark contrast against the all white show space.  The brand was born out of a graduate project and focusses on the manufacture of the garments as much as the appearance of the final product.  This SS18 collection connected the past with the future with a range made for modern warriors.  Leather, quilting and rope combined in the deepest shades of noir to give an untouchable aesthetic making the wearer a force to be reckoned with.  A collection designed to give the illusion of power and one that certainly succeeds.

 JI WON CHOI

Ji Won Choi’s collection is one of vibrant colour with an underlying message.  The collection, entitled Excessivism, highlights the waste in our closets today.  Swathes of fabric cover the models bodies with exaggerated graphic lines, cuts and strapping.  Ji Won Choi is a designer defying the traditional fashion calendar by showing a seasonless collection, seeking to shift the focus to sustainability over fast fashion.

Bright, playful and clever with elements of wearability.  The message to society is strong with this one…

TRIINU PUNGITS

Pungits is an experienced designer with 13 years of design experience under her sequinned belt.  Normally I’m a fan of her work, a champion of self expression and freedom, her prints are to die for.  This latest collection for me was underwhelming.  Yes, sure there was the whole novelty foam hands thing but it wasn’t consistent enough throughout the collection to be something to sit up and take notice of and felt like it had been added for drama.

I loved the geometric lines, printed leotards and added red heart feature but the whole thing felt a little disjointed for me, especially after the success of SS17 and a meaningful and satisfying collection.  Interesting sure, but more filler than killer for me I’m afraid.  Soz Pungits.

STARSICA

Talk about going out on a high, Starsica SS18 rocked my world and gave Day 1 of LFW an injection of youth and vibrance with that all important wearability factor.  Taking it’s name from the term Star Seeker, depicting a wise man forecasting the movement of the stars and therefore predicting the future, Starsica represents the concept of ‘Everyday luxury wear with the anxiety of modern society’ and it gets it right on point.

Simple shapes and cut out detailing at pivot points gave a youthful edge to the collection and rolled head torches gave a nod to the explorer vibe hinted at in the brand name.  I loved this collection and there’s a space in my wardrobe for that gorgeous human heart sweater and Victoriana ruffle dress.  Despite being a playful collection, Starsica never loses its elegance and stays just the right side of wearable.  Definitely One to Watch.

Pixie xo

Categories: Fashion, Uncategorized

Vancouver Fashion Week FW17: Day 2

Day two of Vancouver Fashion Week kicked off with a whole host of brand new, raw talent, completely new to the VFW stage (if you haven’t yet caught up on Day 1, you can refresh your memory here).  This crop of talent is particularly exciting given the use of unusual textures and fabrication methods and a quirky new aesthetic.  Here are the highlights…

KRISTEN LEY

Sculptural leather forms with an avant-garde twist were sent down Kristen Ley’s catwalk.  Very reminiscent of early Alexander McQueen, Ley executes her vision through creative design and a nod to contemporary art.  Highlights from the collection include geo moulded torso pieces, a molten metallic asymmetrical dress with texture clash tulle overlay and a balloon skirt made from metres of a swirling teal sea.  Definitely one to watch.

TRISTEN MICKELSON

This 17 year old designer constructs his designs by marrying street style with luxury materials.  A mostly black collection weighted with heavy leather and wool in deconstructed shapes.  Oversize is Mickelson’s signature aesthetic on the runway and one that works well in these textures.

MOSKAL

Stephanie Moscall-Varey, the creative vision behind the womenswear label MOSKAL has already enjoyed global recognition for her design work so far.  Her FW17 collection is heavily influenced by natural forms and fabrics and the delicate hues and fluid, feminine shapes make her pieces instantly identifiable.  Carefully worked netting, sheer flowing skirts and a modern colour palette of lilac, cornflower and tangerine gave the show a theatrical dance aesthetic.

HANJUN JO

Trained in the UK and producing in South Korea, Hanjun Jo’s FW17 collection was K-fashion meets Savile Row.  Inspired by 1920’s tennis, wool, cotton and PVC were layered in a mesh of verti-flow patterns and soft blocks of colour.  Muted hues, soft fabrics, rough edges and asymmetric shapes were lifted to new styling heights via linear makeup and an uber strong beauty look.

KAKOPIEROS

Citing Anne Frank as the inspiration behind her collection, Kakopieros embeds dark and chaotic elements in her politically charged work.  Using rubber and latex to reflect current worldly issues and using sheet fabric like a chalkboard for political statements, as so many other designers have done this season.  This bondage-esque collection is laced with neon and horror in equal measures with the odd curse word thrown in for maximum impact.  The erratic undertones are enhanced with the addition of disjointed Barbie appendages dangling from models’ ears and tucked into stockings.  Club Kid wigs, fishnets and constricting facial jewellery topped off a collection that will leave you thinking about human trafficking, women’s rights, ‘fake news’ and those on the margins of human decency.

With Day 2, VFW FW17 has really hit its stride, keep it here for more highlights Voyeurs….

Pixie xo

Categories: Fashion, Uncategorized

London Fashion Week FW17: John Herrera

In a fashion Months full of firsts, designer John Herrera showed for the first time at Fashion Scout and debuted with his FW17 collection, Agila.  A showcase tinged with tradition and exploration of Herrera’s Filipino roots.

 

Herrera launched his brand in London two years ago when he was chosen to participate in the British Council and British Fashion Council’s International Fashion Showcase at Somerset House.  That same year Herrera went on to win at the London Emerging Designer Awards, also at Somerset House, and showed his winning collection at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Tokyo.  After showing a sensational bioluminescence themed collection and on the eve of LFW’s FW17 season, Herrera was announced as the winner of Britain’s Top Designer award for 2017, a title previously held by Helen Woollams of Hellavagirl Couture.

John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.

For his FW17 collection Herrera harked back to his roots, experimenting with filipino tribal art and tattoos straight out of Luzon.  The Philippine eagle which features prominently throughout the stunning six piece collection, was a huge inspiration to the designer, each piece of his hand-drawn, original artwork was transferred to the fabric through dye-sublimation printing in partnership with Epson Philippines, with amazing attention to detail.  The result, a sublime kaleidoscopic effect in earthy, neutral tones.  I was on the front row and can vouch for just how hotly anticipated and talked about this show was;  without a doubt, Herrera’s showcase was one of the most over subscribed shows I’ve been to in years and for good reason.

John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.

The great thing about Herrera as an emerging design talent, is his passion for ethical material sourcing and supporting his hometown where he continues to produce his collections.  His staff is made up of women from challenged upbringing and he continues to support his community through his work; Herrera is a designer who has seen struggle and made it work as a positive in his branding.

Next on the agenda for the Filipino designer is a stint at Paris Fashion Week.  Agila will be shown as a static presentation at The Westin Paris – Vendome as part of the prestigious So… Couture showroom.

Definitely one to watch Voyeurs, the Agila collection is already up on Vogue Online and will feature in this season’s accompanying Vogue Collections – I’ll be watching for Herrera’s next move as September is always the best show season…

Pixie xo

Categories: Fashion, Uncategorized

Vancouver Fashion Week FW17 Show Season

I know what you’re going to say, this isn’t New York, London, Milan or Paris and so probably not worth your time, but you’d be wrong.  The ‘Big Four’ are the powerhouses, the Fashion Month that we look to for inspiration and which dictates our high street fashion trends.  However, if you’re interested in New Gen talent, then Vancouver Fashion Week is a hot-bed for new design talent from all over the world and it’s more accessible than you might think…

Vancouver Fashion Week, founded by producer, Jamal Abdourahman in 2001, has announced details for its 29th consecutive season.  The FW17 show season will take place from March 20th – 26th, known internationally as the ‘Gateway to Global Fashion,’ Vancouver Fashion Week, held in the capital of Canada’s most creative and international province it’s the most well known Fashion Week outside of the ‘Big Four’ and plays host to some of the world’s greatest aspiring design talent.

Presenting a range of national and international designers, VFW has established a global platform, while also maintaining its support for local talent. The shows will be held at the David Lam Hall in downtown Vancouver, where it will open its doors to designers, media, buyers and agents to explore and discover seven days of ready-to-wear from around the globe.  The line-up of hand-picked talent from Canada and around the world, will showcase their designs throughout VFW hoping to be spotted or picked up by the Asian market as so many other VFW show talents have.

FW17 brings with it a host of new talent (often the most exciting) whose collections will make their debut on the VFW runway.   VFW is lauded worldwide as the fastest growing fashion week outside of the ones you’ve come to know and love, and the only industry event that actively seeks to showcase international award winning talent alongside its homegrown designers, the event gets bigger and better every year and if like me you’re a fashion lover, VFW is definitely one to watch. 

See you on the flip Voyeurs.

Pixie xo

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