Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

Joshua Kane Presents Fantasy for SS18 at London Fashion Week

If there’s one designer who doesn’t conform to the standards set out in fashion, it’s Joshua Kane.  Daring to be different in a sea of over familiar runway shows, Kane stands out by shunning the norm and producing his own show in its entirety, away from the on and off schedule venues packed out during London Fashion Week.  Known as “The People’s Designer”, Oxford born Joshua Kane has brought fashion to the masses by opening up his epic runway shows to the public.  In an unprecedented move by the designer, members of the public have been given the chance to rub shoulders with the glitterati of the fashion industry and a few devoted celebrities and fans of the British born tailor.

That one broken light has upset me greatly…

Kane favours The London Palladium as his showcase venue and when you see his branding and the associated collection, it’s plain to see that the two are a perfect match.  With his eclectic look and uber tailored style, Kane sets the standard for what is forthcoming in his show.  Like Barney Stinson, Kane is never pictured without his suit and a wide brimmed hat, and his insanely beautiful girlfriend and sidekick Francesca is never far from his side.

For Spring Summer 2018 Kane teased us with his self directed three part short film titled Fantasy, to accompany and tell the unfolding story of the collection starring Asa Butterfield.  Kane’s second outing at The London Palladium is where fashion meets romance with strong undercurrents of regal glamour.  Models walked out on to an elaborate stage set, through gates out into the audience giving a close up look at the craftsmanship as they strode through the aisles.

Rich heritage tweeds and silks in a colour palette mostly bade up of black, red and cornflower blue dominated the collection, which also announced Kane’s foray into the accessories market.  Models carried handbags from Kane’s debut accessory line and a range of pocket squares and ties were showcased with strong tailored looks.  The brand is filled with drama, from the unexpected sharp lines in feminine tailoring, to the trousers that stop at that perfect 8/8 line making them wearable with any shoe or boot.

Casting for the show couldn’t have been more on point; models with mullets and chiselled features stormed the makeshift runway, posing a contrast between the sharp cuts and feminine fabrics and patterns.

Kane’s use of leather in both structured biker jackets in black and vibrant pink, as well as in the looser trench variety, was new for SS18 and a welcome addition for the season showcasing Kane’s talent and ability to tailor harsher fabrics.  A whole variety of shapes and finishes for SS18 unveiled a new side to “The People’s Designer” and his rich portfolio continues to expand.  Starting with a solid menswear foundation Kane moved to introduce women’s tailoring, swiftly followed with this range of accessories, handbags and even skateboard decks.

I’m really looking forward to seeing how Joshua Kane develops his career, whatever comes next from “The People’s Designer”, I can’t help but think it’s going to be worth the wait.

Pixie xo

Categories: The Fashion Closet

John Herrera SS18 at London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week‘s SS18 season is already weighing in as a heavyweight against New York Fashion Week’s decreasing flyweight.  NYFW was once the matriarch of Fashion Month, a beacon held aloft for the lesser three to aspire to.  Well those days are long gone, since the division of Fashion Month and The Big Four as a whole, New York Fashion Week has become the diluted and less aspirational sister to the European Three, and Vancouver Fashion Week is hot on its heels.

Back to London and we’re on day 2 with John Herrera’s Amanda collection for SS18.  Herrera launched his brand just two years ago when he was chosen to participate in the British Council and British Fashion Council’s International Fashion Showcase, keen fashionistas will remember that he went on to win at the London Emerging Designer Awards at Somerset House, showcasing his Agila collection at MBFW in Tokyo.  That’s a whirlwind career for a designer who set up his namesake label just two short years ago.

Last season Herrera put together a presentation of looks on the runway for Fashion Scout, his first runway show.  This season he’s back and he’s upped the ante with Armada; a 30 piece collection of digitally printed haute couture fashion, designed to turn heads.  Building on Agila for FW17, Herrera was inspired by the accidental discovery of the Philippine Islands by the Spanish; Diogo Ribiero’s World Map from 1529 set the pace for Spring Summer 2018’s prints and the linear fabric manipulation techniques.  All pretty spectacular when you see it in real life.

Models walked the runway complete with a strong beauty look of whited out faces with burgundy or black lips topped with bag veils fashioned from voile and tied at the neck adding a gothic opulence to the show.  Shapes were stronger this season, if Herrera carved out his niche in FW17, he’s closer to perfecting it in SS18.  Wing tipped shoulders and cinched in waists were the stalwarts within the collection, with a ruffle frilled Little Red Riding Hood-esque cape that defied these shapes to become the stand out piece in the collection.

The show was fluid and told a story, if you’ve followed Herrera’s career to date you’ll know that he employs women from challenged upbringings and communities and has produced a work ethic that’s unrivalled.  He’s a designer who cares about the origins of his collection and how it makes its way on to the runway as final pieces.  The Armada collection features a nod to the Spanish monarchy with regal ruff necklines and hourglass body shapes with a touch of fetishism brought in.

Herrera’s second mainline runway show at London Fashion Week definitely upped the drama and proved that he’s more than a presentation designer.  With 30 key looks produced in the last six months between seasons, I can’t wait to see what Herrera brings us for FW18 in February.

Pixie xo

Pixie Tenenbaum Editor's signature with fashion illustration graphic