Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: The Fashion Closet

London Fashion Week FW17: Chanel Joan Elkayam presents La Sola Rosa

London Fashion Week is always exciting, it’s a hotbed for fresh talent and in terms of ‘The Big Four’, it’s the one we look to for micro trend inspiration.  It’s a great place for spotting emerging design talent and the FW17 season saw several designers make their debut, a few of whom stand out for all the right reasons.  Jessie Western showed their first runway collection this season to huge success and another young designer to break the mound is Chanel Joan Elkayam.

Elkayam has been on my radar for a little while now, she’s an interesting girl and I’ve followed her career to date with curiosity after she contacted me a couple of years back.  Elkayam has an impressive CV and a list of awards and accolades as long as the train on her finale gown.  Whenever I read about her, I’m always curious to find out more.  The reason I’m so interested in her is that she’s just 19 years old.  Yes Voyeurs you read that right, this is a fully fledged fashion designer who not only creates her own collections, but produces her own elaborate shows, all at the tender age of 19.

Elkayam is a Womenswear student studying at Central St. Martin’s, she’s been around on the tradeshow scene for a little while now but in 2016 the girl blew up in a big way.  Major players started to take notice, she was invited to show at Paris Fashion Week for FW16 and in doing so, became the youngest designer to show a couture collection during Fashion Month.  Since then, she’s shown at New York Fashion Week for SS17 and spoken at several conferences about women in business.  She may be just 19 years old but the girl is a powerhouse; at the 2016 New York Fashion Awards, Elkayam was awarded the ‘International Designer of the Year’ by industry professionals.

Her FW17 collection, La Sola Rosa was a story of Love and loss.  Inspired by poet Vera Brittain who was given a single red rose by her fiancé at the train station on their last day together during World War 1.  Elkayam sought to portray raw beauty, emotion, power and romantic sensuality though her collection and did this with drama and flair.

Guests took their seats and the lights were dimmed before the show began.  Models walked the runway with a strong Dolce Vita inspired beauty look reminiscent of Dolce & Gabbana’s Sicilian princesses, a timeless red lip and a single red rose to compliment Elkayam’s debut accessory line.  A largely monochrome palette with flashes of red and tapestry brocade, the collection showcased the female form using traditional shapes with a focus on the waist using leather waspies to cinch and create an hourglass shape.

When you’re watching a show with as many looks, comprising both a fashion collection and an accessories line, it’s hard to remember that Elkayam is still in her first year at Central St Martin’s.  Detailing throughout the collection is uniform and exquisite, her eye for detail is mature well beyond her years and whilst the shapes are simple, Elkayam clearly knows where her strengths lie.

Personally, I’m looking forward to seeing how Elkayam’s career progresses, with preparations already underway for SS18, I’ll be back on the frow in September so keep it here Voyeurs and remember the name Chanel Joan Elkayam, you’ll be hearing it a lot more….

Pixie xo

 

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

London Fashion Week FW17: Jessie Western

By now you know all about my love for Jessie Western and it’s eclectic mix of handmade cowboy boots, ponchos, suede skirts and fine jewellery.  The super small but mighty store is found in the heart of Portobello Market and it’s ripe with the heady smell of leather as you enter – something I look forward to every time I visit.

Jessie Western is more than just a shop, sisters Vicky and Jessie actively support over 4000 artists on the Arizona reservations they’ve been visiting for over 28 years.  With Jessie’s individual dress sense and keen eye for design, the brand has gained a legion of celebrity fans including Brad Pitt, Anna Dello Russo Kate Moss and Cameron Diaz.

It’s no surprise there’s such a cult following, it’s Western done right, no fakery, no mimics, it’s real Navajo clothing and accessories with a couture twist.  There’s a definite Jessie Western aesthetic, one which when you see it, you know it’s quintessentially Jessie Western and it made total sense for the brand to make its debut at London Fashion Week for the Fall / Winter 2017 season.

With a backdrop of Western landscape and cactus plants in an open plan warehouse space, the co-ed show shone a spotlight on the brand and opened up western dressing to the masses.  Vogue Paris took note, citing it as revolutionary, and the British Fashion Council have since guaranteed Jessie Western a main schedule show for SS18, a real coup following their first show season.

Blanket coats, leather laced trousers and waistcoats and the obligatory cowboy boots were the order of the day, adorned with real Navajo jewellery and topped with stetsons and fur trappers.  The jewellery was a real talking point amongst showgoers with their signature turquoise and aquamarine pieces amongst the showstoppers.

Obviously I’m a big Jessie Western fan, not only of the aesthetic but also of the brand’s ethos; sisters Vicky and Jessie are very different but when it comes to their fashion and jewellery range, they’re united in their shared passion for giving their Native American artists a platform as well as sustainability.  The urban showspace with it’s polished concrete floor was an awesome venue and lent itself well to the Jessie Western look, dreamcatchers hung from the ceiling and an awesome soundtrack played out.

After the show models mingled with guests in their runway outfits as drinks were served.  Fashion Editors had the chance to hold impromptu post show interviews with Jessie and Vicky to discuss their inspiration for this curated collection and find out more about Jessie’s line of fine jewellery set with rare and unusual stones.

Jessie Western is a brand that has long been on Vogue’s radar, it’s a favourite of Porter magazine and only now is it coming to the forefront of fashion with it’s first mainline show at London Fashion Week.  After huge success this season and a dictatorial stance on trends, Jessie Western will be one to watch, with an on schedule show pencilled in as part of the official LFW show schedule for SS18, you could be seeing huge things from Jessie Western come September.  The Jessie Western look is a commitment, it’s top to toe and damn is it effective, you can of course take parts of it and incorporate it into your wardrobe but if you want to see it done right, visit the store in Notting Hill and just take a look at Jessie, she works this look like she invented it and damn is it good.  So good in fact, it’ll make you want to rethink your whole wardrobe…

Pixie xo

Photo credit Marc Atken

Categories: The Fashion Closet

London Fashion Week FW17: N&S GAIA presents The Hybrid

SS17 has given fashion lovers more trends, sub trends and micro trends than we can shake a stick at, each of them totally wearable and lustworthy. (I’m looking at you gingham).  If I’m honest, SS17 is when Fashion Month got its mojo back (with the exception of NYFW which was a soaking wet, drowning squib).  FW17 had a tough act to follow and early shows out of the gate at NYFW showed promise.  Now Voyeurs if you don’t know, pay attention: LFW is the younger, fresher, funkier sister of NYFW, the one that everyone loves and wants to cheat with, so as all eyes turned to the British fashion capital we expected great and wonderful things….

The early days of every capital’s Fashion Week are designated for the relatively unknown, new or emerging design talent and these are often some of the best shows you’ll see.  With these showcases and presentations there’s zero expectation, often because we haven’t seen seasons previous or the label hasn’t quite established its niche.  Enter N&S GAIA, a rising star in Indian fashion and originating from New Delhi, the label has contributed to the successful rebirth and modernisation of Dakmanda – a hand-woven embroidery technique of the Garo tribe in North East India.  The brand is also a major proponent of the exploration of upcycling and use of sustainable fabrics. Dedicated to its pillars, the ‘N’ and ‘S’ in N&S GAIA standing for Nature and Sustainability.

Founded by designer, Sidharth Sinha in 2013, the brand made its second LFW runway appearance at Fashion Scout this show season.  I hotfooted it over to the Freemason’s Hall wearing the most perfect vintage skirt and an incredibly rude tee to bring you the lowdown on this relatively undiscovered label.

Following on from the SS17 collection, which was shown in both London and Paris, and given a coveted Vogue Online collections report, N&S GAIA carries forward its signature style of colourful flowing silks punctuated by wide-legs, exaggerated ruffles, sweeping hems, bold, painterly appliqué and tapestry embroidery.

Exploring a deep, dark facet of meta-modernism, the FW17 collection, entitled The Hybrid, is centred on nature photography and existential transformation.  Models walked the runway wearing simplistic pieces which grew bolder as the show progressed, starting relatively tame and occasionally rising above the parapet with something more dramatic.  Soft, blurred lines adorned with tapestry embroidery and shapes which reflect the brand’s Indian heritage were the order of the day set in a muted colour palette, sometimes accented with a pop of metallic.

Shapes were fluid with constructed drapes offset by elements like wide flares, pleating and voluminous sleeves.  Surfaces including the handwoven details of the Dakmanda mix with metallic embroidery echoing the hybrid forms in nature.

Nature starts with almost nothing, just a molecule; where humanity plays the role of the transformation.

A pioneer of sustainability in Indian fashion, N&S GAIA aims to use a balance of hand-woven textiles blended with mill-woven fabric and natural dyes in an effort to push the brand to the forefront of the fashion industry’s natural progression.  Textile and craft are at the core of N&S GAIA and that’s evident in both the craftsmanship and the attention to detail in the embellishment.

Yes, it’s tame compared to some of the stalwarts of Fashion Month but it’s not just about the drama.  This collection is wearable, relatable and ultimately, sustainable.  This is a brand with a vision and some sense of direction, there are consistencies throughout the collection and that’s great news for a relatively new label.  Measurable progression is key in the fashion industry and time is a key ingredient for progression.  Fashion Scout is known for nurturing design talent so I’m interested to see how the RTW collection is received following show season.

I’ll be back for more in September for SS18 and N&S GAIA’s next power move…

Pixie xo

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

London Fashion Week FW17: Hellavagirl Couture

Fresh off the back of her 2016 Britain’s Top Designer win, Helen Woollams has created what’s surely her best visual spectacle yet for Hellavagirl’s FW17 showcase at Fashion Scout.  I headed out to the Freemason’s Hall in a leather A-line skirt (to protect me from the elements) to share this awesome collection with you.  I got to go backstage prior to the show too but that’s a whole other story…..

The Last Dawn on Mars FW17 –A Post apocalyptic inspired couture collection with dark undertones and a regal rock and roll edge, a dys(co)topian future if you will, filled with couture robots to blow your circuits.

The opening look set the tone for the show, a shimmering oversized gown masked the model’s limbs giving the illusion of exaggerated height, topped off with a ginormous flower crown beyond even your wildest dreams, fashioned out of paper by specialist crafters, Tissue Blossoms.

A silver two piece consisting of harem pants and a metallic, frilled top dripping with emerald coloured stones (one of my favourite looks) gave off a space age mermaid vibe as an awesome follow up to the opener.  From the Frow, in the VIP section no less, I had a fantastic view of this exciting showcase, a collection which tests boundaries and challenges proportions.  A glittertastic, brocade wrapped, flower topped collection of couture for confident, powerful women who don’t fall at the feet of men.

Woollams’ collections are always strong, but FW17 is the dark side of the fairytale.  For every wooded tower that hides a princess there’s a gothic witch just wishing she had Hellavagirl on speed dial; it’s exactly that kind of devilishly flirtatious drama.  A hybrid of couture and RTW, this is a collection available to buy and wear but it’s not for the faint of heart.  Filled to he brim with sequins, sparkle, tulle and brocade, it’s dramatic, confident and filled with personality.

Personally, I adored the show, I was keen to see how Woollams would build on her 2016 national recognition and was pleasantly unsurprised.  It’s great to see that she’s stuck to the principles that made her stand out from the crowd in the first place, staying firmly within her talent niche there’s a definite Hellavagirl aesthetic developing.  Creating unapologetic proportions and dramatic shapes that scream “Don’t fuck with me” – a bold trouser with added width at the hip, or a voluminous jacket with looping shoulders, the knack for creating these exaggerated silhouettes has become Woollams’ signature and it’s one I hope she’ll keep as she’s edging the pack.

When I started writing this post I knew it had to be image led as The Last Dawn on Mars is a collection that has to be viewed to be appreciated.  A distinct Bowie influence makes the collection beautifully bittersweet, but I’ll leave you to make your own assessment.  I can’t wait to see what Hellavagirl brings us in September for SS18 and I’ll be waiting with bated breath for another look inside the mind of Helen Woollams.  So for now Voyeurs, enjoy The Last Dawn on Mars…….

Pixie xo

 

 

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet, The Glorious North East

Sports Luxe Dressing at Silverlink Shopping Park

If there’s one trend that’s gathering pace right now, it’s the Sports Luxe trend.  Done right, it’s the epitome of cool, with trailblazers Vetements, Puma x Fenty and Hood by Air leading the pack on the runway.  Get it wrong however and it’s a whole other story.  So, what exactly is Sports Luxe and how do you wear it?

Vetements
Puma x Fenty
Hood by Air

I was asked by Silverlink Retail Park to compile a trend report on Sports Luxe with some handy tips on how to recreate the look on the high street.  IRL the trend is softer and way easier to wear – on the runway it’s harsh and extreme but the high street interpretation lends itself to some pretty awesome looks and it’s a trend that fits my lifestyle perfectly so I was looking forward to getting stuck into this.

Sports Luxe is a trend you can wear for work or play, based around the idea of the practicality and functionality of sportswear, combined with tailored shapes and clean lines to keep it current and stop it veering into scruffy territory.  Think chiffon dresses with a soft sweater thrown over the top, or retro Adidas sweatpants with a blouse.  Ballet pink and grey are the colours du jour for this trend and functional details such as chunky zippers will score you extra points.

At Silverlink Shopping Park in North Tyneside, there are a surprising number of high street fashion stores in close proximity including Next, New Look, H&M, River Island and Marks & Spencer.  The real gem amongst them though is Outfit.  One store, seven highstreet fashion brands all from the house of Aurora fashions; Topshop, Warehouse, Dorothy Perkins & Miss Selfridge are amongst the fashion favourites you’ll find in this store and the place is brimming with wearable Sports Luxe garments in a whole array of textures.

H&M came up trumps with these modern wearable takes on the sportswear trend and in this season’s key colours of ballet pink and cobalt blue too, with a pretty wide range, there’s something for all tastes and they’re at the cheaper end of the scale making it accessible for everyone.  River Island is great for solid sporty basics, think Beyonce’s leotard microtrend translated to the highstreet, and you’re on the right track. With cotton bodysuits for just £16 they’re up at the top end of my list – throw an embroidered bomber over the top and you’ll be werking Sports Luxe in no time.

Across the Shopping Park in New Look there’s a whole section dedicated to creating the Sports Luxe look, with oversized sweater dresses and shredded hoodies it’s very similar to the Hood by Air aesthetic on a high street budget.  Head here for lightweight layering to throw over your Sports Luxe basic pieces.  I spotted a soft grey playsuit – technically nightwear –  but perfect for nailing the trend in Summer if you’re feeling confident, perfection with chunky boots and a light duster jacket for shrobing.

In Outfit you’re greeted with items that fit the brief as soon as you enter the store and it’s a fresher, more fashion conscious effort at Sports Luxe.  With Topshop leading the field (as always) there’s a choice of crossover ballet tops, layered dresses, faux fur slides and velour sweaters (very Vetements) to choose from meaning this is the best choice for North East Fashionistas.

With so many leading high street fashion retailers in one place, its hard not to get carried away, especially seeing as this is one of my favourite trends to emerge from the runways of the fashion capitals.  I couldn’t resist the faux fur slides, the layered dress and the sweater on the Topshop mannequin so all of those made their way home with me.  I stocked up on calf high Adidas sports socks from JD Sports (which are crying out to be worn with those slides) as these look great with pleated midi skirts, especially in metallic shades.

So, with Sports Luxe being the perfect pan-season trend I’d say you’ve got a whole year to perfect it and work out your take on the look.

Pixie xo

Pixie Tenenbaum Editor's signature with fashion illustration graphic