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Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: Fashion, Uncategorized

Starsica FW18 at London Fashion Week

In the run up to London Fashion Week‘s FW18 show season I was asked a few times who I was most looking forward to seeing and as I thought about the previous season, there was one name that kept jumping out at me: STARSICA.  The fledgling brand showed as part of Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch for SS18 and put together a striking and playful collection featuring neon, cutouts and 90’s style logos.  It’s a show that really stood out and one that I was definitely looking forward to this season.

FW18 saw designer Ike Seungik Lee produce his first full collection and like anyone else, I wondered how this would stand up against some of the more established designers who had shown before STARSICA on days one, two and three.  I needn’t have worried, the STARSICA show was an absolute doozie and even now, it’s one of the one’s that stands out in my mind as being one of the strongest shows of the season in terms of the collection, the production and the darkness.  Oh the darkness…..

STARSICA FW18 LONDON FASHION WEEK a model wears blue pants and a yellow jumper
a model on the runway for STARSICA FW18 LONDON FASHION WEEK holding a hand mirror and looking at her reflection
A model on the runway for STARSICA FW18 LONDON FASHION WEEK wearing fuzzy green faux fur and a checked cape
STARSICA FW18 LONDON FASHION WEEK a model in a purple tulle tiered dress holds a bag

The show, entitled “Seirēn sings for a Mad King” takes its inspiration from learning the phenomenon of otherness.  The idea behind the collection is primarily derived from observing the behaviours of the unspecified masses around us and Lee does this to perfection.  From the eerie opening to the jerky music box soundtrack, the show had me captivated from start to finish.

There is an inherent sense of humour and futility in the collection that is the DNA of STARSICA, displaying distorted aspects of our society in conceptual symbols.  The models walked as exaggerated versions of themselves with jerky motions and through theatrical breaks and interactions with the audience they left us wondering if, in essence, we are all the Mad King.  We utilise the vision of those who interpret the egos and lives of others through their own subjective perspectives.  With this in mind, the collection constitutes a sense of dramatic construction, and draws on reinterpreting Greek tragedy as a fashion monologue.  It truly was a sight to behold and truly if you weren’t there, you missed out.

STARSICA FW18 LONDON FASHION WEEK a model in a grey suit covered with semiotic symbols carrying a three dimensional coffin shaped bag
STARSICA FW18 LONDON FASHION WEEK a model on the runway in a grey suit covered in semiotic symbols as a nod to the Mad King
STARSICA FW18 LONDON FASHION WEEK a model in an open front suit with her breasts visible
STARSICA FW18 LONDON FASHION WEEK a model with wings attached to the back of her coat
Starsica FW17

STARSICA’s models took on the appearance of siren-like dolls, a little like the Monster High dolls a child would play with, eerily made up to fit a distorted ideal.  They carried with them pieces from the debut STARSICA accessory line in the form of three dimensional coffin shaped bags which reinterpret the portable bags carried by the Mad King himself, hand mirrors and even bird cages.  Semiotic symbols adorned a grey suit which stood out in a collection where every piece was saleable.

The playful motifs in wings and soft fur which can be understood as symbols of Siren, the troubadour, have been reinterpreted with a modern twist and found in the prints of Lee’s own paintings and the patterns created by embroideries.  These echo the essence of mythological elements such as the star, bird and semiotic signs, the collection is as fun and uplifting as it is spooky and eerie.

STARSICA FW18 LONDON FASHION WEEK a model in a guilded gold wing top on the runway to appear like wings
STARSICA FW18 LONDON FASHION WEEK a model wearing a checked dress and carrying a birdcage
STARSICA FW18 LONDON FASHION WEEK a model in tiered tulle carrying a coffin shaped bag
STARSICA FW18 LONDON FASHION WEEK a model in a full floor length patterned skirt covering her eyes

Inversely, the Mad King is portrayed through the gothic arched lines in wearable suits and hard reliefs on coats.  The primary colour for the Mad King is dark purple, while grey is used to describe the Mad King’s power.   Finally, glen check patterns and wide sleeves create the juxtaposition of fabrics and colours to express intertextuality and cohesive characteristics of Siren and the Mad King.  These pieces are highlighted with romantic silhouettes on tail edges, scribble prints and splashes of gold which reflect the sense of sadness brought about by the death of the Mad King, perhaps the reason for the models appearing so tortured.  I loved every minute of it and left feeling like this was probably going to be the most memorable show of the season.  I wasn’t wrong.

Pixie

Categories: Fashion, Models, Uncategorized

Ones To Watch SS18 at London Fashion Week

After a rough start to day one of London Fashion Week, I hit the ground running, albeit a few steps behind, with the multi-designer Ones To Watch show for SS18.  The Ones To Watch show seeks to raise the profile of emerging talent globally and the rostered designers are selected from a long list of emerging designers by a panel of industry experts.  It’s a must see show every season and if you’re an LFW regular, then you can guarantee that you’ll see these names cropping up further down the line.  They’re selected on a number of criteria and the resulting showcase is always a very interesting show.

“THE ONES TO WATCH SHOW IS THE PERFECT LAUNCH PAD FOR TALENTED NEW DESIGNERS. THIS SEASON’S FOUR DESIGNERS PRESENT COMPLETELY DIFFERENT VISIONS OF THE FUTURE OF FASHION. THIS IS THE SUCCESS OF ONES TO WATCH AND WHY IT IS SO POPULAR.”  MARTYN ROBERTS, FASHION SCOUT

The Ones To Watch show for the LFW SS18 season featured four strong designers, each with a different focus and style, I was already flustered on arrival after having to hot foot it from Kings Cross but a coffee and a chat with the lovely Donna Air fixed all of that and set me up for a pretty decent show.

NEO DESIGN

LFW Ones To Watch Neo Design 3
LFW Ones To Watch Neo Design 6
LFW Ones To Watch Neo Design 9
LFW Ones To Watch Neo Design 8

With a palette of black, black and even more black, this almost gender neutral collection cast a stark contrast against the all white show space.  The brand was born out of a graduate project and focusses on the manufacture of the garments as much as the appearance of the final product.  This SS18 collection connected the past with the future with a range made for modern warriors.  Leather, quilting and rope combined in the deepest shades of noir to give an untouchable aesthetic making the wearer a force to be reckoned with.  A collection designed to give the illusion of power and one that certainly succeeds.

 JI WON CHOI

LFW Fashion Scout Ones To Watch Ji Won Choi 1
LFW Fashion Scout Ones To Watch Ji Won Choi 2
LFW Fashion Scout Ones To Watch Ji Won Choi 3
LFW Fashion Scout Ones To Watch Ji Won Choi 4

Ji Won Choi’s collection is one of vibrant colour with an underlying message.  The collection, entitled Excessivism, highlights the waste in our closets today.  Swathes of fabric cover the models bodies with exaggerated graphic lines, cuts and strapping.  Ji Won Choi is a designer defying the traditional fashion calendar by showing a seasonless collection, seeking to shift the focus to sustainability over fast fashion.

Bright, playful and clever with elements of wearability.  The message to society is strong with this one…

TRIINU PUNGITS

LFW Fashion Scout Ones To Watch Triinu Pungits 4
LFW Fashion Scout Ones To Watch Triinu Pungits 3
LFW Fashion Scout Ones To Watch Triinu Pungits 2
LFW Fashion Scout Ones To Watch Triinu Pungits

Pungits is an experienced designer with 13 years of design experience under her sequinned belt.  Normally I’m a fan of her work, a champion of self expression and freedom, her prints are to die for.  This latest collection for me was underwhelming.  Yes, sure there was the whole novelty foam hands thing but it wasn’t consistent enough throughout the collection to be something to sit up and take notice of and felt like it had been added for drama.

I loved the geometric lines, printed leotards and added red heart feature but the whole thing felt a little disjointed for me, especially after the success of SS17 and a meaningful and satisfying collection.  Interesting sure, but more filler than killer for me I’m afraid.  Soz Pungits.

STARSICA

LFW Fashion Scout Ones To Watch Starsica
LFW Fashion Scout Ones To Watch Starsica 2
LFW Fashion Scout Ones To Watch Starsica 3
LFW Fashion Scout Ones To Watch Starsica 4

Talk about going out on a high, Starsica SS18 rocked my world and gave Day 1 of LFW an injection of youth and vibrance with that all important wearability factor.  Taking it’s name from the term Star Seeker, depicting a wise man forecasting the movement of the stars and therefore predicting the future, Starsica represents the concept of ‘Everyday luxury wear with the anxiety of modern society’ and it gets it right on point.

Simple shapes and cut out detailing at pivot points gave a youthful edge to the collection and rolled head torches gave a nod to the explorer vibe hinted at in the brand name.  I loved this collection and there’s a space in my wardrobe for that gorgeous human heart sweater and Victoriana ruffle dress.  Despite being a playful collection, Starsica never loses its elegance and stays just the right side of wearable.  Definitely One to Watch.

Pixie xo

Pixie Tenenbaum 2024

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People will stare, make it worth their while

Pixie Tenenbaum

FASHION VOYEUR

Freelance Fashion and Beauty Writer
Currently taking review slots
Hire Me: pixie.tenenbaum@gmail.com

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RION Magazine Fashion Editor

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THE material girl Madonna has made her way to the #MetGala. 💅

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