Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

London Fashion Week FW17: John Herrera

In a fashion Months full of firsts, designer John Herrera showed for the first time at Fashion Scout and debuted with his FW17 collection, Agila.  A showcase tinged with tradition and exploration of Herrera’s Filipino roots.

 

Herrera launched his brand in London two years ago when he was chosen to participate in the British Council and British Fashion Council’s International Fashion Showcase at Somerset House.  That same year Herrera went on to win at the London Emerging Designer Awards, also at Somerset House, and showed his winning collection at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Tokyo.  After showing a sensational bioluminescence themed collection and on the eve of LFW’s FW17 season, Herrera was announced as the winner of Britain’s Top Designer award for 2017, a title previously held by Helen Woollams of Hellavagirl Couture.

John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.

For his FW17 collection Herrera harked back to his roots, experimenting with filipino tribal art and tattoos straight out of Luzon.  The Philippine eagle which features prominently throughout the stunning six piece collection, was a huge inspiration to the designer, each piece of his hand-drawn, original artwork was transferred to the fabric through dye-sublimation printing in partnership with Epson Philippines, with amazing attention to detail.  The result, a sublime kaleidoscopic effect in earthy, neutral tones.  I was on the front row and can vouch for just how hotly anticipated and talked about this show was;  without a doubt, Herrera’s showcase was one of the most over subscribed shows I’ve been to in years and for good reason.

John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.

The great thing about Herrera as an emerging design talent, is his passion for ethical material sourcing and supporting his hometown where he continues to produce his collections.  His staff is made up of women from challenged upbringing and he continues to support his community through his work; Herrera is a designer who has seen struggle and made it work as a positive in his branding.

Next on the agenda for the Filipino designer is a stint at Paris Fashion Week.  Agila will be shown as a static presentation at The Westin Paris – Vendome as part of the prestigious So… Couture showroom.

Definitely one to watch Voyeurs, the Agila collection is already up on Vogue Online and will feature in this season’s accompanying Vogue Collections – I’ll be watching for Herrera’s next move as September is always the best show season…

Pixie xo

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

London Fashion Week FW17: Hellavagirl Couture

Fresh off the back of her 2016 Britain’s Top Designer win, Helen Woollams has created what’s surely her best visual spectacle yet for Hellavagirl’s FW17 showcase at Fashion Scout.  I headed out to the Freemason’s Hall in a leather A-line skirt (to protect me from the elements) to share this awesome collection with you.  I got to go backstage prior to the show too but that’s a whole other story…..

The Last Dawn on Mars FW17 –A Post apocalyptic inspired couture collection with dark undertones and a regal rock and roll edge, a dys(co)topian future if you will, filled with couture robots to blow your circuits.

The opening look set the tone for the show, a shimmering oversized gown masked the model’s limbs giving the illusion of exaggerated height, topped off with a ginormous flower crown beyond even your wildest dreams, fashioned out of paper by specialist crafters, Tissue Blossoms.

A silver two piece consisting of harem pants and a metallic, frilled top dripping with emerald coloured stones (one of my favourite looks) gave off a space age mermaid vibe as an awesome follow up to the opener.  From the Frow, in the VIP section no less, I had a fantastic view of this exciting showcase, a collection which tests boundaries and challenges proportions.  A glittertastic, brocade wrapped, flower topped collection of couture for confident, powerful women who don’t fall at the feet of men.

Woollams’ collections are always strong, but FW17 is the dark side of the fairytale.  For every wooded tower that hides a princess there’s a gothic witch just wishing she had Hellavagirl on speed dial; it’s exactly that kind of devilishly flirtatious drama.  A hybrid of couture and RTW, this is a collection available to buy and wear but it’s not for the faint of heart.  Filled to he brim with sequins, sparkle, tulle and brocade, it’s dramatic, confident and filled with personality.

Personally, I adored the show, I was keen to see how Woollams would build on her 2016 national recognition and was pleasantly unsurprised.  It’s great to see that she’s stuck to the principles that made her stand out from the crowd in the first place, staying firmly within her talent niche there’s a definite Hellavagirl aesthetic developing.  Creating unapologetic proportions and dramatic shapes that scream “Don’t fuck with me” – a bold trouser with added width at the hip, or a voluminous jacket with looping shoulders, the knack for creating these exaggerated silhouettes has become Woollams’ signature and it’s one I hope she’ll keep as she’s edging the pack.

When I started writing this post I knew it had to be image led as The Last Dawn on Mars is a collection that has to be viewed to be appreciated.  A distinct Bowie influence makes the collection beautifully bittersweet, but I’ll leave you to make your own assessment.  I can’t wait to see what Hellavagirl brings us in September for SS18 and I’ll be waiting with bated breath for another look inside the mind of Helen Woollams.  So for now Voyeurs, enjoy The Last Dawn on Mars…….

Pixie xo

 

 

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet, The Glorious North East

Sports Luxe Dressing at Silverlink Shopping Park

If there’s one trend that’s gathering pace right now, it’s the Sports Luxe trend.  Done right, it’s the epitome of cool, with trailblazers Vetements, Puma x Fenty and Hood by Air leading the pack on the runway.  Get it wrong however and it’s a whole other story.  So, what exactly is Sports Luxe and how do you wear it?

Vetements
Puma x Fenty
Hood by Air

I was asked by Silverlink Retail Park to compile a trend report on Sports Luxe with some handy tips on how to recreate the look on the high street.  IRL the trend is softer and way easier to wear – on the runway it’s harsh and extreme but the high street interpretation lends itself to some pretty awesome looks and it’s a trend that fits my lifestyle perfectly so I was looking forward to getting stuck into this.

Sports Luxe is a trend you can wear for work or play, based around the idea of the practicality and functionality of sportswear, combined with tailored shapes and clean lines to keep it current and stop it veering into scruffy territory.  Think chiffon dresses with a soft sweater thrown over the top, or retro Adidas sweatpants with a blouse.  Ballet pink and grey are the colours du jour for this trend and functional details such as chunky zippers will score you extra points.

At Silverlink Shopping Park in North Tyneside, there are a surprising number of high street fashion stores in close proximity including Next, New Look, H&M, River Island and Marks & Spencer.  The real gem amongst them though is Outfit.  One store, seven highstreet fashion brands all from the house of Aurora fashions; Topshop, Warehouse, Dorothy Perkins & Miss Selfridge are amongst the fashion favourites you’ll find in this store and the place is brimming with wearable Sports Luxe garments in a whole array of textures.

H&M came up trumps with these modern wearable takes on the sportswear trend and in this season’s key colours of ballet pink and cobalt blue too, with a pretty wide range, there’s something for all tastes and they’re at the cheaper end of the scale making it accessible for everyone.  River Island is great for solid sporty basics, think Beyonce’s leotard microtrend translated to the highstreet, and you’re on the right track. With cotton bodysuits for just £16 they’re up at the top end of my list – throw an embroidered bomber over the top and you’ll be werking Sports Luxe in no time.

Across the Shopping Park in New Look there’s a whole section dedicated to creating the Sports Luxe look, with oversized sweater dresses and shredded hoodies it’s very similar to the Hood by Air aesthetic on a high street budget.  Head here for lightweight layering to throw over your Sports Luxe basic pieces.  I spotted a soft grey playsuit – technically nightwear –  but perfect for nailing the trend in Summer if you’re feeling confident, perfection with chunky boots and a light duster jacket for shrobing.

In Outfit you’re greeted with items that fit the brief as soon as you enter the store and it’s a fresher, more fashion conscious effort at Sports Luxe.  With Topshop leading the field (as always) there’s a choice of crossover ballet tops, layered dresses, faux fur slides and velour sweaters (very Vetements) to choose from meaning this is the best choice for North East Fashionistas.

With so many leading high street fashion retailers in one place, its hard not to get carried away, especially seeing as this is one of my favourite trends to emerge from the runways of the fashion capitals.  I couldn’t resist the faux fur slides, the layered dress and the sweater on the Topshop mannequin so all of those made their way home with me.  I stocked up on calf high Adidas sports socks from JD Sports (which are crying out to be worn with those slides) as these look great with pleated midi skirts, especially in metallic shades.

So, with Sports Luxe being the perfect pan-season trend I’d say you’ve got a whole year to perfect it and work out your take on the look.

Pixie xo

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

‘100% Egyptian Cotton’ Fashion Installation Launch at LFW

‘100% Egyptian Cotton’ Featured in the International Fashion Showcase 2017 Presented by Mercedes-Benz in conjunction with London Fashion Week

A fashion installation featuring the best emerging design talent from Egypt formed part of the International Fashion showcase for 2017 which runs in line with London Fashion Week.  Capitalising on the sheer number of fashionistas who descend on the capital each show season, ‘100% Egyption Cotton’ opened at Somerset House to rapturous applause.  The exhibition was curated by Susan Sabet, the Founder and Editor-in-Chief of Pashion Magazine, and one of the top 500 most influential people in the fashion industry according to the Business of Fashion.

“We are thrilled with the overwhelming response to the installation. Having fashion’s elite focus on our installation is a tribute to Egypt’s growing presence on the international fashion stage.”  Susan Sabet, Editor-in-Chief Pashion Magazine

Organised by the British Council, British Fashion Council and Mercedes-Benz, in association with London Fashion Week, the theme for this year’s showcase was Local/Global.  Taking place February 17th – 21st, viewing time was limited and therefore critical, I managed to shoehorn in a visit between shows and it provided a pleasant distraction, and was nice to view a presentation as a static show where the craftsmanship could be appreciated up close, breaking up the whirlwind of runway shows that make up London Fashion Week.

With the six featured designers (and me, obvs) present at the launch, the exhibit was a favourite amongst the fashion elite including Suzy Menkes and Hilary Alexander who chatted for some time with the designers responsible for the showcase.  With Egypt as the only Arab country to be represented in the 2017 showcase, it was an important triumph for the exhibit as it was named the most visited show stand throughout the residency.

Each featured accessories designer created one-off pieces based on their interpretation of the theme (100% Egyptian cotton), spanning from the lifecycle of the cotton plant, to the production of the final product.  RTW womenswear designers took classic men’s shirt in 100% Egyptian cotton as their canvas and embellished them with vibrant floral embroidery, referencing the clothing of young cotton farmers picking cotton flowers.

The exhibition is only in its second year so is still very new to London however if you’re in the capital for a visit during Fashion Week next February then I’d highly recommend it as somewhere to visit.  It’s centrally located just off The Strand and if you’re not actually attending LFW then it’s a great way to be involved in some of the fringe events that take place during show season, obvs it’s fashion related too so there’s a huge bonus there.

The exhibit looks set to return to London in February 2018 with no theme as yet but keep your ears peeled as this is one to add to your LFW list Voyeurs….

Pixie xo

Designers featured in the installation included:

MARAM PARIS – RTW Womenswear

NORINE FARAH – RTW Womenswear

MARSUMA BY NOUR OMAR – Painted Textiles

OKHTEIN – Handbags

SABRY MAROUF – Handbags / Jewellery

REEM JANO – Jewellery

 

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Categories: The Beauty Cupboard, The Fashion Closet

London Fashion Week FW17: CIMONE

LONDON FASHION WEEK FW17: CIMONE

London Fashion Week has been the talk of Fashion Month so far this season and it’s partly due to reinvention.  Each season one of the fashion capitals lags behind with an underwhelming collection of shows and another stands out for it’s bold, sometimes risque, play on fashion and trend prediction.

I’m excited about LFW this season and it’s because it’s off to an awesome start.  CIMONE showed an awesome, power packed collection for FW17 at Scout and was just the start of a season of bold, brave collections that played with femininity.  The exaggerated proportions which have long been a staple of CIMONE were present and a clash of the old and new in a breathtaking runway show.  Carli Pearson, founder and creative Director of CIMONE, trained at Central St. Martins and gained experience working with Stella McCartney, Alexander Wang and most recently, Alexander McQueen before launching CIMONE.  McQueen’s influence is laced throughout this collection; from the uber strong zombie beauty look, to the hair design straight out of Plato’s Atlantis, the collection is one tinged with the best memories of the late Lee McQueen and a fitting tribute.

I was there for what was set to be one of the talking points throughout the whole of LFW and I got to see first hand what went down at CIMONE FW17.  Let me tell you Voyeurs, it was freezing cold but pretty damn awesome.  The influence of McQueen was very apparent in some of the shapes, the collection felt nostalgic and familiar, I’m pleased to see houndstooth check as a carry forward trend for next season as it’s one of my favourite current trends.  If anything, this show season has lent itself to transition, carrying over more existing trends than ever before, introducing new, more playful ways of wearing them.

With the feminine form at the centre of this collection, elongated shoulders and sharp panniers frame the female silhouette, Pearson has a way with fabric, using it in experimental ways to create the illusion of textures one might have thought impossible.  Light, floaty silks are weighted to create restriction and heavy wools appear light and voluminous.  CIMONE is a brand rooted in its passion for craftsmanship and ability to defy the laws of convention and the expected.

CIMONE FW17 is a collection for strong women everywhere, for backstreet rebels fighting the cause and for women who dress for themselves.  Shapes are strong and over defined with ruffles making a re-appearance for next season, bolero jackets in stiff fabric and pelmets in a variety of shapes look set to be the standout shapes which will inevitably trickle down to the highstreet – expect to see cobalt blue and red everywhere come September.

So far this collection has been met with critical acclaim with Vogue Italia shooting a dedicated lookbook and British Vogue citing it as a season highlight.  I don’t know about you Voyeurs but I’m a huge fan of exaggerated proportions, the ability to create something extra from nothing is a wondrous thing and there’s just something about an elongated shoulder that harks back to the power silhouette of the 40’s. Blend that with the modernity of the British highstreet and you’ve got a powerful mix right there.  I’m looking forward to creating this look on the highstreet when Fall ’17 rolls around and can’t wait to see how the trends infiltrate your wardrobes.  Whether you’re conscious of it or not, these almighty runway shows dictate what you buy and when you buy it meaning everyone, whether they know it or not, is influenced by fashion and I predict that the highstreet shapes we see in Fall will be hugely influenced by the likes of CIMONE, one of my favourite shows of the season so far.  The show closed with a strong finale to Tainted Love by Marilyn Manson, models marched purposefully making a final statement before Pearson appeared briefly to wave to the crowd.

Keep it here for more from London Fashion Week, as you know we’ve had (more than) a few website issues recently so I’m working out the kinks and catching up!  I promise you Voyeurs, you won’t be disappointed!

Pixie xo

 

Pixie Tenenbaum Editor's signature with fashion illustration graphic