Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

Simon Mo SS19 at London Fashion Week

You know when show season rolls around and there’s a handful of designers that you always look forward to seeing?  Well Simon Mo is one of those for me and it’s because he’s a safe bet in many ways.  Mo is a designer who has his feet firmly in the sustainable fashion camp, an eco warrior with style, but there’s always a quirk within each collection, and that’s the thing that draws me in.  I’m all for sustainability and producing more ethical collections, however with so many designers more conscious of where their cotton is sourced now, and where their pieces are made, sometimes the fashion suffers at the hands of the message.

Simon Mo however, does both, really well.  This SS19 collection focusses on the nature and beauty of our world, with significant inspiration taken from the ocean.  It’s a fun, contemporary collection that despite its serious underlying message, manages to remain upbeat.  The nautical inspired collection focuses significantly on the ocean, and the impact of pollution as a direct result of human behaviour.  After seeing viral image “The sewage surfer” of a seahorse clingong tightly onto a q-tip taken by Justin Hofman in 2017, Mo used this as inspiration for his collection and to shine a light on the long term ecological damage caused by using plastics.  It’s a message we’re seeing more and more of in the fashion industry and this season we were all involved in the filming of a BBC documentary as part of the Stacey Dooley Investigates series which seeks to explore the effects of fast fashion.

Growing up on an island country, surrounded by sea, Mo felt a strong sense of personal responsibility and urgency to draw plastic pollution to people’s attention.  In that same vein, using the ocean as a frame of reference Mo initiated research with one of his favourite stories – Sinbad the Sailor. Full of adventure, myth and fantasy, the story tells of a time where gods and human alike revered the power of the ocean.  The collection itself was presented in runway format and maintained that playful edge we’ve come to know and expect from Mo, there’s a definite synonymous style there and it’s an aesthetic I’m a fan of.
Clean lines, obvious shades of blue throughout, references to vintage scuba diving suits in the elongated shoulders and the hats with dipped brims that now seem to be statement pieces throughout Mo’s collections.  SS19 Seas The Day is a collection with more of a purpose than just selling clothes.  In 2018 more designers than ever are recognising a need for change and responsibility.  The fashion industry is responsible for more than we are currently aware of as consumers and for designers to begin to move towards responsibility and sustainability is one big step.  Communicating a message through an ethically sourced and produced collection is another thing entirely.

Mo is a designer with a conscience, and one that I enjoy watching at work.

Pixie

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet, The Glorious North East, The Lifestyle Edit

Slaley Hall Summer Soiree

Northumberland has two modes, Summer and Winter and it looks equally beautiful in either.  Bo and I were invited to Slaley Hall in the heart of Northumberland for the annual Summer Soiree, held during the height of Summer.  Not just any Summer, the Summer of 2018, yeah, the one where we had actual heat and sunshine at the same time.

With the sun high in the sky we set off for Northumberland with the top down, our sunglasses on, and not a jacket in sight.  We arrived at Slaley Hall in the evening with the sun beating down on us like noon on a Summer day, the setting literally couldn’t have been more perfect.  Slaley Hall is as welcoming as it is imposing, this gorgeous castle / manor house never fails to impress and seems to project a different persona from every aspect.  Tonight though, we were there for a showcase in conjunction with Duke Ata Bespoke, a menswear label by one of my BFFs held in the gardens, natch.

Guests were treated to sunset themed mocktails and cocktails prepared using Durham Gin (the house gin at Slaley Hall) on arrival, alongside canapés that looked like delicious mini ice cream cones but turned out to be some kind of weird tunafish wafer thing.  As we walked out to the gardens, the view opened out over beautiful, uber green grass and perfectly trimmed trees.  A live singer played on the lawn for us whilst we chatted and enjoyed the rare occurrence of some evening sunshine, think Nikki Beach, with grass.

After a chance to catch up and chat, we were escorted to the Japanese Ornamental Garden further down in the grounds of Slaley Hall.  A feature that’s pretty well hidden, almost like a secret garden which casts the most perfect light over it’s red and purple leaves and super still pond.  At the entrance to the Garden there’s a stone bandstand type structure, we’re told it can be hired for private dining parties and decked out with lanterns, or used for smaller wedding ceremonies and I can’t help but think what a gorgeous moment that would make.  Today though we’re assembled to hear from Duke Ata about his latest venture, the Duke Ata Clubhouse.  If you haven’t already read my post about the Clubhouse launch event you can find it here.  Duke and his team spoke about their quest to find the perfect base for the Duke Ata Bespoke brand and how as well as the bespoke tailoring range, the brand will now produce a ready to wear collection for men comprising suiting, shirts, socks and shoes, all available to view on the rack at the Duke Ata Bespoke clubhouse in Jesmond.

After his informal presentation, I grabbed Duke for a chat about some of the intricacies of how the Clubhouse will operate and in his usual relaxed tone, he told me that it’s there to be used, basically if a client wants an appointment the team will make it happen.  A driver will be sent to pick up the client from any North East location to bring them to the studio where they’ll chat about personality, style, likes and dislikes so that Duke can get a feel for what the client needs.  After that, the process begins and the suit is crafted to the exact specifications for that particular client.  It’s simple, but also elaborate and it’s a very client-centric approach.  Obviously I know all of this, I hang out there, I’ve even played the vintage piano that sits in the Clubhouse.

Sunset over Slaley Hall at the Summer soiree in Northumberland

At the end of the evening we make our way back across the manicured lawns to the main Slaley Hall building and I can’t help but notice just how beautiful it looks in the Northumberland sunset, right here in the UK.

Pixie

 

Categories: The Archives, The Glorious North East

The one where Fashion Voyeur goes to Friends Fest

You undoubtedly know the hit TV show Friends, the show that spawned endless catchphrases, infamous scenes and at least three scene stealing hairstyles.  It’s iconic, and if you’re thinking of revisiting it, it still holds up today.  Did you also know that there’s also a mini festival dedicated to all things Friends?  2018 is the second year Comedy Central have brought their Friends Fest to the UK promising to be bigger and better than 2017 with the addition of Ross Geller’s apartment set.  I didn’t get to visit Friends fest last year as I wasn’t in the UK but this year, when the invite dropped, I hit up the Ross to my Monica and we dusted off our high school dance routine just in case.  Get ready for an awesome image heavy post….

fashion voyeur written and represented in the style of the Friends TV show logo for the Fashion Voyeur blog post about 2018's Friends Fest from Comedy Central UK

We arrived at Friends Fest on one of the hottest evenings of the year which was perfect as some of the photo opps are outdoors and look way better against a cloudless blue sky, it’s staged in a field in a series of marquees and offers the chance to recreate some of the most iconic scenes from the TV show, and the chance to pose for pictures wearing clothes from some of the most memorable scenes, including THOSE wedding dresses.

With the sun still beating down, we headed inside to recreate the titles followed swiftly by the infamous PIVOT! scene – could we BE any more excited?!

Just around the corner is central Perk, a full scale set built to replicate the coffee house including the famous window decals which appear in every single one of the 236 episodes of Friends.  One half is a working coffee shop where you can order food and drink, the other side is spookily accurate.  As you face the set, it’s presented from the same perspective as the TV show was shot, looking on to the orange sofa with the performance area (Smelly Cat anyone?) to the right, and the counter to the left.  As far as set builds go, this is impressive, even the cups are a match.

CENTRAL PERK!

As part of Friends Fest there are set tours facilitated by your very own tour guide, as you wait for the tour to begin, you get the chance to view some of the actual, original props and set pieces from the TV show.  They’re tucked away inside glass boxes and have designated handlers because yes Voyeurs, they’re worth THAT much.  A box of soap powder from the set is valued at $4k and Phoebe’s guitar is valued at $19k but standing proudly in the corner is Gladys, the “artwork” made by Phoebe and it’s valued at a cool $16k.

When you enter the set tour for the first time, as a fan of the show and someone who’s watched all 236 episodes over ten series, several times, it’s pretty overwhelming.  These guys work to a two day build to ensure these sets are an exact replica of what you see on screen and the attention to detail is impeccable.  The scale is perfect, the placement is on point and you feel like you’re part of something really special when you take that first step into Joey & Chandler’s apartment.  The entertainment unit locked with an ice hockey stick, the canoe and those famous recliners, it’s all there and you’re encouraged to get amongst it.

Next on the tour is the famous hallway and this too is an exact replica, staged in between Monica’s and Joey & Chandler’s apartments exactly as the TV set was built.

Comedy Central UK's Friends Fest 2018: Pixie Tenenbaum and her brother sitting on the step in the hallway between Monica'sd and Joey & Chandler's apartments

If you’re a fan of the show (and why wouldn’t you be??) the next steps you’ll take on the tour will be the most surreal.  As you step into Monica’s apartment it takes a little while to drink it all in and if I’m completely honest I’m a little overcome with emotion.  Everything, from the shade of purple on the wall to the frame on the door, it’s all perfect.  You know that famous yellow frame on Monica’s door?  That was originally a mirror which was to be used elsewhere until it was smashed on set by a member of the crew and put there as a joke.

TASTES LIKE FEET

Last stop on the tour is Ross’ apartment.  This set is brand new for 2018 and it’s been meticulously planned for the past 12 months in order to get it looking perfect.

The festival is small, the clue is in the title, it’s a mini festival dedicated to celebrating all things Friends.  There’s a pop up cinema playing the most iconic moments from the series on repeat and it’s bound to have you laughing along.  There’s Friends themed food and a bar serving themed cocktails which is stocked with board games and there’s a gift shop too if you feel the need to stock up on Friends memorabilia that you won’t find anywhere else.

Personally we loved it.  We had an awesome time there and loved recreating the titles, the weather was great which just enhanced the evening, plus, i got to hang out with my little brother too which is always a pleasure.  If you’re a fan of the TV show Friends, and Friends Fest is being staged somewhere near you then it’s well worth a visit and you’ll get some awesome pictures out of it too.  It’s spurred us on to start watching the show from the very beginning too so we’ll have new material for next year…

P x

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet, The Glorious North East

Finding Your feet with Vintage

Vintage clothing is perceived as a bit of an acquired taste, it’s something people seem to either really love, or think they’ll hate.  I’m here to tell you that vintage can be for everyone, you just have to look past that idea that it’s musty, smelly old clothes that was once worn by old ladies surrounded by cats.  For an item to qualify as vintage it must be over 20 years old, meaning that clothing from the 90’s is now officially classified as vintage.  All those Kookai and Morgan de Toi pieces you saved your pocket money to buy are now collectors items and worth a pretty penny.

There are many reasons that the revival of clothes from decades gone by is such a popular choice in fashion right now:

  1. You’re guaranteed to get something unique.  You’ll find something that will make you stand out from the crowd, providing you know where to look to source really great vintage.
  2. You’re promoting sustainable and revived fashion.  By giving a garment new life, re-using, re-working and re-loving something, you’re helping to prevent waste and are part of the cause against fast fashion and sweat shop produced fashion.
  3. You support a small business.  It’s no mean feat trying to source good quality vintage clothing, someone has spent time, money and effort searching for those pieces.
  4. You’re making a statement.  You’re saying that you don’t need mass produced high street clothing in your wardrobe for every day of the week.
  5. It’s a great way to experiment with fashion from different eras, vintage can be affordable, contrary to popular belief, and you won’t bump into anyone else wearing the same piece

How do you source good vintage clothing?

It’s hard to find good quality vintage clothing these days, and with the 90’s revival maintaining pace, stock is at a premium.  Vintage fairs are a great place to start, Britain Does Vintage and Judy’s Affordable Vintage Fair have seasonal pop ups all over the country and invite the best retailers from the surrounding areas to sell their stock.  The great thing about vintage fairs is that they sell way more than just clothing, you’ll find hats, accessories and tea sets perfect for serving gin, prohibition style, amongst the treasures on offer.  If I’m looking for jewellery, trinkets or era specific clothing, I head to Clerkenwell Vintage Fair which runs seasonally at Freemason’s Hall in Holborn, London.

Vintage stores are more tricky, in the North East we have Trendlistr studio (who also sell online via their website) in uber cool Commercial Union House.  The fuschia pink studio creeps with ivy on the outside and inside is a wonder emporium like no other.  Selling high quality vintage clothing, shoes and accessories sourced from all over the world, owner Louisa tells me that the best vintage clothing comes from France.  Whether it’s a particular Hermes scarf, Miu Miu shoes or just a printed shift dress, you’ll find it at Trendlistr.  In fact, I don’t think I’ve ever visited and not bought something, it has the highest concentration of great quality vintage pieces in one place that I’ve ever come across.

I was actually recently asked to collaborate with Trendlistr and shoot a selection of Summer stock for the website including an awesome Beverly Goldberg-esque jumpsuit that I’m kicking myself for not buying.  You’ll be able to see the images pretty soon, but for now here’s a few I took behind the scenes.

For a more youthful vibe It Girls Vintage in the North East offers re-worked pieces and lots of denim in different shapes and cuts.  Those Mom jeans you’re buying for £40 in Topshop are great, but you could find some 80’s and 90’s originals at It Girls.

Online; try eBay but approach with caution, it’s filled with sellers who use the term ‘vintage’ very loosely so make sure you read everything, check the pictures and if you’re still not sure, then ask questions!  Some sellers will call something vintage, when they mean vintage style or retro which are very, very different.

What should I look for?

Literally anything that catches your eye!  The beauty of vintage is that whilst it doesn’t run to a specific trend, you often find that some pieces have come full circle and are fashionable again.  I recently scoured the high street for a double breasted checked jacket in the style of one Margot Robbie was snapped wearing, after three weeks of turning up shit quality pieces online and in-store, I found an awesome vintage piece that fit the bill perfectly.

Think outside the box, I have a vintage wedding dress that’s just quirky enough to pass for formal wear and recently I sourced an amazing floor length velvet gown that looks like it was shipped straight from the set of a Florence and the Machine promo.  With vintage clothing you can be more daring, you can push the envelope and achieve more than you can with high street pieces alone.  For Fashion Month I always try to source new and interesting vintage pieces for my collection so that I can guarantee I won’t bump into someone wearing the same thing.  So many times I’ve seen women wearing the same clothes and shoes sat just a few spaces apart on the Frow – talk about a glitch in the matrix.

Pixie xo

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

Winchester School of Art Graduate Runway Show

The Winchester School of Art is proud to be one of the UK’s leading art and design institutions and part of the world renowned University of Southampton.  An international centre for ideas and innovation, they have a history which spans almost 150 years.  Ranked among the top 1% of universities worldwide, the University of Southampton is recognised as a global centre for excellence in research and education. Their reputation, which is reflected in their UK and international league table rankings, is built on a long history of world-changing achievements.  96% of graduates go straight into employment or further study, over 75% of which is graduate level (Destinations of Leavers from Higher Education Survey, 2015/16), now those are some impressive stats.

The Programme for Fashion & Textile Design at Winchester School of Art is alway one that produces talented graduates and alumni – it’s over-subscription reflects that.  This year, twenty out of their fifty students were selected to showcase their graduate collections at a show following Graduate Fashion Week, hand picked by a panel consisting of Cozette McCreery, Sibling, Clare Copland, Production Element, Sophia Malig, By Walid, Lisa Burn-Hunter, WSA Knitwear Tutor and Cecilia Langemar MA RCA, Programme Leader Fashion & Textile Design for Winchester School of Art.

“This was my first time on the WSA panel, I didn’t know much about the institute which sounds bad but we can be so lazy when based in central London that we often don’t look beyond what we already know. I was intrigued to see what the students had to offer. The freedom given to them in comparison to other universities is clear. When actually selecting from the 50 students I have to go for my gut reaction. There were quite a few collections that honestly, I loved instantaneously so that was easy. Others I felt had a place because they looked cohesive and a few where the student had obviously had fun with their ideas and offered real show-pieces. You must take into consideration the flow of the final running order and what will make a good show a GREAT one. This sometimes means that the more accomplished, yet quieter collections don’t get to catwalk but having an exciting catwalk creates a buzz for everyone so it’s important to show the really visual looks as an introduction to the overall output of the student’s work”.  Cozette McCreery, Sibling.

As far as Fashion design courses in the UK go, there are a few which stand out as amongst the best.  One of those is right here in the North East in the form of Northumbria University and amongst the others is Winchester School of Arts.  The institute prides itself on producing highly creative, skilled and hands on design graduates suitable for a range of positions within the Fashion Industry upon completion of their degree course.

Each year graduates take up roles in prestigious companies internationally and in the UK.  The 2018 show presented pieces from: Sofi Lever; Ning Kang; Abigail Skrentny; Grace Haggerty; Jasmine Lynch; Isabella del Zoppo; Becky Chandler; Lauren Sampson; Ashleigh Cameron; Holly Baxter; Zoe Lyne; Madison Weight; Evie Knott; Rui Cheng; Ezgi Gunay; Jessye Bolton; Hannah Franks; Chiara Bradfield; Yuxin Li and Ruje Aktar to an audience of super cool peeps including myself, who were engaged throughout.  It’s easy to forget that these designers are graduates when you’re watching the show.  From the production, to the casting and right through to the quality of the design and manufacture of each garment, the standard is as you would expect from London Fashion Week.  It’s undoubtable that we’ll see some of these designers showing full collections on the runways of fashion Scout in the coming years.

A further ten students were selected to present one complete mannequin outfit The Vinyl Factory as part of an innovative display of fashion design techniques: Charlotte Oliver; Courtney Wheeler; Yaming Zhang; Elena Hillier; Diva de Sa Menezes; Claudia Friel; Evie Cox; Anna Bateman; Maddy Page and Ellie Biggs made up the cohort.

“The panel select the students based on originality, creativity, professional execution and finish, silhouettes and colour story, level of pattern cutting and construction, ‘catwalkability’ and wow factor and a sense of a fully formed coherent collection. WSA BA Students are very able designers in terms of creative concepts realised to a professional standard in terms of make and finish. Most of our students progress into industry straight away after the BA course into a range of companies and studios, from Alexander McQueen and Victoria Beckham to Asos and Topshop. Some of the fabrications this year have been outstanding from both the Fashion and Knitwear students with some handmade woven leather fabrics, creative hand embroidery and embellishment and some innovative knitted fabrics with stunning yarn combinations”.

Cecilia Langemar MA RCA, Programme Leader Fashion & Textile Design for Winchester School of Art

 

Pixie Tenenbaum Editor's signature with fashion illustration graphic