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Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: Fashion

London Fashion Week FW17: N&S GAIA presents The Hybrid

SS17 has given fashion lovers more trends, sub trends and micro trends than we can shake a stick at, each of them totally wearable and lustworthy. (I’m looking at you gingham).  If I’m honest, SS17 is when Fashion Month got its mojo back (with the exception of NYFW which was a soaking wet, drowning squib).  FW17 had a tough act to follow and early shows out of the gate at NYFW showed promise.  Now Voyeurs if you don’t know, pay attention: LFW is the younger, fresher, funkier sister of NYFW, the one that everyone loves and wants to cheat with, so as all eyes turned to the British fashion capital we expected great and wonderful things….

The early days of every capital’s Fashion Week are designated for the relatively unknown, new or emerging design talent and these are often some of the best shows you’ll see.  With these showcases and presentations there’s zero expectation, often because we haven’t seen seasons previous or the label hasn’t quite established its niche.  Enter N&S GAIA, a rising star in Indian fashion and originating from New Delhi, the label has contributed to the successful rebirth and modernisation of Dakmanda – a hand-woven embroidery technique of the Garo tribe in North East India.  The brand is also a major proponent of the exploration of upcycling and use of sustainable fabrics. Dedicated to its pillars, the ‘N’ and ‘S’ in N&S GAIA standing for Nature and Sustainability.

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Founded by designer, Sidharth Sinha in 2013, the brand made its second LFW runway appearance at Fashion Scout this show season.  I hotfooted it over to the Freemason’s Hall wearing the most perfect vintage skirt and an incredibly rude tee to bring you the lowdown on this relatively undiscovered label.

Following on from the SS17 collection, which was shown in both London and Paris, and given a coveted Vogue Online collections report, N&S GAIA carries forward its signature style of colourful flowing silks punctuated by wide-legs, exaggerated ruffles, sweeping hems, bold, painterly appliqué and tapestry embroidery.

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Exploring a deep, dark facet of meta-modernism, the FW17 collection, entitled The Hybrid, is centred on nature photography and existential transformation.  Models walked the runway wearing simplistic pieces which grew bolder as the show progressed, starting relatively tame and occasionally rising above the parapet with something more dramatic.  Soft, blurred lines adorned with tapestry embroidery and shapes which reflect the brand’s Indian heritage were the order of the day set in a muted colour palette, sometimes accented with a pop of metallic.

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Shapes were fluid with constructed drapes offset by elements like wide flares, pleating and voluminous sleeves.  Surfaces including the handwoven details of the Dakmanda mix with metallic embroidery echoing the hybrid forms in nature.

Nature starts with almost nothing, just a molecule; where humanity plays the role of the transformation.

A pioneer of sustainability in Indian fashion, N&S GAIA aims to use a balance of hand-woven textiles blended with mill-woven fabric and natural dyes in an effort to push the brand to the forefront of the fashion industry’s natural progression.  Textile and craft are at the core of N&S GAIA and that’s evident in both the craftsmanship and the attention to detail in the embellishment.

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Yes, it’s tame compared to some of the stalwarts of Fashion Month but it’s not just about the drama.  This collection is wearable, relatable and ultimately, sustainable.  This is a brand with a vision and some sense of direction, there are consistencies throughout the collection and that’s great news for a relatively new label.  Measurable progression is key in the fashion industry and time is a key ingredient for progression.  Fashion Scout is known for nurturing design talent so I’m interested to see how the RTW collection is received following show season.

I’ll be back for more in September for SS18 and N&S GAIA’s next power move…

Pixie xo

Categories: Fashion, Uncategorized

London Fashion Week SS17

If there’s one Fashion Week that’s associated with new talent and a passion for supporting the underdog, it’s London Fashion Week; and with the likes of Prophetik, Gareth Pugh and Mulberry all showing strong collections, it looks like the bar is set to keep on rising.

I’m headed to London SUPER early in the morning for three jam packed days of shows and events and a special something from one of my all time favourite designers (more on that later).

Stay tuned Voyeurs, after a very mediocre NYFW, I’m predicting big things from London.  BIG things….

Pixie xo

 

Categories: Fashion, Uncategorized

Prophetik presents Nevermore: SS17

London Fashion Week.  The most urban and exciting of all Fashion Weeks and definitely the one most likely to show and breed hot new talent in the fashion industry.  A hotbed for creativity, London is home to some of the best designers in the world, some of whom manage to fly under the radar of most non-fashion folk – Fuggles if you will…

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Step forward Prophetik.  An uber cool brand founded by award-winning designer, Jeff Garner in Tennessee, USA, Prophetik is the sartorial result of Garner’s take on visual art, blended with his  pioneering stance on sustainability. Garner was designated as one of 40 top artists in America, resulting in his work being exhibited in one of the world’s most famous museums, The Smithsonian.

With sustainability at the core of the brand, Prophetik is the fashion label you never knew you knew.  Garner has dressed Taylor Swift, Rihanna, Gisele Bundchen, Miley Cyrus, Cameron Diaz, Livia Firth, Julia Stiles, Joe Jonas, Nick Jonas and Kings of Leon; and he has reached into the technological sphere, partnering with Apple and Griffin to create sustainable iPhone cases, which were revealed on the catwalk at London Fashion Week, where Cara Delevingne both opened and closed the show.

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Spring forward to today, day 2 of LFW and Garner is back in a big way with his SS17 offering: Nevermore, which took place at the Tower of London.  If the venue conjures up images of gothic romance then you’re definitely on the right track.

Jeff Garner’s spring/summer show, under his label Prophetik, nods to love lost and the notion that in the depths of a shadowy, dark void, light is exposed and wisdom can be found.

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Heritage set the foundation of Nevermore. An American archetype – descended from Yorkshire settlers and the Native American Cherokee – Garner and his family have been residing in the state of Tennessee for seven generations, dating back to the land grant from Lord Fairfax. Mary Crane, daughter of chief Whooping Crane of the Cherokee Nation in Tennessee was Garner’s great, great, great grandmother and looking back to this Native American ancestry and its traditional folklore, Garner examined the raven, which featured on this season’s invitation. The raven is a symbol of a light-bringer – one which gifts humanity with understanding and discernment holding the ideal of balance. On the contrary, pulling from the English side of his ancestry, in Celtic lore, the raven was the goddess of war and strife.

“The raven shows us how to go into the dark of our inner self and bring the light of our true self to healing and creation, cultivating renewal, recycling, and reflection.”  – Jeff Garner

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Tradition and artisan craftsmanship collide, underwritten in Garner’s signature use of romantic shapes. Working with black and dark navy silhouettes, which he has steered away from in previous spring/summer collections, Nevermore borders on sombre with hints of whimsy and the ethereal. Black, naturally shed duck feathers symbolise raven feathers, while salmon sustainable leather, hemp silk, Tussah (peace silk), and hand-woven Dupioni appear, all of which are hand dyed with plant based hues at the Prophetik studio in Tennessee.

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The show opened with Prophetik’s recently launched intimates collection followed by Prêt-à-Porter  and ending with Garner’s statement making ballgowns, designed around the theme of a gothic wedding.

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With a live soundtrack provided by Suzy Amis Cameron and Dorado, the show was firmly rooted in Tennessee

“Nevermore is a remembrance and in honour to all of those who have loved and lost.”  – Jeff garner

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A collection steeped in tradition, that sticks firmly to its own ethos of ethics and sustainable production while edging towards the dramatic, Prophetik might just be one to watch Voyeurs…

Pixie xo

 

Categories: Fashion, North East, Uncategorized

Kathryn Trueman presents Inbal Dror to the North East

This week Newcastle was treated to a very special bridal couture show, unlike anything the region has seen before and I was there to bring you the scoop….

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Bridal couture is big business and Israeli designer Inbal Dror has been a leader on the scene for some time, slowly amassing a following of fans who appreciate her unique craftsmanship and attention.  A skill that puts Dror one step ahead of the pack when it comes to creating standout bridal couture.  A graduate of The Shenkar Fashion Art Academy in Tel Aviv, Dror is a pioneer when it comes to couture, creating gowns that transcend the bridal genre with Beyonce opting to wear one of the standout pieces from the 2016 collection for The Grammy Awards.

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With a focus on accentuating the female form by using soft, moveable materials over more traditional and thicker materials, Inbal Dror’s creations have to be seen and experienced to be believed.  Known for being a little more risqué than the average bridal designer, Dror offers something for those brides who want to feel a little more desirable.

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The perfect bridal brand to collaborate with Kathryn Trueman then; Kathryn lends her name to what is probably the North East’s premier bridal boutique.  Nestled in the heart of olde worlde Morpeth with a quaint and understated shop front, an impressive boutique lies beyond with couture and more spread over two floors.  Kathryn has an unparalleled knowledge of bridal couture and can size you up in an instant.  Within five minutes of arriving she’ll have you upstairs and into a gown you never knew you needed – it’s just what she does.  With daughter in law Emily by her side, they are a formidable force on the North East bridal scene and one you need to know about.

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Kathryn Trueman Bridal Boutique, Picture by Adamskii Photography

Hence being the natural choice for the Inbal Dror Trunk Show; left with full creative control over the show, Kathryn and Emily wanted to give revellers the chance to get up close and personal with these show-stopping gowns and so came up with the idea of the #RUNFREE Trunk Show.  (That’s the official hashtag and there are some amazing pictures on social media)

I have to say I was excited about this one, I’ve had my eye on an Inbal Dror gown for a little while now (not for a wedding, just because I can).  Invites stated that guests should arrive at 6.30pm prompt at the Millennium Bridge for a “surprise pre-event” so up I rocked in my half wedding dress, baby pink boots & “Surfboard” tee, right on cue with Miss Durham GB, Taylor Hamilton as my guest for the evening.

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The opening act was indeed memorable, a bridal “flash mob” arrived by stretch limousine to the Newcastle Quayside at sunset and with the sidewalk as their runway, five brides strutted to perfection while their audience was left gasping in awe.  Making their way to the centre of the Millennium Bridge – they strutted and the paparazzi followed.   At the Gateshead side, models posed for photographs at The Baltic Mill and literally walked off into the sunset.  As far as flashmobs go this was the most romantic, I fell in love with all five of those girls that night.

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after moving up the The Sage, guests were treated to a champagne reception and goodie bags from my bridal publishing home, Belle Bridal before taking their place on the Frow for the show.

Exercise caution Voyeurs, you’re about to see couture so beautiful you’re going to want to down told and propose to the person closest to you….

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With a live soundtrack provided by Le Sape Nocturne, a collective of eight musicians from the North East and a little further afield, these guys take infamous musical numbers from all genres and re-spin them with a little Le SAPE magic to create music you’ve never heard before, except you have.  Perfect for a bridal showcase of this calibre.

Models walked the runway in a range of styles from the Inbal Dror 2016 ‘New York’ collection which oozes glamour and decadence.  From the classic full length bridal gown to the shorter, more modern backless gown, the collection drew gasps from the crowd of press and potential brides alike.

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Obvs this much concentrated gorgeousness carries a hefty price tag, but not as hefty as you might think.  With Beyonce’s (read ‘my’) gown at £8k that’s pretty affordable, and covetable, couture right there.  Sure you could pick up a car for that price but let’s face it, you won’t look as good in it as you will in this gown.

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With gowns this pretty I’m considering taking on a part time second husband, or maybe two….

Pixie xo

The collection can be viewed at Kathryn Trueman Bridal, 42, Bridge Street, Morpeth, Northumberland, NE61 1NL

For appointments call: (01670) 511917

Categories: Pixie, Uncategorized

Sunderland Fashion Weekend

If you live in the North East, you’re probably already familiar with Newcastle Fashion Week, but 2016 brings us a new stylish younger sister in the form of Sunderland Fashion Weekend.  Making its debut at The bridges Shopping Centre, this weekend saw the north East Fash Pack flock to the shopping centre for fashion advice, runway shows and offers galore.

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As a preview to what was in store for shoppers, I was invited to sit on the Frow at the VIP runway show hosted by Heart Radio’s Kellyanne Scott and featuring clothes which were all available to purchase at stores in the Bridges Shopping Centre, Sunderland.  I wore my trusty Warehouse shorts, Chanel boots and an Ivy Park tank and was greeted on arrival with a glass of Prosecco before being shown to my seat.

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The show opened with local singer / songwriter and super gorgeous model Afnan Prince showcasing relaxed casual menswear and started as it meant to go on; dynamic, energetic and fun – an absolute must for a shopping centre runway show.  Models from local agency Tyne Tees Models danced, role-played and strutted to fun, upbeat songs and the fashion was current and relevant with SS16 clothing and accessory offerings from Topshop, Select Fashion, Debenhams and many more.

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One of the real unique things about Sunderland Fashion Weekend is that throughout the whole event, each runway show showcased different looks, from different stores.  So if you hit the mall at 10.30 and were still there at 14.30, you’d have the opportunity to see three different shows, all short, sharp and to the point and all definitely on trend for SS16.  Sunderland Fashion Weekend was about so much more than just runway shows though, it was about supporting local business and opening up to new audiences.  By showcasing the current trends on the runway, shoppers were shown how to put key looks together for SS16 by making them completely accessible and wearable for Sunderland shoppers, nothing outlandish, nothing crazy, just real fashion, for real people.

Fusionz Hair and Beauty were on hand (literally) to provide bespoke henna tattoo designs for customers, admittedly a business I’d have never known about if it wasn’t for Sunderland Fashion Weekend and definitely one I’d use again.  My partner in crime, Joni and I stayed behind afterwards chatting to the Artist and business owner and looking at some one her amazing creations.

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Joni deep in concentration
Joni deep in concentration
My partner in crime, Joni
My partner in crime, Joni

There’s no doubt that Sunderland Fashion Weekend has been a real success for the city and as a debut, was put together spectacularly well with a focus on sustaining local business rather than fast fashion.

I can’t wait to see what 2017 brings for Sunderland, maybe a full fashion week?  After the success of Sunderland Fashion Weekend 2016 I certainly hope so….

Pixie x

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Pixie Tenenbaum 2024

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People will stare, make it worth their while

Pixie Tenenbaum

FASHION VOYEUR

Freelance Fashion and Beauty Writer
Currently taking review slots
Hire Me: pixie.tenenbaum@gmail.com

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RION Magazine Fashion Editor

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Copywriter/Editor/Proofreader/Journo in fashion, fashion history & language Currently: Fashion Ed @rionmagazine & @so.edited.co Fashion Innovation @shopbyshape

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etnow Entertainment Tonight @etnow ·
6 May

THE material girl Madonna has made her way to the #MetGala. 💅

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voguemagazine Vogue Magazine @voguemagazine ·
6 May

#Rihanna is pregnant! The singer announced her pregnancy in the most fashionable way ever: the 2025 #MetGala. See all of the details here: https://www.vogue.com/article/rihanna-2025-met-gala-red-carpet-fashion

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6 May

She’s glowing! Cardi B looks stunning at the #MetGala. #LiveFromE

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