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Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: Uncategorized

Fashion Futures Hosts Henry Holland & Laura Weir in Conversation

This week saw the launch of Fashion Futures in Newcastle, an event set up in place of Newcastle Fashion Week this year to celebrate the emerging design talent from Northumbria University, who have been delivering outstanding Fashion Design courses for sixty years.

The two day programme had a jam-packed schedule full of great events for both industry insiders and the public with the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art playing host to the whole event providing a hub and backdrop to this awesome celebration of homegrown talent.  Think of it as the North East’s Somerset House / Brewer Street carpark.

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über cool designer Henry Holland visited the region to participate in Fashion Talks with Laura Weir, Fashion Features Editor for British Vogue.  The auditorium was packed out for this event with Editors, Bloggers, Fashion students and people with a genuine passion for fashion and it didn’t disappoint.  The pair took to the all white stage, Laura Weir looking slick in a House of Holland midi dress and biker jacket and Henry Holland looking every inch the off-duty designer in black skinnies, Dr Marten boots and a denim jacket from his own collection with neon highlights.

I threw on a pair of Zara pants, an off Duty tee and some Prada shoes to take my seat on the front row and bring you the skinny.

IMG_3862 NE1's Fashion Futures - 14-05 - High Res No Logo-5

This particular segment of Fashion Talks was billed as Henry Holland and Laura Weir in Conversation and that’s exactly what it was.  The Pair have been firm friends for a long time and it showed, the conversation was fun and upbeat with Weir asking probing and considered questions giving thought to what the audience would want to learn about Holland.  We learned how he began his career – he was actually rejected from a Fashion Design course and studied Journalism at University but hated it!  We got to hear that his mum told him when he was younger that “We get eight careers” in our lifetime and he proceeds to talk about his early careers at now defunct Smash Hits and Bliss magazines.  It raises a giggle from the audience when Holland talks about his iconic breakout tee collection and how they were borne out of a drunken conversation one night with friends.  Hearing this makes the designer seem more real, more accessible and more human.

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The pair laugh as they reminisce about those now infamous slogan tees, (FYI I’m the proud owner of Do Me Daily Christopher Bailey and Flick Your Bean for Agyness Deyn) and how a whole career was started on four rhyming couplets.

Holland talks passionately about that time in his life, saying that those tees were just the start of things, they “were like a football shirt or band T-shirt for the fashion industry” and gave people who “maybe couldn’t afford a Christopher Kane dress a way of supporting the industry” by wearing a playful Cum Again Christopher Kane tee, almost like making a statement that you belonged.  Holland went on to talk about how these tees allowed him to create a “strong visual DNA” for the brand.

He tells the audience about his first time showing at London Fashion Week as part of Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East in 2006 and how he only realised it was an Autumn / Winter show moments before go time and his House of Holland collection was all short-sleeved T-shirts.  He goes on to say that following this, he took constructive criticism wherever he could and went on to build a small team of staff and completed a full collection including eyewear, accessories and footwear.

It’s easy to feel like you’ve known the pair for years, watching them talk and joke with each other on stage is comforting, there’s no snobbery and when asked by an audience member if he feels that a University education is essential in order to break into the fashion industry Holland says absolutely not.  He admits that it takes willpower and that he still encounters snobbery because he had no formal design training, but says that he wouldn’t change anything throughout his career so far and that he’s “happy to share his mistakes” if it helps others in their quest to enter the famously guarded fashion industry.

Holland has wise words for budding designers too, he advises ” Stay true to your brand, its DNA and what you are trying to say through your clothes.”  the designer muses that he loves that people can personify with his brand and its message.  He goes on to say that he admires what Paul Smith has created, “a quintessentially British brand that has absolutely retained its Paul Smith vibe”.

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When asked whether he finds his role glamorous, Holland is quick to say “no”, he elaborates by saying that the celebrities he’s so often photographed with are his original group of friends since childhood and that celebrity is just a “side effect of their jobs”.

So what’s next for Henry Holland?  Well the designer has recently moved into menswear and would love to open his own physical store in London in order to create a “curated environment” for the customer.  He’s asked a great question by the editor of Darkus magazine: If he could give this part of his life a chapter name, what would it be?  After a short pause, Holland smiles and says ” I think it would have to be, What the Fuck Just Happened?!”  He goes on to tell us that there is actually a book on the horizon charting his life so far, if this talk is an introduction then this book is sure to make for an interesting read and is certainly something I’d read.

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His last question is from a young designer in the audience who asks whether it’s important to base yourself in London as a designer.  Both Holland and Weir are resolute in saying “no”.  Although both admit that it makes things easier, Weir claims that being outside of London could actually work to a designers advantage “you already know your audience and market and don’t have the competition” that there is in London.  Both firmly agree that the most important thing for young designers to have is passion and drive and a will to succeed.

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The pair thank the audience for their involvement and with that they’re off all smiles and waves.  Hats off to the organisers NE1, this was funny, interesting and engaging and the time flew by.  The format absolutely worked and the duo left the audience wanting more, in fact some of the younger Fashion students were discussing those sage words of advice afterwards.

If Henry Holland hasn’t been on your radar, firstly, where have you been?! And secondly, check him out.  At the end of the day as we discovered, he’s just a normal, down to earth guy with an insane amount of talent and some cool friends who happen to be celebrities.  He’s got a really awesome story to tell and pretty soon it could be on a bookshelf near you.

Pixie x

Categories: Uncategorized

NE1 Fashion Futures

The North East’s very own annual fashion event Newcastle Fashion Week is taking a break this year and instead will be replaced with a two day, jam-packed event called Fashion Futures. In line with the 60th anniversary of the Fashion department at Northumbria University, one of the most influential and highly regarded institutions for fashion study in Europe.  The groundbreaking Fashion Futures event will acknowledge the University’s contribution to the fashion industry and will showcase the talent of current students, graduates and alumni.

Held over two days at the BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art in Gateshead, the event will provide a fresh new take on the Fashion Week that the city has become accustomed to and will be condensed into two days rather than the usual full week.  The event will include a graduate runway show from Northumbria University’s Class of 2015 on Day One which will no doubt see an influx of international buyers and editors to Newcastle and Gateshead.

Day Two brings Fashion Talks, a series of three talks which aims to help and support young people in breaking into the fashion industry, the line up for these talks includes contemporary fashion designer Henry Holland and Editor in Chief of UK Vogue, Alexandra Shulman.  A panel discussion will be another attraction of Fashion Talks with fashion industry experts including three local designers who all graduated from our very own Northumbria University; Michelle Taylor founder of luxury lingerie brand, Tallulah Love; Charis Younger, Menswear Designer at All Saints; Kate Ablett, Berghaus designer, and Darren Spurling, Managing Director of international footwear designer Terry De Havilland.

The ever popular Fashion Front Row event will return as part of this new fixture on the evening of May 14th providing a showcase for emerging North East talent, I’ll be there covering both days to bring you live updates from the FROW and to blog about the event as a whole and I’m looking forward to seeing what the Class of 2015 has to show.

So however you feel about this event replacing Newcastle Fashion Week, you’ve got to sign up to stay in the know, to sign up for alerts and ticket releases for Fashion Futures visit: NE1 Fashion Futures

Pixie x

Categories: Uncategorized

Rising Star: Kelly Shaw London

Last Sunday saw the close of Capsule in Paris; Capsule is the premiere gathering of the finest apparel and accessories brands from around the world. More than a tradeshow, the brands who participate in Capsule make up a community that is shaping the future fashion landscape.

The FW15 Capsule collective set up shop in Tapis Rouge for three days to coincide with Paris Fashion Week and provided a platform for fresh and emerging talent to showcase their FW15 womenswear collections.  Amongst the designers presenting at Capsule was Brit Kelly Shaw who set up her womenswear label Kelly Shaw London in 2011.    Part of the Young British Designers collective, Shaw is undoubtedly one of the most innovative and exciting designers to emerge from London and her FW15 collection entitled The Liminal Journey, is testament to that.  Clearly influenced by Victoria Beckham, Shaw’s collection is made up of clean, simple lines and bold proportions.

Linda Smock with Open Back £349
Linda Smock with Open Back £349
British Mohair Tartan Coat with Patch Pocket Detail £1200
British Mohair Tartan Coat with Patch Pocket Detail £1200
Julia Wool Shift Dress £399
Julia Wool Shift Dress £399
Roberta Swing Cotton Dress £299
Roberta Swing Cotton Dress £299
White Dolly Shirt with Concealed Placket £190 & Wool Skirt with Multi Twist Panel Detailing £420
White Dolly Shirt with Concealed Placket £190 & Wool Skirt with Multi Twist Panel Detailing £420

 

Kelly Shaw has a close working relationship with artist Jem Doulton who creates bold oil paintings borne out of Shaw’s thoughts and ideas and these, in turn, are scanned and turned into digital prints on fabric.  For this particular collection Shaw was inspired by the process of self-transformation, complex human emotions and the paradox of good and bad, of light and dark.

A clever and original way of working this collaboration ensures that the designers personality and flair is translated into each individual piece.  Shaw is confident, her mantra is this; discover your soul, be bold, be yourself, create, rebel, revolutionise and above all, enjoy.  Each piece in her current collection depicts a quiet protest, from the slogan tees and dresses to the bold prints on delicate silk.  Shaw uses British materials and produces her collections in the UK, this is truly a girl who is proud to be British and supporting the British fashion industry.

Metallic Cosmos Shift Dress £425
Metallic Cosmos Shift Dress £425
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Slogan Tee £65
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Slogan Tee £65
Liminal Dress with Digital Front Panel £440
Liminal Dress with Digital Front Panel £440
“Metalic Cosmos” Organic Jersey Sweatshirt £280
“Metalic Cosmos” Organic Jersey Sweatshirt £280
Stripe Scarf 100% Wool £210
Stripe Scarf 100% Wool £210
Liminal Scarf 100% Wool £210
Liminal Scarf 100% Wool £210

 

Despite her roots being firmly in the UK, Kelly Shaw took her FW15 collection to present in Paris, why you might ask?  Well the answer to that is an interesting one and requires some background….

Producing a collection costs money.  Lots of it.  The biggest issue for a young designer fresh to the fold is having the cashflow to meet the level of supply and demand for their current collection, but to also fund the next collection and be able to present it to the masses.  This is something Shaw knows only too well and after taking to the streets during London Fashion Week SS15 in September 2014 with the Occupy movement to protest against the fashion industry’s lack of support for British designers showing at London Fashion Week, Shaw set up a crowd funding project in order to present her FW15 main line collection offering up personal notes, collection pieces, drawings and whatever she could to those who contributed in order to draw attention and backing for the project, and it worked.  Shaw raised the full capital amount required to show her collection during arguably the most prolific event of Fashion Month; Paris Fashion Week.

Fast forward to March 2015 and Kelly Shaw has packed up her collection and her team and travelled to Paris to show her collection at Tapis Rouge, an amazing venue in the centre of Paris steeped in history and a fantastic place to present a fashion collection.  Shaw’s star is rising and Paris may just send her stellar, Kanye West was spotted browsing and as we know, anything Kanye gives the seal of approval has a tendency to skyrocket.

If you’re a fan of British design and British fashion this is one designer you should back; Kelly Shaw has real talent, with a knack for knockout simplicity and a “fuck you” attitude to conforming, Shaw is not afraid to push the boundaries or to challenge proportions.  Edgar Allen Poe once said “There is no exquisite beauty without some strangeness in the proportion” and Shaw’s designs are the very definition of this, with each collection she comes more into her own and with The Liminal Journey I think she’s found her niche.

Prices for the Kelly Shaw London FW15 collection start at a very reasonable £65 for a slogan tee up to £550 for an evening dress and that divine British mohair coat that so many of you have asked about is £1200.

Fashion Voyeur and Kelly Shaw London have teamed up to offer readers a fantastic 20% discount on pieces from the FW15 collection if ordered before March 30th 2015.  This is an exclusive offer not available anywhere else and the collection is not currently available to purchase so you’ll be amongst the first to get your hands on it when it drops in August 2015 for the FW15 season. 

To order at the discounted price simply:

  1. Browse the full collection in the gallery at the bottom of the post
  2. Choose your favourite piece(s)
  3. Email kelly@kellyshaw.co.uk to place your order quoting Fashion Voyeur for your exclusive 20% discount
  4. Sit back and gloat knowing you’re amongst the first to pre-order the Kelly Shaw London FW15 collection and that you got it at a knockout price

Top of my shopping list from this collection:

Grey Wool Dress £385
Grey Wool Dress £385
“Living The Dream” Unisex Screen Printed Sweatshirt £120
“Living The Dream” Unisex Screen Printed Sweatshirt £120
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Printed Silk Top £240
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Printed Silk Top £240
British Mohair Tartan Coat with Patch Pocket Detail £1200
British Mohair Tartan Coat with Patch Pocket Detail £1200

 

I absolutely have to have the grey Cloud type dress, (I feel that it will improve my life exponentially & it absolutely will as I’ve already ordered it) and the oversized slogan sweat speaks for itself.  The trend for co-ord dressing shows no signs of abating and this two piece with the mix of print and proportion is absolute perfection.  Lastly the British mohair coat, just look at it, it’s a thing of beauty and in the midst of a British Winter we all need something beautiful!

To find out more visit www.kellyshaw.co.uk, the FW15 collection will be available from August 2015 via the Young British Designers website at: http://www.youngbritishdesigners.com/designers/arising/kelly-shaw/ or you can currently shop the SS15 collection via the same website.

Here’s the full Liminal Journey collection, pick out your favourite pieces, take advantage of the fantastic discount offer, and circle August in your diaries.

Pixie x

Want to engage with Kelly Shaw London on social media?

Twitter: https://twitter.com/kellyshawlondon

FaceBook: https://www.facebook.com/kellyshawlondon

“Living The Dream” Unisex Screen Printed Sweatshirt £120
“Living The Dream” Unisex Screen Printed Sweatshirt £120
Slogan Tee £65 & Berry Red Wool Shorts £240
Slogan Tee £65 & Berry Red Wool Shorts £240
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Slogan Tee £65
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Slogan Tee £65
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Printed Silk Top £240
Liminal Digital Print Skirt £320 & Printed Silk Top £240
Berry Red Wool Shorts £240
Berry Red Wool Shorts £240
Linda Smock with Open Back £349
Linda Smock with Open Back £349
Linda Smock with Open Back £349
Linda Smock with Open Back £349
“Metalic Cosmos” Organic Jersey Sweatshirt £280
“Metalic Cosmos” Organic Jersey Sweatshirt £280
White Dolly Shirt with Concealed Placket £190 & Wool Skirt with Multi Twist Panel Detailing £420
White Dolly Shirt with Concealed Placket £190 & Wool Skirt with Multi Twist Panel Detailing £420
Emma Trapeze Dress with Raw Edge Hem Detail £520
Emma Trapeze Dress with Raw Edge Hem Detail £520
Marianne Layered Dress with Bias Cut Paneling and Raw Edge Hem Detail £550
Marianne Layered Dress with Bias Cut Paneling and Raw Edge Hem Detail £550
Wool Dress with Multi Twist Panel Detailing £899
Wool Dress with Multi Twist Panel Detailing £899
Kirsty Trapeze Dress with Square Hem Panel Detail £325
Kirsty Trapeze Dress with Square Hem Panel Detail £325
Liminal Dress with Digital Front Panel £440
Liminal Dress with Digital Front Panel £440
British Mohair Tartan Coat with Patch Pocket Detail £1200
British Mohair Tartan Coat with Patch Pocket Detail £1200
Julia Wool Shift Dress £399 & Liminal Scarf £210
Julia Wool Shift Dress £399 & Liminal Scarf £210
Julia Wool Shift Dress £399
Julia Wool Shift Dress £399
Grey Wool Dress £385
Grey Wool Dress £385
Roberta Swing Cotton Dress £299
Roberta Swing Cotton Dress £299
Metallic Cosmos Shift Dress £425
Metallic Cosmos Shift Dress £425
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People will stare, make it worth their while

Pixie Tenenbaum

FASHION VOYEUR

Freelance Fashion and Beauty Writer
Currently taking review slots
Hire Me: pixie.tenenbaum@gmail.com

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