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Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet, The Glorious North East, The Lifestyle Edit

Slaley Hall Summer Soiree

Northumberland has two modes, Summer and Winter and it looks equally beautiful in either.  Bo and I were invited to Slaley Hall in the heart of Northumberland for the annual Summer Soiree, held during the height of Summer.  Not just any Summer, the Summer of 2018, yeah, the one where we had actual heat and sunshine at the same time.

With the sun high in the sky we set off for Northumberland with the top down, our sunglasses on, and not a jacket in sight.  We arrived at Slaley Hall in the evening with the sun beating down on us like noon on a Summer day, the setting literally couldn’t have been more perfect.  Slaley Hall is as welcoming as it is imposing, this gorgeous castle / manor house never fails to impress and seems to project a different persona from every aspect.  Tonight though, we were there for a showcase in conjunction with Duke Ata Bespoke, a menswear label by one of my BFFs held in the gardens, natch.

The rear of Slaley Hall in Northumberland, a view from the garden with blue skies overhead
Blogger Pixie Tenenbaum wearing hexagonal mirrored sunglasses and a striped Zara dress at the Slaley Hall Summer soiree in Northumberland in July 2018
Durham gin & honey cocktails and sunset themed mocktails at the Slaley Hall Summer soiree in Northumberland - Fashion Voyeur Blog

Guests were treated to sunset themed mocktails and cocktails prepared using Durham Gin (the house gin at Slaley Hall) on arrival, alongside canapés that looked like delicious mini ice cream cones but turned out to be some kind of weird tunafish wafer thing.  As we walked out to the gardens, the view opened out over beautiful, uber green grass and perfectly trimmed trees.  A live singer played on the lawn for us whilst we chatted and enjoyed the rare occurrence of some evening sunshine, think Nikki Beach, with grass.

The stone gazebo at the entrance to the Japanese ornamental garden hidden away at the rear of slaley Hall in Northumberland - Fashion Voyeur blog
Menswear Tailor Duke Ata of Duke Ata Bespoke wearing a green suit with pocket square holding a glass of champagne as he gives a talk on his brand at the Slaley Hall Summer Soiree in Northumberland - Fashion Voyeur Blog
The still pond and purple leaves of the Japanese Ornamental Garden at Slaley Hall in Northumberland - Fashion Voyeur Blog

After a chance to catch up and chat, we were escorted to the Japanese Ornamental Garden further down in the grounds of Slaley Hall.  A feature that’s pretty well hidden, almost like a secret garden which casts the most perfect light over it’s red and purple leaves and super still pond.  At the entrance to the Garden there’s a stone bandstand type structure, we’re told it can be hired for private dining parties and decked out with lanterns, or used for smaller wedding ceremonies and I can’t help but think what a gorgeous moment that would make.  Today though we’re assembled to hear from Duke Ata about his latest venture, the Duke Ata Clubhouse.  If you haven’t already read my post about the Clubhouse launch event you can find it here.  Duke and his team spoke about their quest to find the perfect base for the Duke Ata Bespoke brand and how as well as the bespoke tailoring range, the brand will now produce a ready to wear collection for men comprising suiting, shirts, socks and shoes, all available to view on the rack at the Duke Ata Bespoke clubhouse in Jesmond.

A shot of Pixie Tenenbaum in the centre of the Japanese Ornamental Garden at Slaley Hall's Summer soiree taken by Bo Curtis-Darville on the iPhone X
A picture of a table full of Duke Ata bespoke gift bags each containing an emerald green Duke Ata bespoke pocket square for guests at the Slaley Hall Summer Soiree in Northumberland
Duke Ata wearing Duke Ata Bespoke, shot taken by Pixie Tenenbaum using the iPhone X

After his informal presentation, I grabbed Duke for a chat about some of the intricacies of how the Clubhouse will operate and in his usual relaxed tone, he told me that it’s there to be used, basically if a client wants an appointment the team will make it happen.  A driver will be sent to pick up the client from any North East location to bring them to the studio where they’ll chat about personality, style, likes and dislikes so that Duke can get a feel for what the client needs.  After that, the process begins and the suit is crafted to the exact specifications for that particular client.  It’s simple, but also elaborate and it’s a very client-centric approach.  Obviously I know all of this, I hang out there, I’ve even played the vintage piano that sits in the Clubhouse.

Sunset over Slaley Hall at the Summer soiree in Northumberland

At the end of the evening we make our way back across the manicured lawns to the main Slaley Hall building and I can’t help but notice just how beautiful it looks in the Northumberland sunset, right here in the UK.

Pixie

 

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet, The Glorious North East

What I Wore: To the Duke Ata Clubhouse Launch

Voyeurs, this event has been a long time coming.

A good friend of mine, and one of my most favourite people in the whole world, has finally opened his bespoke menswear studio: The Duke Ata Clubhouse.  I can’t tell you how many times Duke and I have sat down to discuss plans for creating the most perfect launch event, all culminating in a home for his made to measure tailoring business, Duke Ata Bespoke.  You’ve heard me talking about Duke, we affectionately refer to each other as “my favourite” and I kind of feel like if you were to assign someone with the title of my Work Husband, Duke would be the proud bearer of this title.  Suffice to say, we’re good mates.

When Duke called me to first berate me for not keeping in touch over the past two months, and then tell me that he’d found the best location for his new studio I was psyched.  Well, less so about being bollocked for being a shit friend but the bit about the studio rocked my world because he’s been searching for what feels like forever.  As Duke and his awesome team knuckled down and got to work refining the space and creating somewhere that would feel like a real escape, I got to searching for the perfect outfit.

An image of a suit jacket tailored by Duke Ata Bespoke & on display at the launch of the Duke Ata Bespoke Clubhouse
Aclose up image of a Duke Ata bag embossed in gold lettering on a shelf in the Duke Ata Clubhouse
A personalised cake with the words "Duke Ata" prepared by Sweet Atelier for the Duke Ata Clubhouse launch event

Duke specialises in mens tailoring, in a similar vein to Joshua Kane (without the dramatics) Duke’s work is classic, distinguished and instantly recognisable.  From the cut, to the finishing details, he’s a perfectionist and if you’ve never met this dude, he’s like a slicker, more tidy version of Andre 3000, he plays football on a weekend – I’m positive he does it in a suit.

An image of Blogger Pixie Tenenbaum wearing vintage Dieter Heupel from Trendlistr at the launch of the Duke Ata Bespoke Clubhouse in Jesmond

So, back to my outfit, when my invite landed I knew I couldn’t rock up in my usual scruffy chic and by total chance, found this vintage Dieter Heupel tailored jacket at vintage hotspot Trendlistr.  The fit is perfect and the cut is clean, it’s not my usual neckline as I usually avoid anything with a deep V, or anything that exposes my chest but the print is just too good to not wear it.  I opted to wear it as a solo piece with a black cage bra underneath to max out on that perfect fit.  As the jacket is midnight blue with varying shades of blue throughout, I paired it with a midnight blue velvet sock boot and some polished latex trousers from a fetish store in Soho.

Headshot of Blogger Pixie Tenenbaum wearing vintage Dieter Heupel from Trendlistr, with pink hair and a purple lip
Close up headshot of Blogger Pixie Tenenbaum with pink hair and MAC Heroine's purple lipstick

With my pink hair and signature MAC Heroine lip, I’m chalking this up as a pretty awesome lewk.  High five, air punch emoji, winky face.

Pixie x

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet, The Glorious North East

Menswear Fit for a Duke

When it comes to menswear things can get a little tricky, sure it looks simple enough for a fashionista looking in but when it comes to dressing men, silhouette is key as everything is loosely based on one main aesthetic – a trouser paired with a top.

With the emergence of more and more menswear design talent through LC:M and NYFW Mens, the options for male dressing are widening however these groundbreaking shows are more about pushing boundaries than setting seasonal trends.  As much as Men’s Fashion Month is an major event in the fashion calendar, it mostly gives me inspo for my own wardrobe.

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We all know that Fashionista’s move in tribes.  The key difference is that men often aren’t aware of the theory of fashion tribes, or of which tribe they fall into; whether they’re a Classic Aesthetic (jeans and tee), Sports Luxe (relaxed fit jeans / sweatpants, sports tee & sneakers), Wide Boy (skinny sweats & vest) or Urban Gentleman (tailoring with all the trimmings), it’s not usually a conscious decision.  Whether aware of it are not, men are unwittingly influenced by fashion.

You’ve seen The Devil Wears Prada, you know the theory behind the cerulean blue sweater – in a nutshell, every purchase you make on the highstreet, every throwaway notion or bargain bin selection, is directly influenced by the elite runway shows at the top of the chain.  Fashion is everywhere and influences most of your day to day decisions around clothing, makeup, accessories and shoes, right through to the way you style your home.

If you’re a guy who naturally favours suiting and consider a pocket square to be the ultimate accessory, then congratulations!  You fall into the Urban Gentleman tribe, (and there are definitely a few of you out there who follow me), it’s likely that you already know that tailoring is your best friend.  The high street can work with tailoring to a certain extent but the clue is in the name people, tailoring only achieves its MO if it’s made to fit.  Yes, I get that budget is a huge factor and can recommend some off the rack retailers for tailoring but trust me, going made to measure will change your life.

Step forward Duke Ata Bespoke.  Duke’s self titled label focuses on luxury, made to fit, with all the trappings of a modern, urban gentleman.  Everything Duke produces has flair, from the signature wide lapels and polka dots to the wide shouldered cut of his jackets, a Duke Ata Bespoke piece is recognisable by its artistry.

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With a background in Blogging, Duke’s knowledge of menswear in particular led him on an eerily similar journey to mine.  Styling wedding guests and curating wardrobe overhauls for years gave him a clear idea of pieces that would work for clients.  It wasn’t long before Duke turned his hand to design himself, and ultimately, tailoring.   Inspired by classic elegance, the gentleman’s silhouette and the craftsmanship of Savile Row, Duke has developed a peculiar and recognisable style which has been forged into the Duke Ata brand.

His first collection – Vol.1 – sees classic tailoring married with an urban twist.  Duke has a penchant for unusual fabrics and is super particular about the quality, threadcount and finish – I can say that, we’re friends – basically, if it’s not perfect, it’s not Duke Ata.

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The fitting service offered by Duke Ata Bespoke is a step above tailoring.  A tailor will take an existing suit model and make it fit the client (think Tim Gunn in How I Met Your Mother), with a bespoke service fabric selection, shape, cut and fit are all handcrafted to the needs and expectations of the client.  It’s a different ball game.  The cost is high, but then that’s not news.  For anyone considering something bespoke there’s a price to pay, but business is booming.

Duke’s clients tell me that there’s nothing like the feeling of putting on a Duke Ata Bespoke suit, it’s like The Emporer’s New Clothes, they fit so well that you feel like you’re wearing nothing, but you just know you look awesome.

You’ll recognise his aesthetic too, Duke recently dressed footballer Jamie O’Hara for his Celebrity Big Brother 2017 entrance, and Body Fixers Dr Esho only wears Duke Ata Bespoke.  Natty credentials indeed.  Duke doesn’t shout from the rooftops about his brand, he’s quietly confident.  Charismatic and charming, it’s no wonder his clients are fiercely loyal.

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With a series of low key, invite only events around his home town of Newcastle, he let’s the pieces he creates do the talking and is quietly building momentum in both the North and in London where he takes regular fitting appointments.  When we discuss the theory of fashion tribes he agrees with me saying “I know my tribe, I stay in my lane.  I don’t try to force tailoring on to people it won’t work for, I’m particular about my clients.”  With bespoke tailoring on the rise and Tom Ford recently stating “My suit is my uniform, I feel weak in trainers”, it’s an aesthetic that more and more men (and women) are aspiring to.  Well Voyeurs, it just got a little more accessible to the Urban Gentlemen of the North East – you know who you are.

Pixie xo

For appointments email appointments@dukeata.com

FASHION VOYEUR – AN ONLINE JOURNAL

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FASHION VOYEUR
People will stare, make it worth their while

EDITED BY
Pixie Tenenbaum
pixie.tenenbaum@gmail.com

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RION Magazine Fashion Editor

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Copywriter/Editor/Proofreader/Journo in fashion, fashion history & language Currently: Fashion Ed @rionmagazine & @so.edited.co Fashion Innovation @shopbyshape

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mrswamsbsgans leyla 🍒 @mrswamsbsgans ·
24 Feb

and if i say this is one of the best episodes of television of all time?????

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16 Feb

Elizabeth Taylor is asked if her beauty was a curse (1999). Love her answer.

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16 Feb

Top of the Pops (16th February 1978). Kate Bush makes her TOTP debut.

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