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Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: The Archives

Fashion Futures Hosts Henry Holland & Laura Weir in Conversation

This week saw the launch of Fashion Futures in Newcastle, an event set up in place of Newcastle Fashion Week this year to celebrate the emerging design talent from Northumbria University, who have been delivering outstanding Fashion Design courses for sixty years.

The two day programme had a jam-packed schedule full of great events for both industry insiders and the public with the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art playing host to the whole event providing a hub and backdrop to this awesome celebration of homegrown talent.  Think of it as the North East’s Somerset House / Brewer Street carpark.

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über cool designer Henry Holland visited the region to participate in Fashion Talks with Laura Weir, Fashion Features Editor for British Vogue.  The auditorium was packed out for this event with Editors, Bloggers, Fashion students and people with a genuine passion for fashion and it didn’t disappoint.  The pair took to the all white stage, Laura Weir looking slick in a House of Holland midi dress and biker jacket and Henry Holland looking every inch the off-duty designer in black skinnies, Dr Marten boots and a denim jacket from his own collection with neon highlights.

I threw on a pair of Zara pants, an off Duty tee and some Prada shoes to take my seat on the front row and bring you the skinny.

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This particular segment of Fashion Talks was billed as Henry Holland and Laura Weir in Conversation and that’s exactly what it was.  The Pair have been firm friends for a long time and it showed, the conversation was fun and upbeat with Weir asking probing and considered questions giving thought to what the audience would want to learn about Holland.  We learned how he began his career – he was actually rejected from a Fashion Design course and studied Journalism at University but hated it!  We got to hear that his mum told him when he was younger that “We get eight careers” in our lifetime and he proceeds to talk about his early careers at now defunct Smash Hits and Bliss magazines.  It raises a giggle from the audience when Holland talks about his iconic breakout tee collection and how they were borne out of a drunken conversation one night with friends.  Hearing this makes the designer seem more real, more accessible and more human.

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The pair laugh as they reminisce about those now infamous slogan tees, (FYI I’m the proud owner of Do Me Daily Christopher Bailey and Flick Your Bean for Agyness Deyn) and how a whole career was started on four rhyming couplets.

Holland talks passionately about that time in his life, saying that those tees were just the start of things, they “were like a football shirt or band T-shirt for the fashion industry” and gave people who “maybe couldn’t afford a Christopher Kane dress a way of supporting the industry” by wearing a playful Cum Again Christopher Kane tee, almost like making a statement that you belonged.  Holland went on to talk about how these tees allowed him to create a “strong visual DNA” for the brand.

He tells the audience about his first time showing at London Fashion Week as part of Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East in 2006 and how he only realised it was an Autumn / Winter show moments before go time and his House of Holland collection was all short-sleeved T-shirts.  He goes on to say that following this, he took constructive criticism wherever he could and went on to build a small team of staff and completed a full collection including eyewear, accessories and footwear.

It’s easy to feel like you’ve known the pair for years, watching them talk and joke with each other on stage is comforting, there’s no snobbery and when asked by an audience member if he feels that a University education is essential in order to break into the fashion industry Holland says absolutely not.  He admits that it takes willpower and that he still encounters snobbery because he had no formal design training, but says that he wouldn’t change anything throughout his career so far and that he’s “happy to share his mistakes” if it helps others in their quest to enter the famously guarded fashion industry.

Holland has wise words for budding designers too, he advises ” Stay true to your brand, its DNA and what you are trying to say through your clothes.”  the designer muses that he loves that people can personify with his brand and its message.  He goes on to say that he admires what Paul Smith has created, “a quintessentially British brand that has absolutely retained its Paul Smith vibe”.

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When asked whether he finds his role glamorous, Holland is quick to say “no”, he elaborates by saying that the celebrities he’s so often photographed with are his original group of friends since childhood and that celebrity is just a “side effect of their jobs”.

So what’s next for Henry Holland?  Well the designer has recently moved into menswear and would love to open his own physical store in London in order to create a “curated environment” for the customer.  He’s asked a great question by the editor of Darkus magazine: If he could give this part of his life a chapter name, what would it be?  After a short pause, Holland smiles and says ” I think it would have to be, What the Fuck Just Happened?!”  He goes on to tell us that there is actually a book on the horizon charting his life so far, if this talk is an introduction then this book is sure to make for an interesting read and is certainly something I’d read.

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His last question is from a young designer in the audience who asks whether it’s important to base yourself in London as a designer.  Both Holland and Weir are resolute in saying “no”.  Although both admit that it makes things easier, Weir claims that being outside of London could actually work to a designers advantage “you already know your audience and market and don’t have the competition” that there is in London.  Both firmly agree that the most important thing for young designers to have is passion and drive and a will to succeed.

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The pair thank the audience for their involvement and with that they’re off all smiles and waves.  Hats off to the organisers NE1, this was funny, interesting and engaging and the time flew by.  The format absolutely worked and the duo left the audience wanting more, in fact some of the younger Fashion students were discussing those sage words of advice afterwards.

If Henry Holland hasn’t been on your radar, firstly, where have you been?! And secondly, check him out.  At the end of the day as we discovered, he’s just a normal, down to earth guy with an insane amount of talent and some cool friends who happen to be celebrities.  He’s got a really awesome story to tell and pretty soon it could be on a bookshelf near you.

Pixie x

Categories: The Archives

NE1 Fashion Futures

The North East’s very own annual fashion event Newcastle Fashion Week is taking a break this year and instead will be replaced with a two day, jam-packed event called Fashion Futures. In line with the 60th anniversary of the Fashion department at Northumbria University, one of the most influential and highly regarded institutions for fashion study in Europe.  The groundbreaking Fashion Futures event will acknowledge the University’s contribution to the fashion industry and will showcase the talent of current students, graduates and alumni.

Held over two days at the BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art in Gateshead, the event will provide a fresh new take on the Fashion Week that the city has become accustomed to and will be condensed into two days rather than the usual full week.  The event will include a graduate runway show from Northumbria University’s Class of 2015 on Day One which will no doubt see an influx of international buyers and editors to Newcastle and Gateshead.

Day Two brings Fashion Talks, a series of three talks which aims to help and support young people in breaking into the fashion industry, the line up for these talks includes contemporary fashion designer Henry Holland and Editor in Chief of UK Vogue, Alexandra Shulman.  A panel discussion will be another attraction of Fashion Talks with fashion industry experts including three local designers who all graduated from our very own Northumbria University; Michelle Taylor founder of luxury lingerie brand, Tallulah Love; Charis Younger, Menswear Designer at All Saints; Kate Ablett, Berghaus designer, and Darren Spurling, Managing Director of international footwear designer Terry De Havilland.

The ever popular Fashion Front Row event will return as part of this new fixture on the evening of May 14th providing a showcase for emerging North East talent, I’ll be there covering both days to bring you live updates from the FROW and to blog about the event as a whole and I’m looking forward to seeing what the Class of 2015 has to show.

So however you feel about this event replacing Newcastle Fashion Week, you’ve got to sign up to stay in the know, to sign up for alerts and ticket releases for Fashion Futures visit: NE1 Fashion Futures

Pixie x

Categories: The Archives

Holly Fulton SS15 London Fashion Week

This is my first post on the new domain and it’s about one of my favourite subjects: London Fashion Week!  I was lucky enough to be invited to Fashion Week this year by fashion and beauty PR Agency Media Hubb and attended the SS15 show of one of my favourite British designers, Holly Fulton.

I was invited backstage before the show to really get an idea of the thought behind the show and was very interested to hear that Holly thinks of her show as a view into her world.  This is far more than a twenty minute runway show, this is an experience, and it begins when the models are cast.  Holly wanted the models skin to almost drip with luminescence and health and in order to achieve this models were gifted with beauty devices from leading home beauty device brand; Silk’n.  These included the Glide hair removal, Silhouette contouring and Sonic Clean Plus devices, all of which contributed to that flawless glow the models had on the runway.

“Fashion and beauty have the same aspiration, to make women look and feel beautiful” says Holly, “My SS15 collection is set off by illuminating skin which is smooth and soft to the touch, thanks to Silk’n revolutionary products”

models hair was kept simple in low slung ponytails with added weaves for extra length, I spoke to Hair Stylists Loui Ferri and Mags about the look and they said that it was all about a sleek look so that the focus would be on the models “glow”

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Holly hails from Edinburgh and is known for her striking graphic prints.  Her SS15 runway show theme was alluded to with the printed show invite and the show itself did not disappoint.  Nestled in the Courtyard showspace at London Fashion Week hub, Somerset House, a white reflective runway was concealed by yellow plastic as we took our seats.

The FROW was a hotbed for fashion editors, bloggers, celebrities and fashion lovers all eager for a first look at the collection dubbed “an ode to sun-worship, folk art and free expression”

The creations were decorated in folkloric magic but grounded in the precision of Modernism.  True to form, Holly sent models cascading down the runway in her signature monochrome panelled with crystal and laser cut components and bonded patent strapping.

Models wore sunglasses from Holly’s own collection; Holly Fulton for Cutler and Gross and powered down the runway to the beats of Jonjo Jury.

Holly Fulton for Cutler & Gross
Holly Fulton for Cutler & Gross

I swear my heart skipped a beat when the graphic printed silk coat appeared on the runway and my eyes seemed to naturally filter out everything else for a moment, a thing of rare beauty and craftsmanship, and something that screams Holly Fulton to anyone within shouting distance.

After a gorgeous finale with colours so sharp they looked like they had been processed with a Chrome filter, Holly made a brief appearance on the runway stopping only to wave to the crowd before disappearing again.  One thing is for sure though, the Great British High-street will be awash with tributes to this collection come February 2015 and we’ll all be back in graphic print with perspex detailing, strapping and accessories.

Pixie x

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FROW
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Holly Fulton SS15
Holly Fulton SS15
Holly Fulton SS15
Holly Fulton SS15
Holly Fulton SS15 Details
Holly Fulton SS15 Details
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Holly Fulton for Cutler & Gross
Holly Fulton for Cutler & Gross
Holly Fulton SS15
Holly Fulton SS15
THAT printed jacket
THAT printed jacket
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RION Magazine Fashion Editor

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Copywriter/Editor/Proofreader/Journo in fashion, fashion history & language Currently: Fashion Ed @rionmagazine & @so.edited.co Fashion Innovation @shopbyshape

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