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Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

London Fashion Week FW17: David Ferreira Presents The Freakball

As you know Voyeurs, Fashion Month’s FW17 season has been fresh and exciting and full of new talent as well as big changes for established labels.  Mulberry took a bold step for FW17 with a collection like nothing we’ve seen in seasons gone by and David Ferreira took us to the circus with his awesome Freakball showcase at London fashion Week.

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I had a front row seat for this exclusive look at the Lisbon based designer’s first collection following his prestigious Les Etoiles Mercedes Benz win in Paris in 2016.

Inspired by the strikingly unusual and unique, Ferreira’s FW17 collection entitled The Freakball, was a rollercoaster from start to finish.  Fuschia pink, baby pink, chartreuse yellow and cobalt blue collide in a vivid, texture rich collection that’s a real treat for the senses.  Models were painted up to look like a clown / doll hybrid to great effect and they posed as they walked giving off a circus freak show vibe.  (It’s no surprise that Bjork is a fan).

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Research for the collection began at the circus and its origins, but it was in sideshows and freak shows that he found his true inspiration for his FW17 showcase.

Even though the foundation of the David Ferreira Fall / Winter collection lays in the film Freaks (1932), the book Freak Show by Roben Bogdan, The Victorian Freak Show and the work of photographer, Joel-Peter Witkin, the collection isn’t a literal inspiration of human deformities and biological rarities, instead it is a celebration of the beauty of singularity, of individuality and of rarity.

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These days we know that uniqueness is the true definition of luxury.  Exclusivity and rarity are highly covetable and we all know there’s nothing more exclusive than the singular.  Ferreira’s pieces play with the shape of a woman’s silhouette by creating a visual spectacle that blurs the lines between garment and person, using uniqueness and rarity as the driving force behind the collection, as the thing most coveted.  My standout piece from The Freakball was a pale pink fitted, duchess satin dress with a point of ruffles at the front.

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The Freakball collection is a collective celebration of individuality, of not fitting into society’s stereotype of ‘normal’.  It’s a collection that takes conventional proportion and flips it on it’s head, amping up the volume with ruffles, godês, gatherings, non conventional pattern cutting and straightened Mongolian lamb hair.

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The most exciting part of this collection for me, was the extreme texture clash;  silk, double duchess satins, silk satins, silk crepe satins, Mongolian lamb, tulle and woven metal fabric combine for absolute sensory mayhem on the Ferreira runway and the final piece changed the silhouette entirely by adding volume to the waist and nipping in the ankles, an pleasantly unexpected aesthetic and one just wacky enough to make you sit up and take notice of Ferreira.  He was awarded the Merit Award by Fashion Scout last year earning three seasons of sponsorship so there’s no doubt the best is yet to come from this exciting, bold designer.

Pixie xo

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

London Fashion Week FW17: John Herrera

In a fashion Months full of firsts, designer John Herrera showed for the first time at Fashion Scout and debuted with his FW17 collection, Agila.  A showcase tinged with tradition and exploration of Herrera’s Filipino roots.

 

Herrera launched his brand in London two years ago when he was chosen to participate in the British Council and British Fashion Council’s International Fashion Showcase at Somerset House.  That same year Herrera went on to win at the London Emerging Designer Awards, also at Somerset House, and showed his winning collection at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Tokyo.  After showing a sensational bioluminescence themed collection and on the eve of LFW’s FW17 season, Herrera was announced as the winner of Britain’s Top Designer award for 2017, a title previously held by Helen Woollams of Hellavagirl Couture.

John Herrera's Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera's Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera's Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.

For his FW17 collection Herrera harked back to his roots, experimenting with filipino tribal art and tattoos straight out of Luzon.  The Philippine eagle which features prominently throughout the stunning six piece collection, was a huge inspiration to the designer, each piece of his hand-drawn, original artwork was transferred to the fabric through dye-sublimation printing in partnership with Epson Philippines, with amazing attention to detail.  The result, a sublime kaleidoscopic effect in earthy, neutral tones.  I was on the front row and can vouch for just how hotly anticipated and talked about this show was;  without a doubt, Herrera’s showcase was one of the most over subscribed shows I’ve been to in years and for good reason.

John Herrera's Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera's Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera's Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.
John Herrera’s Agila Collection presented at Fashion Scout.

The great thing about Herrera as an emerging design talent, is his passion for ethical material sourcing and supporting his hometown where he continues to produce his collections.  His staff is made up of women from challenged upbringing and he continues to support his community through his work; Herrera is a designer who has seen struggle and made it work as a positive in his branding.

Next on the agenda for the Filipino designer is a stint at Paris Fashion Week.  Agila will be shown as a static presentation at The Westin Paris – Vendome as part of the prestigious So… Couture showroom.

Definitely one to watch Voyeurs, the Agila collection is already up on Vogue Online and will feature in this season’s accompanying Vogue Collections – I’ll be watching for Herrera’s next move as September is always the best show season…

Pixie xo

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

‘100% Egyptian Cotton’ Fashion Installation Launch at LFW

‘100% Egyptian Cotton’ Featured in the International Fashion Showcase 2017 Presented by Mercedes-Benz in conjunction with London Fashion Week

A fashion installation featuring the best emerging design talent from Egypt formed part of the International Fashion showcase for 2017 which runs in line with London Fashion Week.  Capitalising on the sheer number of fashionistas who descend on the capital each show season, ‘100% Egyption Cotton’ opened at Somerset House to rapturous applause.  The exhibition was curated by Susan Sabet, the Founder and Editor-in-Chief of Pashion Magazine, and one of the top 500 most influential people in the fashion industry according to the Business of Fashion.

“We are thrilled with the overwhelming response to the installation. Having fashion’s elite focus on our installation is a tribute to Egypt’s growing presence on the international fashion stage.”  Susan Sabet, Editor-in-Chief Pashion Magazine

IFS 2017 presented by Mercedes-Benz_Egypt_Reem Jano (2) Photographer Agnese Sanvito
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IFS 2017 presented by Mercedes-Benz_Egypt_Reem Jano (1) Photographer Agnese Sanvito
IFS 2017 presented by Mercedes-Benz_Egypt_Okhtein 3_Photographer Olu Ogunshakin
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Organised by the British Council, British Fashion Council and Mercedes-Benz, in association with London Fashion Week, the theme for this year’s showcase was Local/Global.  Taking place February 17th – 21st, viewing time was limited and therefore critical, I managed to shoehorn in a visit between shows and it provided a pleasant distraction, and was nice to view a presentation as a static show where the craftsmanship could be appreciated up close, breaking up the whirlwind of runway shows that make up London Fashion Week.

IFS 2017 presented by Mercedes-Benz_Exhibition Design 13_Photographer Agnese Sanvito
IFS 2017 presented by Mercedes-Benz_Egypt_Team with Ambassador's Wife_Photographer Olu Ogunshakin
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With the six featured designers (and me, obvs) present at the launch, the exhibit was a favourite amongst the fashion elite including Suzy Menkes and Hilary Alexander who chatted for some time with the designers responsible for the showcase.  With Egypt as the only Arab country to be represented in the 2017 showcase, it was an important triumph for the exhibit as it was named the most visited show stand throughout the residency.

IFS 2017 presented by Mercedes-Benz_Egypt_Hannah Burns (L)_Evening Standard Head of Fashion Maurice Mullen (C)_Curator Susan Sabet (R)_Photographer Olu Ogunshakin
IFS 2017 presented by Mercedes-Benz_Egypt Overall Exhibition (5)_Photographer Agnese Sanvito
IFS 2017 presented by Mercedes-Benz_Egypt_Maram Paris_Photographer Olu Ogunshakin
IFS 2017 presented by Mercedes-Benz_Egypt_Sarah Mower (L)_Ambassador's Wife Mrs.Dalia ElBatal (C)_Curator Susan Sabet (R)_Photographer Olu Ogunshakin
IFS 2017_Egypt_100% Egyptian Cotton_Supported by CIB Egypt_Ambassador's Residence Cocktail party_Ambassador's Guests (3)_Photographer Olu Ogunshakin

Each featured accessories designer created one-off pieces based on their interpretation of the theme (100% Egyptian cotton), spanning from the lifecycle of the cotton plant, to the production of the final product.  RTW womenswear designers took classic men’s shirt in 100% Egyptian cotton as their canvas and embellished them with vibrant floral embroidery, referencing the clothing of young cotton farmers picking cotton flowers.

The exhibition is only in its second year so is still very new to London however if you’re in the capital for a visit during Fashion Week next February then I’d highly recommend it as somewhere to visit.  It’s centrally located just off The Strand and if you’re not actually attending LFW then it’s a great way to be involved in some of the fringe events that take place during show season, obvs it’s fashion related too so there’s a huge bonus there.

The exhibit looks set to return to London in February 2018 with no theme as yet but keep your ears peeled as this is one to add to your LFW list Voyeurs….

Pixie xo

Designers featured in the installation included:

MARAM PARIS – RTW Womenswear

NORINE FARAH – RTW Womenswear

MARSUMA BY NOUR OMAR – Painted Textiles

OKHTEIN – Handbags

SABRY MAROUF – Handbags / Jewellery

REEM JANO – Jewellery

 

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Categories: The Beauty Cupboard, The Fashion Closet

London Fashion Week FW17: CIMONE

LONDON FASHION WEEK FW17: CIMONE

London Fashion Week has been the talk of Fashion Month so far this season and it’s partly due to reinvention.  Each season one of the fashion capitals lags behind with an underwhelming collection of shows and another stands out for it’s bold, sometimes risque, play on fashion and trend prediction.

I’m excited about LFW this season and it’s because it’s off to an awesome start.  CIMONE showed an awesome, power packed collection for FW17 at Scout and was just the start of a season of bold, brave collections that played with femininity.  The exaggerated proportions which have long been a staple of CIMONE were present and a clash of the old and new in a breathtaking runway show.  Carli Pearson, founder and creative Director of CIMONE, trained at Central St. Martins and gained experience working with Stella McCartney, Alexander Wang and most recently, Alexander McQueen before launching CIMONE.  McQueen’s influence is laced throughout this collection; from the uber strong zombie beauty look, to the hair design straight out of Plato’s Atlantis, the collection is one tinged with the best memories of the late Lee McQueen and a fitting tribute.

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I was there for what was set to be one of the talking points throughout the whole of LFW and I got to see first hand what went down at CIMONE FW17.  Let me tell you Voyeurs, it was freezing cold but pretty damn awesome.  The influence of McQueen was very apparent in some of the shapes, the collection felt nostalgic and familiar, I’m pleased to see houndstooth check as a carry forward trend for next season as it’s one of my favourite current trends.  If anything, this show season has lent itself to transition, carrying over more existing trends than ever before, introducing new, more playful ways of wearing them.

With the feminine form at the centre of this collection, elongated shoulders and sharp panniers frame the female silhouette, Pearson has a way with fabric, using it in experimental ways to create the illusion of textures one might have thought impossible.  Light, floaty silks are weighted to create restriction and heavy wools appear light and voluminous.  CIMONE is a brand rooted in its passion for craftsmanship and ability to defy the laws of convention and the expected.

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CIMONE FW17 is a collection for strong women everywhere, for backstreet rebels fighting the cause and for women who dress for themselves.  Shapes are strong and over defined with ruffles making a re-appearance for next season, bolero jackets in stiff fabric and pelmets in a variety of shapes look set to be the standout shapes which will inevitably trickle down to the highstreet – expect to see cobalt blue and red everywhere come September.

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So far this collection has been met with critical acclaim with Vogue Italia shooting a dedicated lookbook and British Vogue citing it as a season highlight.  I don’t know about you Voyeurs but I’m a huge fan of exaggerated proportions, the ability to create something extra from nothing is a wondrous thing and there’s just something about an elongated shoulder that harks back to the power silhouette of the 40’s. Blend that with the modernity of the British highstreet and you’ve got a powerful mix right there.  I’m looking forward to creating this look on the highstreet when Fall ’17 rolls around and can’t wait to see how the trends infiltrate your wardrobes.  Whether you’re conscious of it or not, these almighty runway shows dictate what you buy and when you buy it meaning everyone, whether they know it or not, is influenced by fashion and I predict that the highstreet shapes we see in Fall will be hugely influenced by the likes of CIMONE, one of my favourite shows of the season so far.  The show closed with a strong finale to Tainted Love by Marilyn Manson, models marched purposefully making a final statement before Pearson appeared briefly to wave to the crowd.

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Keep it here for more from London Fashion Week, as you know we’ve had (more than) a few website issues recently so I’m working out the kinks and catching up!  I promise you Voyeurs, you won’t be disappointed!

Pixie xo

 

Categories: The Fashion Closet

London Fashion Week FW17: VIN + OMI Present Submerge

VIN + OMI are known for their elaborate show sets during London fashion Week and as a brand famed for its couture, it draws in a pretty impressive crowd.  For FW17 the brand has partnered with the iconic Michelle Violy Harper to produce its first ever ready to wear collection.  Exciting stuff right?

With Violy as their muse, VIN + OMI have created a fresh aesthetic with new silhouettes and shapes to flatter form.  Bold new patterns and colours reflect a fantasy waterworld, using fabrics made from recycled plastic collected from the ocean alongside the highest quality silks, sustainable latex and wool.  The duo are always exploring new methods of fabric manipulation and fabrication and with Submerge for FW17, they’ve produced their most relatable and wearable collection yet.

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“The collection is for that international, creative, art loving woman, with a sprinkling of menswear in there too.  The collection has a balance of light pieces and heavier winter outerwear, pastel shades and bold colours.  Global temperatures are changing and people are jumping on planes more often.  Seasonal collections need to reflect this.”  VIN + OMI

In a fully immersive London Fashion Week show staged at The Sanderson Hotel packed with the fashion elite, celebrities, and me, models walked the boards of the Perrier-Jouet enchanted garden before taking to the sidewalk to showcase the collection. A co-ed show saw both men’s and womenswear together on the runway, topped off with VIN + OMI’s signature quirky accessories including oversized silk mittens and zip tie jewellery in uber bright colours as well as hand drawn shoes.  Oversized proportions and elongated shoulders and sleeves have been a favourite with many designers in the FW17 Showcases and these extreme shapes managed to remain flattering to the female form at VIN + OMI.

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“My obsession with creating clothes that are avant garde, and steeped in the fantasy of the awe inspiring underwater world inspired me to work closely with VIN + OMI to create a collection that both challenges and delights.  I was drawn to their work because they push boundaries and are able to explore and translate not only concepts, but also feelings.”  Michelle Violy Harper

Radio 1 DJ Jo Whitley took to the runway for the finale alongside her two sons and daughter Coco, who led the finale, saying “well they got me out of Doc Martens!” As she closed the show.

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Every Fashionista worth her Himalayan Pink Salt knows that London Fashion Week is where we look to find fresh new shapes, silhouettes and colours, it’s where most emerging trends come from and the VIN + OMI show provided a hotbed of inspiration for the high street.  Come September, expect to see chiffon and mesh daubed with watercolours and frills (already huge news for SS17) on a high street near you.

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Pixie xo

Professional images taken by Christopher Daw, all other images taken by me.

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