Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: The Fashion Closet

Kristel Kuslapuu FW18 at London Fashion Week

With London Fashion Week well underway, there comes a point in the schedule where you realise you’ve taken on way too much.  After all, with two main locations for shows and presentations, and several other satellite venues used to host dreamy showcases, it soon becomes a question of choosing a venue to hover over as it’s just unrealistic to manage the hopping between venues.  Day 3 was, and always is that day.

pixie Tenenbaum wearing a prairie girl dress and faux fur coat in day 3 of London Fashion Week fall Winter 2018

I started and ended day 3 with a banging migraine and ended up missing several shows because of it, the only upside of this vile situation being that I was wearing an awesome outfit (with terrible shoes as I had broken my toe 4 days earlier).  My photographer friend and London Fashion Week sidekick, Ralph and I instead took a midday break to skulk around Holborn’s independent coffee shops and talk about upcoming collaborative shoots we’re working on.  On our walk back towards Fashion Scout, we decided to take a wander in and check out a static presentation by one of fashion Scout’s FW18 Ones To Watch winners, Kristel Kuslapuu.  Here’s a top tip for you Voyeurs, if you have static presentations on your LFW schedule, go 15 minutes before closing and you’re guaranteed an awesome view and the chance to get right up close with the designers work.  You might even be able to get the models to pose for you like we did.

Back to the work.  Kristel Kuslapuu is a new designer to the Fashion Scout schedule, after the Estonian knitwear designer showcased at Talinn Fashion Week she caught the eye of the judging panel who brought her talent to the FW18 line up.  Although new on the scene here in London, this isn’t Kuslapuu’s first rodeo.  She scooped the prizes of 2008 and 2009 SuperNoova in Estonia, Lithuania Fashion Injection and ERKI Fashion Show, alongside being showcased for Estonia at London Fashion Week in the International Fashion Showcase for 2014.  Phew, time to take a breath.

The succinct FW18 collection is inspired by dark secrets, phobias, social anxieties and traumas.  The individual pieces themselves, discuss serious subjects through highest levels of self-irony.  Most of the bold, colourful designs in the collection are hand knitted as a protest against fast, convenient fashion – a rebellion that we’re seeing more and more of throughout the Fashion Month model.  A twist is added by portraying serious topics with cute and fuzzy materials, such as yarns from alpaca, camel, goat and sheep.  Flirting with sculptural forms, bold colours, unique patterns, the collection shares provocative messages and symbols, transcending the traditional gender conformity.  Bright, vibrant and definitely eye catching.

I wonder what he said to her?

“For me winning was a reassurance that I am at the right place doing the right thing. The excitement of fulfilling one of your dreams is indescribable. I really do feel like I have found something that I am meant to do. Whilst years are passing I feel more and more obliged to give back to mother Earth and having this opportunity to share my art with the world is as given from above. I feel very grateful.”  Kristel Kuslapuu.

Kristel Kuslapuu FW18 Presentation at London Fashion Week A group shot with photographer Ralph Whitehead standing in front

I did also line up a pretty sweet group shot of the six piece presentation which Ralph stepped in and ruined…

Pixie xo

Categories: The Fashion Closet

Claire Tagg FW18 at London Fashion Week

The first day of the FW18 season of London Fashion Week has been a doozie and it’s mainly down to new and emerging design talent pulling out all the stops.  Whether it’s outlandish fashion destined for street stylers on the sidewalks of The Big Four, or sleek, classic designs using traditional methods of construction, London Fashion Week is starting BIG.

At Fashion Week we see designers favouring either the presentation or runway methods for showcasing their collections and there’s no set right or wrong.  A runway show is filled with flair and drama and lets you see a garment in motion, but a presentation lets you get up close and personal with a collection and the imagery you can get from that as a Blogger / Influencer is second to none.  Designer Claire Tagg showcased a static presentation for FW18 with some seriously bold florals…

British designer Claire Tagg is fresh out the gate with her new self titled label for FW18.  Showcasing a dramatic, oriental inspired fauna and flora collection, the pieces she’s created for the FW18 season are inspired by a personal story of her travels as an Air Hostess, combining glamour and destructed textures to creative a dramatic yet opulent range.  The collection is filled with silhouettes reminiscent of airline uniforms; structured jackets and blazer/kimono dresses are juxtaposed with full, oversized skirts and ballgowns constructed in luxurious Duchess Satin.

If there was a theme for the collection, it’s soft sophistication.  With it’s soft, clean colour palette the collection is easy on the eye, elongated and full sleeves dominate the collection providing what may become a signature aesthetic for Tagg.  Baby pinks and mustard yellows with contrasting fuchsias and black make up the base palette, whilst highlights of metallic gold sing from within the garments.  A collection that will surely inspire highstreet retailers specialising in wedding guest attire, I’m looking at you Coast.

Group shot of 5 outfits at the Claire Tagg FW18 presentation at London Fashion Week

The new designer plays with a variety of textures using delicate fabrics of chiffon and satin alongside raised sequinned lace, cotton, satin and silk jacquard to keep things interesting and really test her technique.  Tagg uses digital printing to create rich textures of ripped paper alongside a cherry blossom print and elaborate embellishment. Each garment is hand beaded, giving a real bespoke feel to each piece.

Blogger Pixie Tenenbaum with Love island's Gabby Allen at London Fashion Week

If you needed testament as to how cool this collection is, I actually spotted love Island’s Gabby Allen wearing the white raised sequin top from the collection, whilst viewing the collection.  Talk about inception.

Anyway, I’ll be back with more just as soon as I can download my imagery, in a while crocodile…

Pixie xo

Categories: The Fashion Closet

Fortie Label FW18 at London Fashion Week

After another rather bland and boring New York Fashion Week the baton has been handed to London and we’ve come to learn that over the past few years now, London is where Fashion Month really hits its stride.  What with it’s awesome street style, emerging talent, and well rooted, established designers, London Fashion Week has something that every fashion lover can appreciate and aspire to.

My start to London Fashion Week is always the same: severe train delays resulting in over half a day lost  and the FW18 show season was no different.  After an epic delay in excess of two hours, I finally arrived in the capital and met up with some familiar faces.  After checking in, I hotfooted it to my first show of the season, Fortie Label to find that I had one of the best seats in the house…

Show Pack FW18
Look 1 at Fortie Label FW18

If you’re thinking you’ve heard that name somewhere before, that’s because Rihanna commissioned this urban-luxe brand to produce part of her Anti world tour wardrobe; and if you haven’t heard of it yet, you’ve most definitely seen some of their designs on the likes of Jorja Smith, Kelela or Chaelin CL.  For their FW18 collection, Fashion Scout Merit Award winners Fortie Label drew inspiration from Forty Thieves, an all female London crime syndicate who were famously known for their antics through the 19th and 20th centuries.

Fortie Label FW17

The collection is an ode to female sexuality and empowerment and with its fierce girl gang aesthetic, it’s not hard to see why they were selected for the much coveted Merit Award.  Oversized boiler-suit silhouettes fashioned from stiffened voiles are paired with elements of the sports luxe trend, urban glamour and hints of resort wear.  Cropped hoodies, sheer tracksuits and high PVC shorts cement Fortie Label firmly on the radar of every hip, youthful female artist out there in 2018 and it won’t be long before you’re spotting pieces on MTV.  FW18 saw the return of the brand’s signature triple hoodie alongside a revamped corset fashioned from denim.  A collaboration with swimwear designer Louisa Ballou resulted in a base layer of overlay bikinis with bamboo detailing.

The colour palette for the entire collection was a warm mix of caramel tones with accents of tangerine, indigo and blue with textures ranging from denim, to tulle and faux fur.  Fortie Label founder and designer Essie Buckman demonstrates her meticulous eye for detail with this collection which was produced through traditional textile development and construction techniques rather than resorting to cheaper, mass production.

As far as Fashion Week openers go, Fortie Label put in a strong show, with a hip hop dance finale and Fortie Dollars flipped all over the runway from the opening act, this is a show that was never going to be boring.  One thing’s for sure, New York Fashion Week may have only been a few days ago, but it’s long since forgotten as London picks up the slack.

Pixie xo

Categories: The Fashion Closet

Amy Thomson FW18 at London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week is where the eclectics come out to play, it’s where we see some of the best emerging design talent in the world and were some of the most innovative designs are showcased.  For FW18 designer and illustrator Amy Thomson launched her collection ‘Chasin’ Dreams’ inspired by youthful aspirations.  Each look in the collection presents a character based on a profession seen from the perspective of a child.  Thomson poses the question – what does a Princess, Baker and Hairdresser look like through a child’s unaffected eyes?  How are these career paths defined in the mind of a child without any preconceptions?  Love pink?  Get ready for a whole load of it as Amy Thomson’s FW18 presentation is an Instagram dream…

“Telling a narrative and connecting with an audience is very important to myself as a designer.  ‘Chasin’ Dreams’ is based on real muses, real stories and my own and there is no story truer than the one you are living.”  Amy Thomson.

Thomson has created eight complete looks that embody a magical almost fairytale aesthetic, bringing to life the idea of focusing on your dreams.  She creates this magical feel with her larger-than-life hand rendered drawings that hold a distinctive and charming naivety, ensuring no two garments are the same. With dreamlike prints, motifs and her signature illustrations referencing each character appear throughout the narrative of the collection.

The tone for the season is undeniably pink. Thomson has concentrated on using a predominately and traditionally feminine colour palette, featuring fuchsias, baby pinks and vibrant rose contrasting with royal blues and lilacs.  Her use of contrasting and unusual textures can be seen throughout and this serves to add to the playful, otherworldly feel of the collection.  The metallic leather is a particular highlight and something I kinda feel like I need in my life for next season.

The collection is littered with ribbons, bows and frills giving a three dimensional feel to each piece and the addition of headwear pieces designed in collaboration with headwear designer Katie Hamlett of Sassy Freak, sees the accessories really form a part of the whole ensemble.  FW18 sees the addition of printed scarves, motif tights and embellished handbags elevate the clothing beyond that of a collection, to the creation of an imaginary world reminiscent of a dreamscape.

Given that this is only Thomson’s second collection (her first was shown at Graduate Fashion Week) she’s establishing herself within a niche of formidable talent currently dominated by Billie Jacobina.  Personally I’m intrigued by this designer fascinated by the whimsical and am looking forward to seeing how the collection is received by the industry and what could be in store for SS19, this is one label that’s right up my street.

Pixie xo

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

How do you know if an event is part of official London Fashion Week?

It only feels like a week or two since the SS18 show season ended and here we are on the cusp of season switchover.  For those of you who aren’t au fait with the fashion calendar (and I know you’re out there because you’ve tweeted, messaged and emailed me about this subject), there are two buying seasons which the schedule works around.  Spring / Summer (SS) and Fall / Winter (FW) – referred to in British fashion publishing as AW.

The official London Fashion Week LogoOK, now you’ve got the basics, let’s ramp up the deets.  So, because Fashion Month is geared towards buyers and press, the collections are shown in sample sizes and in advance of the season switchover.  Ergo, Spring / Summer collections are shown in Fall, and Fall / Winter collections are shown in Spring.  Got that?  This gives buyers the chance to select the designs they want to run with in advance of the season and designers the time to make a full collection with pieces in a range of sizes.  This is why the garments you see on the runway might have raw edges or be finished in places with tacking thread – not really visible on the runway but allows for last minute fit alterations.

London Fashion Week is where the magic happens.  I’m based in the UK so you may think I’m biased but I’ve frequented The Big Four throughout my career in fashion and there’s just something special about London.  Whether it’s the emerging talent keen to please, or reinventions of the classics from stalwarts like Paul Costelloe, there’s just so much to take in during Fashion Week in London.

That’s another thing, London Fashion Week is a pretty singular event, it has two main locations for it’s designated show spaces, along with several designer selected satellite spaces for those who want to offer something extra special.  Now this may sound simple but there’s a lot of confusion and exploitation around London Fashion Week‘s name; basically, if it’s not official London Fashion Week, then it’s just not London Fashion Week.  Let me explain, throughout the duration of London Fashion Week, brands, independents, designers, charities and other companies will capitalise on the traffic (both online and physical foot flow) and buzz of London Fashion Week by staging their events at the same time and trading off the name.  Put simply, these are nothing at all to do with London Fashion Week and aren’t affiliated with either Fashion Scout or the British Fashion Council in any way, but they may use the power of suggestion and excellent timing to let you think that they are.  It’s a sneaky and very naughty move that hasn’t gone unnoticed by the BFC who seek to ban any professionals using LFW tags on their non-LFW content, from London Fashion Week events.  Still with me??

the logo for separate fashion event by the independent London fashion week designers association

Completely separate fashion events, which make an independent and one-sided decision, align themselves to the Fashion Week schedule and are allowed to say that they take place ‘at the same time as’ or ‘during but not affiliated with’ London Fashion Week.  Yet you’ll find it’s very rare that they declare this, with the exception of the Independent London Fashion Week Designers Association (ILFWDA) who held their inaugural event in 2018 and stated that their event would take place ‘during London Fashion Week’.  Still a little woolly though right?  Basically if it doesn’t have the official London Fashion Week logo featured on it’s advertising and it’s not on either the ‘On’ or ‘Off’ schedule of Fashion Scout or BFC, then it’s just not LFW.

I’m not saying there’s any shame in running a non-LFW affiliated event or schedule, some independents are capitalising on the foot flow and interest successfully without infringing any of the rules around advertising a fashion event.  Kudos.  There is however shame in claiming that an event is part of something, when it isn’t.  It’s like me turning up to a movie theatre to see Suicide Squad in full Harley Quinn regalia claiming that I should be allowed to see the movie for free because I am in fact, Harley Quinn.  Just for transparency Voyeurs, I have never done this, but for illustration purposes, you get it right?

The reason for this post is that it came up on a night out with a Fashion PR, a couple of Fashion Editors and some other Fash Friends.  We talked about how Influencers are called out for minor things left, right and centre, but never brands for blatantly flouting the very clear guidelines, nay rules, on running any kind of event.  The general consensus is that if a brand is using Fashion Week as a way of drawing your attention to their own event, it’s because they don’t have confidence in their own brand without the security blanket of the London Fashion Week tag.  Basically, if you know anything about the schedule and how easy it is to check, you don’t do it.  Also, it makes you look like a massive douche.

It’s not just fashion either, it’s like your local football club running a kids club during The World Cup, which is great, awesome in fact, but if they claim that kids club is on The World Cup schedule is it still so great?  Yeah, now you get it.  Feel free to stop scrolling so you can facepalm.

Pixie xo