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Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet, The Glorious North East

Love Niche FW16 Collection

Twice yearly, in line with the off-schedule fashion calendar, Newcastle based Fashion Designer Nisha Vedhara curates and prepares a multi tiered collection to present to the fashionistas of the North.

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Nisha and I have been friends for a few years now and although I’m probably biased, I speak the truth when I tell you she puts on a formidable show.  Each season Nisha partners with a local charity, suicide prevention and support charity If U Care Share was selected as the partner for The Art of Style FW 16, with a proportion of funds raised going to benefit local families affected by suicide.  Having been affected by suicide in my family, I can’t give enough props for this. ??

Nisha’s approach to her collection is three dimensional; her signature Love Niche line is actually designed and made by her, from sketch, to completion.  She scours the globe for fabrics, prints and anything else she can use in her collections with inspiration coming mainly from India and the vivid, rich colours and textures available there.

Love Niche Fashion Show At Hood Street Club Newcastle Pictures By Alex Alevroyiannis
Love Niche Fashion Show At Hood Street Club Newcastle Pictures By Alex Alevroyiannis
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Love Niche Paris is Nisha’s most popular collection.   Curated and bought in according to trends on the runway by Nisha with a focus on the outfit as a whole, rather than single pieces.

Her third, more affordable collection is Love Niche London.  A diffusion line selected by Nisha to make the brand accessible, but still desirable.

This year, the Love Niche Fall / Winter showcase took place at The Assembly Rooms in Newcastle and for the first time ever, featured bespoke occasion wear designed and made by Nisha for real clients.  Not only was I invited along, but I was actually asked to model in the second part of the show!  Taking on a new format, the show was split into ready to wear, worn by models and then after a short interlude, bespoke occasion wear, worn by the women the garments were created for. (i.e. Me)

The show,  called The Moonlight Season, opened with Nisha’s own Cruise collection of bespoke kaftans and resort wear.  Models walked the candlelit runway wearing striking flower crowns made by Kathryn Russell.  Miss Junior Teen Great Britain, Harriotte Lane opened the show and told me afterwards that there were just days to go before she handed the title over to her successor.  I took my seat with my photographer pal Hannah Todd, to take in the North East’s premier runway show….

First up, resort wear.  A pretty awesome collection of cool kaftans, cover ups and swimwear.  From racy fishnet throw on dresses, to soft, floaty full length waistcoats, the collection didn’t disappoint and was a lot more fresh and urban than Nisha’s usual classic offering.  With the darker theme this season and topped with flower crowns, models looked like they’d strode straight off a Lana Del Rey video shoot.

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Image Credit: Keith Fusco, KIS Studios
Image Credit: Keith Fusco, KIS Studios

Love Niche Paris gave us structured dresses, fur stoles and palazzo pants, armour for the modern day girl boss and like nothing else you’ll find on the high street.

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Love Niche London is probably the most anticipated collection purely because of its affordability and wearability.  Think runway trends re-spun for the highstreet with a classic vibe.  The collection was full of stripes and separates finished off with hats, city gloves and chain belts.

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Nisha’s high end signature line, Love Niche was a collection of high octane occasion wear for urban warrior women.  Guaranteed to create drama and turn heads, the collection garnered applause and a collective ‘ooooooooh’ from the sell out crowd.  The stand out piece?  A floor length dress coat with a nipped in waist and flared skirt worn by Miss Durham GB, Taylor Hamilton which opened and flared as she strutted the runway.  TDF ?

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Next up, my turn.  After being asked so many times about her bespoke collection, Nisha decided to enlist the help of the women she’s created one off pieces for.  For the first time ever, Nisha’s actual clients took to the runway in one off, show stopping creations designed in collaboration with each client and made by Nisha.

 

Our outfits were styled in the way we’d wear them ourselves so that the audience could see the versatility and personality in each piece.  I wore my long sleeved sequinned top with a full skirt from Coast and a black velvet cape – very gothic princess.  The bespoke luxe runway show also featured PR gurus Claire Barber and Sarah Hall and Rita Gray, a lady who’s become a friend of mine after Nisha introduced us a few years back (she calls me Carrie Bradshaw ❤️) and it added a new dimension to the show which showgoers agreed afterwards, allowed the audience to see how Nisha’s creations might be worn in ‘real life’.

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The Moonlight Season was certainly darker and a lot more edgy and relevant than previous seasons.  The collection felt like more of a ‘journey’ than it has done before.  Maybe it was the venue, or the fresher cast of models but the show seemed slicker and told the story of the collections effortlessly.  Resort wear was a highlight, it was clear from the first outfit that Nisha had upped her game and come out stronger than ever before.  With a whopping 83 outfits on show at The Midnight Sessions, I can’t wait to see how she tops this in Spring / Summer 2017.

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Image Credit: Keith Fusco, KIS Studios

If you fancy checking out the ready to wear collections, then head to Love Niche Studio, a show space that feels a world away from the busy city and the hustle of the Grainger Market beneath it.  Nisha also offers her bespoke dressmaking service from here or a personal styling service if you’re not sure where to start and she’s her own best advert, she rarely wears anything other than Love Niche and damn, can she put an outfit together.

Pixie xo

 

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

The History of the Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra

The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is something everybody fashionista worth her Manolos looks forward each year, and with it comes the Fantasy Bra.  An exquisite piece of craftsmanship which takes all year to design, make and fit to the chosen model.

A firm fixture in the Fashion Calendar, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show wasn’t always quite so prominent.  Starting life as a trade show in the 90’s shown right before Valentine’s Day, back them the show was a very different story to the huge feathered and rhinestone studded production of today.

Every year since 1996, one lucky VS Angel is selected to showcase the multi million dollar Fantasy Bra; now the centrepiece of the show and the equivalent of NASA’s launch pad for the Angel chosen.  What you might not know is that between 1996 and 2000, the Fantasy Bra was a catalogue only item as it was deemed too expensive to be worn on the runway (none have ever been sold).

From the first ever show held at The Plaza Hotel in New York in 1995 to 2016, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is probably the best example of clever marketing that you’ll ever see in the fashion world.  From the pre-show #TrainLikeAnAngel campaign that flogs the brand’s sportswear line, to the YouTube broadcast castings and subsequent fittings, the whole thing is a well oiled machine masterminded by Ed Razek, with a little pre-show help from Russell James.  James photographed each of the Angels nude for a $250 book to accompany the show.

I was lucky enough to be invited to the 2014 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show held at Earl’s Court in London and everything, and I mean everything is a slick operation.  It’s a world created entirely for the viewer.  Everything you witness as a member of the press is created for just that purpose and the Angels are more than willing to perform.  It’s a fascinating production to be a part of and the duties of an Angel are so much more than just walking the runway, I could dedicate an entire post to the production of the show and everything that surrounds it including the media machine that’s created in the run up to show day; but this is all about the Fantasy Bra.  So sit back and enjoy every Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra that has ever graced a Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show….

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1996 – The first Fantasy Bra was worn by Claudia Schiffer and unveiled in print on the cover of the Valentine’s catalogue.  With 100 carats of diamonds it was given the title ‘The Million Dollar Miracle Bra’.

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1997 – Don’t be fooled by how understated this Fantasy Bra appears.  Costing a cool $3 million, the bra was worn by Tyra Banks and featured a 42 carat pear cut diamond at the very centre.

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1998 – The VS creative team took things up a notch with this $5 million ‘Dream Angel’ Fantasy Bra worn by Daniela Pestova.  Featuring a whopping 330 carats of pear and marquise cut diamonds, set amongst 77 carats of marquise cut rubies and mouldable platinum.

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1999 – The year that the Fantasy Bra became a ‘costume’ and people sat up and took notice.  Very visibly different to anything else in the catalogue, the ‘Millennium Bra’ was worn by Heidi Klum and with over 4000 diamonds and sapphires, the price tag was a cool $10 million.

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2000 – This $15 million ‘Red Hot’ Fantasy Bra set a Guiness World Record for Most Expensive Piece of Lingerie (until 2006).  Encrusted with over 300 Thai Rubies the Red Hot Fantasy Bra, worn by Gisele, gave Victoria’s Secret the idea to start including the Fantasy Bra in the annual show.

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2001 – Heidi Klum was the first Angel to walk the runway in a Fantasy Bra.  The ‘Heavenly Star’ demi bra was made up of pink sapphires with a 90 carat emerald cut diamond in the centre.  At $12.5 million you’d think they could have made one to fit…

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2002 – The ‘Star of Victoria’ Fantasy Bra was created to give the look of an English country rose garden, studded with rubies and emeralds galore, the bra cost a whopping $10 million and was worn by rising star (at the time) Karolina Kurkova.

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2003 – Wearing her third fantasy Bra, Heidi Klum took to the runway in the (slightly better fitting) ‘Very Sexy’ Fantasy Bra costing $11 million and featuring the second largest diamond in the world at 70 carats.

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2004 – The £10 million ‘Heavenly 70’ Fantasy Bra was worn by Tyra Banks and was for print only as the off schedule Angel’s Across America show took place that year.  Featuring  diamonds set in white gold with an awesome 70 carat pear cut diamond at its centre.

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2005 – Gisele took on the ‘Sexy Splendour’ Fantasy Bra and this show really embraced themes, shaping the show as we know it now, with a 101 fancy-cut swing diamond, the bra was valued at $12.5 million.

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11th Victoria's Secret Fashion Show - Runway

2006 – Now on to her second Fantasy Bra, Karolina Kurkova wore the $6.5 million ‘Hearts On Fire’ Fantasy bra featuring over 2000 single diamonds and a huge 10 carat stone as the centrepiece.

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2007 – The ‘Holiday’ Fantasy Bra was worn by Selita Ebanks and was the first year that the costume featured a garter, barrette & cuff as part of the ensemble.  Encrusted in diamonds, yellow sapphires, rubies and emeralds, the bra was the first to embrace the Holiday season.

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2008 – Starting to look familiar Voyeurs? Introducing Adriana Lima as the Angel she was meant to be.  Wearing the $5 million ‘Black Diamond’ Fantasy bra, Lima took centre stage for the first time and the world sat up and took notice.  With over 1500 carats in this fantasy Bra, this shaped the show as we know it.

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2009 – The $3 million ‘Harlequin’ Fantasy Bra was worn by Marisa Miller and was made up of 2355 diamonds with a 16-carat heart shaped diamond pendant centrepiece.

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2010 – The ‘Bombshell’ Fantasy Bra was Adriana Lima’s second outing wearing the coveted showstopper.  With 60 carats of white diamonds as well as blue topaz and sapphires, the bra was valued at $2 million and cemented Lima at the top of her game.

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2011 – The ‘Fantasy Treasure’ Bra was worn by Miranda Kerr and incorporated Victoria’s Secret’s famous ‘wings’ or in this case, a piece fashioned to resemble an oyster shell.  with 3379 stones including yellow and colourless diamonds to the tune of of 142 carats, citrines, pearls and aquamarines, the bra was valued at $2.5 million and was finished with a pearl centrepiece.

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2012 – Alessandra Ambrosio wore the $2.5 million ‘Floral Fantasy’ Bra, moving towards the full VSFS costume we’re used to seeing today the style featured floral wings and panniers secured with a diamond chain belt, and over 5000 gems.  Amethysts, rubies, sapphires, tsavorites and pink, yellow and white diamonds made up the intricate floral design and just like Adriana Lima, Ambrosio became a household name.

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2013 – The ‘Royal’ Fantasy Bra was a sight to behold, worn by Candice Swanepoel, the bra and belt topped out at $10 million and featured over 4200 gem stones including diamonds, rubies and yellow sapphires with a 52 carat pear shaped ruby swinging from the centre.  Hand set in 18 karat gold, the ‘Royal’ saw the Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra elevated to the Big Leagues.

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2014 – For the first time ever, Victoria’s Secret made two Fantasy Bras for the UK show named the ‘Dream Angels’ fantasy bras.  Worn by Adriana Lima and Alessandra Ambrosio, it was widely speculated that the girls were set to retire after the London show and that this would be their parting gift – this was not the case.  valued at $2 million each, the ensembles were dripping in 16000 blue sapphires, diamonds and rubies set in 18 karat gold.  I was lucky enough to be at this show and got within touching distance of both of these backstage!

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2015 – The modestly priced $2 million ‘Firework’ Fantasy bra was worn by Lily Aldridge and is one of the tamest to be seen in recent years.  It left fans of the VS Fashion Show underwhelmed and was criticised on social media.  Made up of white diamonds, blue topaz, yellow sapphires and pink quartz and set in 18 karat gold, the wings and matching panniers were created to replicate the effect of fireworks on July 4th.

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2016 – This year marks the 20th anniversary of the VS Fantasy Bra and the brand wanted to bring something new.  After suffering a 35% drop in ratings in 2015 which has been hurtful to the brand, 25 year old Jasmine Tookes was selected to wear the ‘Bright Night’ Fantasy bra.  Made up of 9000 gems and 27000 Swarovski crystals set in 18 karat gold and valued at $3 million, the bra is a step away from the Fantasy Bra’s shown in recent years – a conscious decision for the brand.  Unretouched pictures of Tookes’ Fantasy Bra shoot were also leaked online – rumoured to be a ploy by the brand itself.

“The energy is going to be amazing in Paris, everyone is so excited—it’s going to be one of the best VS shows yet!”  Jasmine Tookes, VS Angel

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2017 – The Champagne Nights Fantasy Bra was designed exclusively for Victoria’s Secret by Mouawad Jewellery.  Brazilian Angel Lais Ribeiro was selected to wear the $2 million Fantasy Bra which took almost 350 hours to craft using just under 600 gem stones including yellow sapphires, blue topaz and diamonds, all set in 18 karat gold on a Dream Angel Demi Bra

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2018 – The Dream Angels Fantasy Bra took over 930 hours to make and has been set in sterling silver to showcase over 21,000 Swarovski created diamonds, a first for a Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra.  The bralette and matching Swarovski by Cristopher Kane body chain was designed for Victoria’s Secret Angel Elsa Hosk and has been valued at a cool $1 million.  The centre piece alone weighs more than 71 carats.

So there you have it Voyeurs, your definitive guide to the Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra.  All that’s left now is for you to sit tight and wait for the next VS Fashion Show to air…..

Pixie xo

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

LFW: CIMONE SS17

Carli Pearson, Founder and Creative Director of new womenswear label, CIMONE was trained at Central Saint Martins and prior to launching her own brand, she honed her craft in a variety of senior positions at some of the world’s top houses. She spent her first seven years at Stella McCartney, later moving on to become Design Director at Alexander Wang, Head of Show Collection at Pucci, and Head of Womenswear at McQ, Alexander McQueen.

Her second collection for spring/summer 2017, and first runway collection was shown as part of London Fashion Week’s SS17 season and received to rapturous applause.

A web of contradictions, the collection saw control versus chaos and high-end production values paired with repurposed textures; focusing on the interplay between naivety and self-assuredness.

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statement pieces featured unique, interactive embellishment, moving with models bodies and reacting in unique ways, never appearing the same way twice.  A subtle and muted whitewash was brought to life with a vibrant injection of juxtaposed bold colour, appearing as splashes and stripes.

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Very obviously influenced by the late Lee Mcqueen, Pearson has focused on confidence as the recurrent theme throughout the SS17 collection – with a little fun thrown in for good measure.

Pixie xo

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Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

Fun Affair: Girls Grow Up at LFW

If you’re familiar with the London Fashion Scene then you’ll already be aware of Fun Affair.  Known for it’s gamine aesthetic and off-beat presentations, the brand oozes 90’s cool like no other.  From the in your face logos to the vinyl baseball caps, Fun Affair is one brand that should be on your radar.

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Integrating abstraction exotica, minimalism and subversion, designer Xi Zhu strives to create an avant-garde and elegant sphere of design.   Zhu merges her oriental heritage with European romanticism and modernism to define her signature: ‘rebellion meets optimism’.  Seemingly on a mission absolute to manifest extreme beauty, marrying oriental beauty with mystery, stillness and power, Zhu is a designer for the modern day feminist crusader.

Hosted by LFW’s younger, funkier sister, Fashion Scout, the Fun Affair show begins in a perfectly white space allowing the garments to speak volumes.

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The Fun Affair SS17 collection is all of that and more and the runway show is a journey from start to finish.  Inspired by the New Romantics, 80’s power dressing and postmodernism.  The SS17 Fun Affair-girl is edgy, feminine and sophisticated with just the right amount of attitude.  A girl gang for a new generation, and one I find myself wanting to be part of.

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This season is all about playing with proportion and form. I caught up with Zhu after the show, noticeably nervous, she told me “It’s about women’s strength and rebelliousness, did you see the last look?  That’s my favourite thing I’ve ever created”

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Highlights of the show and top of my shopping list were oversized bow knot shirts, high gloss 90’s style slipdresses, high-waisted jeans & baseball caps, and yes, the last look was my absolute favourite, in fact I’m working on recreating it right now….

Pixie xo

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Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

London Fashion Week SS17

If there’s one Fashion Week that’s associated with new talent and a passion for supporting the underdog, it’s London Fashion Week; and with the likes of Prophetik, Gareth Pugh and Mulberry all showing strong collections, it looks like the bar is set to keep on rising.

I’m headed to London SUPER early in the morning for three jam packed days of shows and events and a special something from one of my all time favourite designers (more on that later).

Stay tuned Voyeurs, after a very mediocre NYFW, I’m predicting big things from London.  BIG things….

Pixie xo

 

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FASHION VOYEUR
People will stare, make it worth their while

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mrswamsbsgans leyla 🍒 @mrswamsbsgans ·
24 Feb

and if i say this is one of the best episodes of television of all time?????

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16 Feb

Elizabeth Taylor is asked if her beauty was a curse (1999). Love her answer.

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16 Feb

Top of the Pops (16th February 1978). Kate Bush makes her TOTP debut.

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