The latest incarnation of London Fashion Week saw trailblazing post-growth couture designer Lucy Tammam launch a new concept: a bespoke collection of extremely limited-edition garments. ‘Coup D’Pleats’ is the latest iteration in TAMMAM’s sustainable couture offer, crafted in the label’s original and iconic ‘Climate Stripes’ design. Each stripe in the specially hand-woven red and blue fabric represents the average temperature of our warming planet over 174 years, including a new darker red stripe that reflects the latest data and highlights passing 1.5 degrees. With the British Fashion Council’s new pledge on sustainability, there couldn’t have been a more perfect fit.

A selection of potential silhouettes from the collection made their debut during London Fashion Week in the stunning Grade II listed wood-paneled Piano Room at the Yamaha flagship store in Soho, London. This marks the beginning of a new partnership between TAMMAM and Yamaha, featuring live music from Yamaha’s music ambassadors, and a selection of special guests.

“Coup D’Pleats embodies TAMMAM’s ongoing commitment to raise awareness of climate change, while building a long-lasting, sustainable, experiential fashion label that balances business with a transparent, truly ethical approach. I am delighted that this partnership with Yamaha Music London will highlight the wonderful alliance between music and fashion, and of course craft – my favoured conduit to sustainability.” Lucy Tammam

This collection paves the way for ‘Show Your Stripes Day’ on June 21st, an initiative led by renowned climate scientist, and creator of the stripe’s graphic, Professor Ed Hawkins from the University of Reading. The initiative encourages individuals, businesses, and cities worldwide to start conversations about the rapid pace of climate change and emphasises the need for urgent action. An event in June, hosted by TAMMAM & Yamaha will celebrate SYSD and mark the start of London Climate Action Week 2025.

“As a brand steeped in tradition and the art of creating wonderful instruments from natural materials – building instruments that last a lifetime, Yamaha has a deep respect for sustainability, a commitment to sourcing sustainable raw materials, and adhering to responsible supply chain management practices. We are thrilled to partner with TAMMAM. The ethos behind the TAMMAM climate stripes collection aligns perfectly with Yamaha’s brand philosophy,” Stephen Davies, Retail Operations Manager.

Pleats Planet People Patience Perfection

About Coup D’Pleats

The climate stripes were designed by Professor Ed Hawkins at the university of Reading in a fabric handwoven by an ethical cooperative in the Kannur region of Kerala, ensuring fair pay and sustainable business practices. It’s made from organic cotton with a subtle stripe, or organic cotton woven with Tencel luxe, resulting in a luxurious satin that nods to mid-century textile trends, yet appeals to contemporary fashion tastes.

Coup D’Pleats limits production to a very small number of garments, ensuring exclusivity and offering an authentic couture experience. Each silhouette is designed as a one off by TAMMAM, to customers’ requirements, with a few set parameters ensuring zero waste. The designs aim to minimize impact at production, use and afterlife stages, whilst TAMMAM’s signature drapery and couture finishing elevate the final garments. By offering each piece on a bespoke, but defined basis, and ensuring all creations are intrinsically conversation starters about climate change, TAMMAM is dressing the resistance, and uprising against current models which desperately need revolutionising.

A very limited number of pleated climate stripe skirts from the Coup D’Pleats concept will be produced between March and June 2026, with all pieces made to order at the TAMMAM Atelier in Bloomsbury.

Luxury ready-to-wear brand Naomi Hart makes its hotly anticipated London Fashion Week debut, unveiling a striking collection that merges bold artistic expression with expert craftsmanship. Founded by London College of Fashion graduate Abigail Naomi Hart, her eponymous brand sets itself apart for its sculpted silhouettes and super sharp tailoring.

The designer’s journey is deeply rooted in art and craftsmanship. Raised in the Peak District, surrounded by nature and guided by her artist father, Abigail developed an early passion for organic shapes and textures. A key influence is her deep connection to motorcycles (super cool right?), an experience rooted in her bond with her father and notably recurring in her designs which feature sculpted leather and are reminiscent of functional biker jackets. Her background in painting evolved into a fascination with fashion, treating the human form as a three-dimensional canvas. Every garment is meticulously designed and handcrafted in her London-based studio, ensuring an unparalleled level of artistry and precision from pattern cutting to final construction.

“The ‘Biker Girl’ aesthetic in my past collections represents power, confidence, and liberty,” she says. “I’ve never felt more alive than when I’m on a motorbike.” Naomi Hart

For Unproductive Thinking, contrasting fabrics, silhouettes, and personalities define the collection; a montage of organic shapes and marbled leather. Like her graduate collection— influenced by Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland— Hart takes us down a rabbit hole into a fanciful world of opposites and colour. Her lineup of flared and streamlined silhouettes draws from the youthquake spirit of 1960s counterculture.

This debut collection takes its name from Crazy Clown Time‘s album track, Strange and Unproductive Thinking(2011), famously composed by director David Lynch, known for surrealist cult classics like Twin Peaks. The spoken-word song explores themes of cosmic awareness and Transcendental Meditation. For the show, music artist Freya Everest has curated a mix of Lynch’s piece with Al Bowlly’s Midnight, the Stars and You(1934). The latter’s old-fashioned tone is offset by its reputation as the central tune in Stanley Kubrick’s 1980 horror film The Shining.

Stripes of pale canary yellow and cornsilk pigments taper off into dramatic flared trousers, while signature panels and florals capture a euphoric naïveté – girls on the cusp of womanhood. Naomi’s signature panels and leather are consistent throughout the collection, shapeshifting from sunlit creams to crimson, black, and burgundy – moving from youthful innocence to coquettish sensuality. This progression exposes the contrary nature of the human condition, fluctuating between polar states of mind and fluid emotions. As the carousel of optimistic yellows matures into darker pigments, heart-shaped necklines and quilted jackets emerge, alongside militant, utilitarian floor-length coats in electric lavender and carmine embellishments.

There’s also a coquettish nod to futurism within the collection with the use of tubed charcoal neoprene and linear striped ensembles, inspired by André Courrèges’ modernism and the era’s obsession with space-age themes. The collection’s black garments are playfully rounded off with an exaggerated flared dress, boldly colour-blocked with monochrome florals.

At the core of the collection are magnetic stripes and marbled fabrics, referencing the fluid lattice of a sliced geode. According to Hart, these pieces have been designed to reflect the brand’s core values: individuality, empowerment, and allowing the wearer’s attitude to be seen, felt, and celebrated. These traits are emblematic of the designer herself, weaving a tapestry of Naomi’s personality and childhood. The statement biker ensembles speak to her love for jetting around Derby’s countryside on a motorbike.

“Every garment is tailored to a client’s specific preferences. Not one piece is the same or made by anyone else’s hands. This is the beauty of bespoke tailoring.” Naomi Hart

The collection ends on a glamorous note with a sumptuously quilted scarlet taffeta coat gathered below the waist. Originally a toile (a test piece), the garment was deconstructed and refined for the runway—a notable decision reflecting Naomi’s sustainable practices and skilled craftsmanship. Like the artists she admires, the designer treats the human body as a three-dimensional canvas, contrasting structured tailoring and corsets with sculpted, flowing curves that accentuate the figure. Neoprene hip details and strong-shouldered jackets continue her exploration of Surrealism and the conscious vs. unconscious mind. Meanwhile, the hand-made nature of the pieces underscores the designer’s precision and individual expression.

Will we see a sophomore collection from Hart in September? Here’s hoping.

With thanks to:

Show Producer: Abigail Hart @naomihartlondon

Creative Director: Abigail Hart @naomihartlondon

Lead Makeup Artist: Nicky Ruisch @facesbynicky

Make-up Assistants Maria Bouctch @mariabouchtmakeup

Diana Redondo @dianarm_mua

Hair: Jonna @jonnajonnajooo

Photographer: @rosslynphotographer

Season after season Paul Costelloe puts on one of my favourite shows. It’s one that I look forward to from the moment the invitation lands in the mailbox, as soon as I see Paul’s signature illustrations against a London skyline, I know that we’re in for a treat.

“Keep the home fires burning and continue to dream”. Paul Costelloe

For Autumn/Winter 2025 Paul Costelloe brings his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, to the London Fashion Week catwalk. Shown in his trademark venue of the Palm Court, the AW25 collection showcases those silhouettes and complex cuts infused with volume and print that we’ve come to expect from this British powerhouse. Inspired by his life-long love of equestrian skill, Paul has created a collection which reflects strength, volume, space and energy.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection showcases his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection showcases his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection showcases his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection showcases his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection showcases his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection showcases his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

Sumptuous heritage fabrics from Magees of Ireland and Harris of Scotland work in harmony with Paul’s innate skill to create shapes and structures to the highest expression in design. Paul delves into an Autumnal palette of chestnut browns, amber yellows, winter creams, berry reds and midnight blacks.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection showcases his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection showcases his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection showcases his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection showcases his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection showcases his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection showcases his heritage brand, Paul Costelloe Dressage, on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

for AW25 the in-house family team have created a narrative print, portraying the modern day equestrian world. Traditional Irish knitwear and wool hosiery add an element of rich texture to this majestic collection.

This season Paul has collaborated with jeweller P.K Bijoux to create complimentary pieces that add an element of glamour to the arena. Paul Costelloe Bags and Accessories introduce Dressage inspired leather pieces with a classic but contemporary aesthetic. Iconic saddle bags in full grain leathers with Dressage inspired hardware, full waisted leather belts and those all essential riding gloves, make this a gold medal worthy collection.

After a successful debut as part of Fashion Scout in 2024 Tifaret was part of Ontimeshow in Shanghai, where the brand received further acclaim within the fashion industry. It makes perfect sense then, that Tifaret, headed up by founder and creative director, Chiyue Dai, should return to the platform where it made its debut, further solidifying its place in the global fashion landscape. Through a seamless blend of cinematic storytelling, Eastern heritage, and cutting-edge craftsmanship, Tifaret continues to push the boundaries of contemporary womenswear.

Through a seamless blend of cinematic storytelling, Eastern heritage, and cutting-edge craftsmanship, Tifaret continues to push the boundaries of contemporary womenswear. For AW25, Tifaret draws inspiration from Michelangelo Antonioni’s masterpiece Red Desert, channelling its cinematic tension into a collection where icy restraint and molten romance collide. Translating the film’s theme of isolation, the colour palette features shades of ash, slate, and dove-grey, disrupted by rich jewel tones – a symbolic contrast between restraint and expression.

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Tiferet Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Tiferet Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Tiferet Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Tiferet Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Tiferet Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

Delicate Chinoiserie motifs appear throughout the collection, with embroidered peonies veiled in sheer lace. Tifaret’s latest collection’s silhouettes reimagine traditional Chinese garments with a deconstructed approach. Each piece is crafted to enhance movement and form, creating a wearable architectural aesthetic.

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Tiferet Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Tiferet Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Tiferet Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Tiferet Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Tiferet Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

Tifaret defies its youth with exceptional craftsmanship, using American Supima cotton, liquid silks, and fine woollens, complemented by organic horn buttons and sculptural fastenings. The collection also incorporates an impressive technical flair, including waterproof wool trench coats spun at high twists, laser-etched pleats, and 3D drafting techniques.

With thanks to:

Show Producer: Fashion Scout @fashionscout

Creative Director: Chiyue Dai – @chiyued

Hair: Unite Hair @diegomiranda @unite_hair

Makeup: Aofm Using Dermalogica Directed By Insert Lead Make-Up Artist @aofmakeup

Photographer: Chris Yates