The Fashion Closet Archives - Page 3 of 29

Barrus LFW AW25

Barrus returns to London Fashion Week with a collection inspired by the ancient city of Ephesus, where history and craftsmanship meet contemporary couture. Ephesus—once a thriving metropolis of art, architecture, and culture—now stands as a reminder of strength and resilience. This season, Barrus reinterprets its grandeur, balancing structured silhouettes with flowing drapery to reflect the city’s duality: the commanding presence of its iconic columns and the soft, sculptural folds seen in classical Greco-Roman garments.

The collection is a continuation of Barrus’ signature philosophy: merging heritage with modernity. Strong architectural shapes meet weightless fabrics, creating movement that mimics the passage of time. Metallic embroidery, intricate beading, and layered textures echo the grandeur of Ephesus’ ruins bathed in the golden hues of sunrise and sunset. SEE Structured column gowns, corseted waistlines, asymmetrical one-shoulder drapes, and goddess-like silhouettes bring the drama. Textured marble-effect prints and architectural pleating pay homage to ancient craftsmanship, while fluid chiffon and layered tulle add an ethereal softness. The color palette—soft greens, golden yellows, twilight lilacs, and ivory—mirrors the natural beauty of Ephesus at dawn and dusk.

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Barrus Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

TOUCH

Luxurious eco-conscious materials set the foundation: recycled fabrics, ethically sourced Bursa silk, delicate French lace,and gossamer-light tulle. Hand-beaded crystals shimmer like the first morning light over ancient stone, while silver-thread embroidery references the intricate mosaics of Ephesus.

HEAR

The collection comes to life through ‘Nar-i Aşk’ by Mercan Dede feat. Adil Kaan. The hypnotic soundscape blends traditional Turkish melodies with contemporary rhythms, mirroring the fusion of past and present seen in the designs.

EXPERIENCE

The runway transports guests into a world where time stands still. A softlylit set mimics the textures of ancient ruinswhile lighting transitions from warm orange to deep lilac, mirroring the changing sky over Ephesus. Barrus continues its journey of innovation while honoring tradition. This season, creative collaborations with stylist Irem Akalın and accessory designer Rahsan Valentine elevate the vision, while key sponsor Nutraxin reinforces the philosophy that beauty is both internal and external.

With thanks to:

Production: Fashion Scout

Stylist: Irem Akalin

Hair:by BTS HAIR.

Directed by Diego Miranda

Make-up:by AOFM using Dermalogica

Photographer:Chris Yates Photography

Videographer:Mr Poyraz Saroglu

Categories: The Fashion Closet

TIFARET LFW AW25

After a successful debut as part of Fashion Scout in 2024 Tifaret was part of Ontimeshow in Shanghai, where the brand received further acclaim within the fashion industry. It makes perfect sense then, that Tifaret, headed up by founder and creative director, Chiyue Dai, should return to the platform where it made its debut, further solidifying its place in the global fashion landscape. Through a seamless blend of cinematic storytelling, Eastern heritage, and cutting-edge craftsmanship, Tifaret continues to push the boundaries of contemporary womenswear.

Through a seamless blend of cinematic storytelling, Eastern heritage, and cutting-edge craftsmanship, Tifaret continues to push the boundaries of contemporary womenswear. For AW25, Tifaret draws inspiration from Michelangelo Antonioni’s masterpiece Red Desert, channelling its cinematic tension into a collection where icy restraint and molten romance collide. Translating the film’s theme of isolation, the colour palette features shades of ash, slate, and dove-grey, disrupted by rich jewel tones – a symbolic contrast between restraint and expression.

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Tiferet Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

Delicate Chinoiserie motifs appear throughout the collection, with embroidered peonies veiled in sheer lace. Tifaret’s latest collection’s silhouettes reimagine traditional Chinese garments with a deconstructed approach. Each piece is crafted to enhance movement and form, creating a wearable architectural aesthetic.

New Inn Yard, London, 21st February 2025. A model walks in the Tiferet Catwalk show. ©Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

Tifaret defies its youth with exceptional craftsmanship, using American Supima cotton, liquid silks, and fine woollens, complemented by organic horn buttons and sculptural fastenings. The collection also incorporates an impressive technical flair, including waterproof wool trench coats spun at high twists, laser-etched pleats, and 3D drafting techniques.

With thanks to:

Show Producer: Fashion Scout @fashionscout

Creative Director: Chiyue Dai – @chiyued

Hair: Unite Hair @diegomiranda @unite_hair

Makeup: Aofm Using Dermalogica Directed By Insert Lead Make-Up Artist @aofmakeup

Photographer: Chris Yates

Categories: The Fashion Closet

Sustainability Hits London Fashion Week

With more and more focus on sustainability, contributors to London Fashion Week have had to seriously up their game in recent seasons. Since going fur free in 2018, huge strides have been made to introduce not just a focus on sustainable fashion, it’s no longer enough to just state it and make a few changes. Designers are now expected to produce ethical collections; from the way fabric is manufactured or sourced, to the distance it travels to reach a studio. Fibre miles are every bit as important as conscious collections, circular fashion and the wages that are paid to those involved along the way. Sustainability is everywhere in fashion right now. What once was a buzzword thrown around for quick credit, has become a status symbol amongst some of the biggest fashion houses out there and some, like British designer Phoebe English are setting a stellar example.

Creative designers who are fully invested in sustainability are shunning the fashion calendar’s ‘seasons’ in favour of an annual collection produced in a far more environmentally economical way, resulting in less air travel, fibre miles and carbon emissions, opting for the slow fashion model which spends more time on ethical sourcing of dead stock, off cuts and foraged fabrics which can be hand dyed using hand collected natural and native ingredients to produce very specific colours which have not only meaning, but relevance to where they were collected and produced. Phew, deep breath. Basically sustainability as a whole picture, is king right now.

This SS24 season has seen the words “sustainable” “circular” and “reworked” used more times than ever before and a quick search on Instagram tells us that these terms are searched for more and more frequently when it comes to updating our wardrobes as the end user. More than just a buzzword, clients want to know more than just where their clothes were made, but with what, by whom and how far it has travelled, what chemicals were used during production and how it got to be that “sunflower yellow” colour.

Of course there have long been the stalwarts like the afore mentioned Phoebe English who has championed every aspect of circular fashion since her graduate collection in 2011, through to Paul Costello’s who produces a “shop window” style collection meaning that the collection you see on the runway is produced to show you what you can request if you like what you see. Nothing at all is produced in wholesale or stored in large volumes completely eliminating waste from the process but remaining accessible to serious buyers.

Jayne Pierson SS24

Stuart Trevor’s reworked vintage

Jayne Pierson SS24

On the “trendier” end of the scale, designers like Jayne Pierson and Stuart Trevor are producing edgy, even fun collections which tell a story, but maintain those sustainable production credits. Trevor with his reworked vintage collection is a perfect example of this and with his collaborations with up and coming artists this works as a kind of “ethical handshake”.

Whether you buy fast fashion at online chains, or high street fashion in physical stores, there’s no denying the (electric) juggernaut that is the sustainable model for slow fashion, the anti-thesis to the archetypical fast fashion the British buying public seemed to enjoy pre-pandemic. However now, post-pandemic, as we’ve all seemed to slow down our overly Fast paced lives, isn’t it time we did the same for our wardrobes?

Categories: The Archives, The Fashion Closet

Stuart Trevor Launches Customised Vintage Collection at London Fashion Week

I’ve been friends with Stuart Trevor for a few years now and knowing that if he says he’s up to something, it’s most definitely looking out for, has become one of my spidey-senses.

So, if the name sounds familiar it’s because it most definitely is. As the founder of All Saints (the clothing brand not the band), Trevor has been in the fashion industry for certainly as long as I can remember. From the first time he put a vintage tailor’s label into a machine washed leather jacket, he determined his signature style; modern vintage.

With dalliances with Reiss, Immortal and even Leon (the food chain) under his belt, it was only a matter of time before we saw Stuart Trevor the man, become Stuart Trevor the brand. His ideas are simplistic but super effective and they gather pace quickly, in essence, Trevor has an idea and it hits reality at the speed of light.

With this latest self titled brand, Trevor takes genuine vintage pieces, mostly military, and furnishes them with either hand painted designs using local artists (in this case it’s the artist Timothy Midnight and his Cats Who…. Collection), or picks them apart and introduces new and contradictory fabrics such as a military shirt with a lace back, or a flight suit with that now infamous tailors label. Whilst his previous offerings have been in high end high street fashion, think accessible luxury that everyone had to have a piece of; the new Stuart Trevor brand sits somewhere between high street and just out of reach for mere mortals.

The pieces are all numbered and produced in small batches in order to retain their uniqueness, but also to cut down on fibre miles and environmental costs associated with producing huge, twice yearly collections. The collection is currently in production, during London Fashion Week we attended a storehouse type presentation and live photoshoot showcasing the completed works on which the rest of the collection will be based. I’ve already put my name down for some painted Cats denim and a flight suit….

Categories: The Fashion Closet

Pam Hogg SS24 – Dedicated to Sinead O’Connor

Dr Pam Hogg has always been the enfant terrible in the fashion industry, the rockstar romantic who pushes boundaries. It’s clear to see why the fashion designer has become a favourite of Lady Gaga and Kate moss amongst others.

Known as the Caledonian Queen of Cling, Hogg defies convention in her continuously re-purposed collections using vinyl, leather, PVC and netting to produce a provocative, punk inspired capsule.

Hogg has always championed the unconventional and this has been visible season after season in pieces and symbols which have become synonymous with her style. Her front row is always packed with a who’s who of icons who champion Hogg’s unconventional choices. From Nick and Susie Cave, to the members of the band All Saints. Lisa Snowdon to Jaime Winstone, her supporters are many and line up time and time again to see what will stomp down the runway in her latest collection.

SS24 was inspired by the return of the Goddess and entitled apocalypse. Hogg found herself troubled by thought of Sinead O’Connor’s terrible and tragic fate throughout the creative process of repurposing this current collection and as a result, made the difficult decision to use her voice as the opening to the show.

Hogg’s runway shows are always high up on my list of priorities during London Fashion Week, however this season felt new and inspired. Showcasing at a new location on a runway filled with light, in the past we’ve been used to viewing in a darker, more club-style atmosphere but this was a different experience altogether and one that allowed the viewer to immerse themselves fully in the spectacle.

Gorgeous, unpredictable and as slippy as always, can’t wait for next season.

With thanks to I.Dea, Nici Eberl and Elise K for imagery.