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Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

Categories: Fashion, Uncategorized

London Fashion Week FW17: David Ferreira Presents The Freakball

As you know Voyeurs, Fashion Month’s FW17 season has been fresh and exciting and full of new talent as well as big changes for established labels.  Mulberry took a bold step for FW17 with a collection like nothing we’ve seen in seasons gone by and David Ferreira took us to the circus with his awesome Freakball showcase at London fashion Week.

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I had a front row seat for this exclusive look at the Lisbon based designer’s first collection following his prestigious Les Etoiles Mercedes Benz win in Paris in 2016.

Inspired by the strikingly unusual and unique, Ferreira’s FW17 collection entitled The Freakball, was a rollercoaster from start to finish.  Fuschia pink, baby pink, chartreuse yellow and cobalt blue collide in a vivid, texture rich collection that’s a real treat for the senses.  Models were painted up to look like a clown / doll hybrid to great effect and they posed as they walked giving off a circus freak show vibe.  (It’s no surprise that Bjork is a fan).

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Research for the collection began at the circus and its origins, but it was in sideshows and freak shows that he found his true inspiration for his FW17 showcase.

Even though the foundation of the David Ferreira Fall / Winter collection lays in the film Freaks (1932), the book Freak Show by Roben Bogdan, The Victorian Freak Show and the work of photographer, Joel-Peter Witkin, the collection isn’t a literal inspiration of human deformities and biological rarities, instead it is a celebration of the beauty of singularity, of individuality and of rarity.

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These days we know that uniqueness is the true definition of luxury.  Exclusivity and rarity are highly covetable and we all know there’s nothing more exclusive than the singular.  Ferreira’s pieces play with the shape of a woman’s silhouette by creating a visual spectacle that blurs the lines between garment and person, using uniqueness and rarity as the driving force behind the collection, as the thing most coveted.  My standout piece from The Freakball was a pale pink fitted, duchess satin dress with a point of ruffles at the front.

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The Freakball collection is a collective celebration of individuality, of not fitting into society’s stereotype of ‘normal’.  It’s a collection that takes conventional proportion and flips it on it’s head, amping up the volume with ruffles, godês, gatherings, non conventional pattern cutting and straightened Mongolian lamb hair.

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The most exciting part of this collection for me, was the extreme texture clash;  silk, double duchess satins, silk satins, silk crepe satins, Mongolian lamb, tulle and woven metal fabric combine for absolute sensory mayhem on the Ferreira runway and the final piece changed the silhouette entirely by adding volume to the waist and nipping in the ankles, an pleasantly unexpected aesthetic and one just wacky enough to make you sit up and take notice of Ferreira.  He was awarded the Merit Award by Fashion Scout last year earning three seasons of sponsorship so there’s no doubt the best is yet to come from this exciting, bold designer.

Pixie xo

Categories: Beauty, Fashion, Models

London Fashion Week FW17: CIMONE

LONDON FASHION WEEK FW17: CIMONE

London Fashion Week has been the talk of Fashion Month so far this season and it’s partly due to reinvention.  Each season one of the fashion capitals lags behind with an underwhelming collection of shows and another stands out for it’s bold, sometimes risque, play on fashion and trend prediction.

I’m excited about LFW this season and it’s because it’s off to an awesome start.  CIMONE showed an awesome, power packed collection for FW17 at Scout and was just the start of a season of bold, brave collections that played with femininity.  The exaggerated proportions which have long been a staple of CIMONE were present and a clash of the old and new in a breathtaking runway show.  Carli Pearson, founder and creative Director of CIMONE, trained at Central St. Martins and gained experience working with Stella McCartney, Alexander Wang and most recently, Alexander McQueen before launching CIMONE.  McQueen’s influence is laced throughout this collection; from the uber strong zombie beauty look, to the hair design straight out of Plato’s Atlantis, the collection is one tinged with the best memories of the late Lee McQueen and a fitting tribute.

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I was there for what was set to be one of the talking points throughout the whole of LFW and I got to see first hand what went down at CIMONE FW17.  Let me tell you Voyeurs, it was freezing cold but pretty damn awesome.  The influence of McQueen was very apparent in some of the shapes, the collection felt nostalgic and familiar, I’m pleased to see houndstooth check as a carry forward trend for next season as it’s one of my favourite current trends.  If anything, this show season has lent itself to transition, carrying over more existing trends than ever before, introducing new, more playful ways of wearing them.

With the feminine form at the centre of this collection, elongated shoulders and sharp panniers frame the female silhouette, Pearson has a way with fabric, using it in experimental ways to create the illusion of textures one might have thought impossible.  Light, floaty silks are weighted to create restriction and heavy wools appear light and voluminous.  CIMONE is a brand rooted in its passion for craftsmanship and ability to defy the laws of convention and the expected.

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CIMONE FW17 is a collection for strong women everywhere, for backstreet rebels fighting the cause and for women who dress for themselves.  Shapes are strong and over defined with ruffles making a re-appearance for next season, bolero jackets in stiff fabric and pelmets in a variety of shapes look set to be the standout shapes which will inevitably trickle down to the highstreet – expect to see cobalt blue and red everywhere come September.

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So far this collection has been met with critical acclaim with Vogue Italia shooting a dedicated lookbook and British Vogue citing it as a season highlight.  I don’t know about you Voyeurs but I’m a huge fan of exaggerated proportions, the ability to create something extra from nothing is a wondrous thing and there’s just something about an elongated shoulder that harks back to the power silhouette of the 40’s. Blend that with the modernity of the British highstreet and you’ve got a powerful mix right there.  I’m looking forward to creating this look on the highstreet when Fall ’17 rolls around and can’t wait to see how the trends infiltrate your wardrobes.  Whether you’re conscious of it or not, these almighty runway shows dictate what you buy and when you buy it meaning everyone, whether they know it or not, is influenced by fashion and I predict that the highstreet shapes we see in Fall will be hugely influenced by the likes of CIMONE, one of my favourite shows of the season so far.  The show closed with a strong finale to Tainted Love by Marilyn Manson, models marched purposefully making a final statement before Pearson appeared briefly to wave to the crowd.

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Keep it here for more from London Fashion Week, as you know we’ve had (more than) a few website issues recently so I’m working out the kinks and catching up!  I promise you Voyeurs, you won’t be disappointed!

Pixie xo

 

Categories: Fashion

London Fashion Week FW17: VIN + OMI Present Submerge

VIN + OMI are known for their elaborate show sets during London fashion Week and as a brand famed for its couture, it draws in a pretty impressive crowd.  For FW17 the brand has partnered with the iconic Michelle Violy Harper to produce its first ever ready to wear collection.  Exciting stuff right?

With Violy as their muse, VIN + OMI have created a fresh aesthetic with new silhouettes and shapes to flatter form.  Bold new patterns and colours reflect a fantasy waterworld, using fabrics made from recycled plastic collected from the ocean alongside the highest quality silks, sustainable latex and wool.  The duo are always exploring new methods of fabric manipulation and fabrication and with Submerge for FW17, they’ve produced their most relatable and wearable collection yet.

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“The collection is for that international, creative, art loving woman, with a sprinkling of menswear in there too.  The collection has a balance of light pieces and heavier winter outerwear, pastel shades and bold colours.  Global temperatures are changing and people are jumping on planes more often.  Seasonal collections need to reflect this.”  VIN + OMI

In a fully immersive London Fashion Week show staged at The Sanderson Hotel packed with the fashion elite, celebrities, and me, models walked the boards of the Perrier-Jouet enchanted garden before taking to the sidewalk to showcase the collection. A co-ed show saw both men’s and womenswear together on the runway, topped off with VIN + OMI’s signature quirky accessories including oversized silk mittens and zip tie jewellery in uber bright colours as well as hand drawn shoes.  Oversized proportions and elongated shoulders and sleeves have been a favourite with many designers in the FW17 Showcases and these extreme shapes managed to remain flattering to the female form at VIN + OMI.

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“My obsession with creating clothes that are avant garde, and steeped in the fantasy of the awe inspiring underwater world inspired me to work closely with VIN + OMI to create a collection that both challenges and delights.  I was drawn to their work because they push boundaries and are able to explore and translate not only concepts, but also feelings.”  Michelle Violy Harper

Radio 1 DJ Jo Whitley took to the runway for the finale alongside her two sons and daughter Coco, who led the finale, saying “well they got me out of Doc Martens!” As she closed the show.

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Every Fashionista worth her Himalayan Pink Salt knows that London Fashion Week is where we look to find fresh new shapes, silhouettes and colours, it’s where most emerging trends come from and the VIN + OMI show provided a hotbed of inspiration for the high street.  Come September, expect to see chiffon and mesh daubed with watercolours and frills (already huge news for SS17) on a high street near you.

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Pixie xo

Professional images taken by Christopher Daw, all other images taken by me.

Categories: Fashion, Models, North East, Uncategorized

Love Niche FW16 Collection

Twice yearly, in line with the off-schedule fashion calendar, Newcastle based Fashion Designer Nisha Vedhara curates and prepares a multi tiered collection to present to the fashionistas of the North.

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Nisha and I have been friends for a few years now and although I’m probably biased, I speak the truth when I tell you she puts on a formidable show.  Each season Nisha partners with a local charity, suicide prevention and support charity If U Care Share was selected as the partner for The Art of Style FW 16, with a proportion of funds raised going to benefit local families affected by suicide.  Having been affected by suicide in my family, I can’t give enough props for this. ??

Nisha’s approach to her collection is three dimensional; her signature Love Niche line is actually designed and made by her, from sketch, to completion.  She scours the globe for fabrics, prints and anything else she can use in her collections with inspiration coming mainly from India and the vivid, rich colours and textures available there.

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Love Niche Paris is Nisha’s most popular collection.   Curated and bought in according to trends on the runway by Nisha with a focus on the outfit as a whole, rather than single pieces.

Her third, more affordable collection is Love Niche London.  A diffusion line selected by Nisha to make the brand accessible, but still desirable.

This year, the Love Niche Fall / Winter showcase took place at The Assembly Rooms in Newcastle and for the first time ever, featured bespoke occasion wear designed and made by Nisha for real clients.  Not only was I invited along, but I was actually asked to model in the second part of the show!  Taking on a new format, the show was split into ready to wear, worn by models and then after a short interlude, bespoke occasion wear, worn by the women the garments were created for. (i.e. Me)

The show,  called The Moonlight Season, opened with Nisha’s own Cruise collection of bespoke kaftans and resort wear.  Models walked the candlelit runway wearing striking flower crowns made by Kathryn Russell.  Miss Junior Teen Great Britain, Harriotte Lane opened the show and told me afterwards that there were just days to go before she handed the title over to her successor.  I took my seat with my photographer pal Hannah Todd, to take in the North East’s premier runway show….

First up, resort wear.  A pretty awesome collection of cool kaftans, cover ups and swimwear.  From racy fishnet throw on dresses, to soft, floaty full length waistcoats, the collection didn’t disappoint and was a lot more fresh and urban than Nisha’s usual classic offering.  With the darker theme this season and topped with flower crowns, models looked like they’d strode straight off a Lana Del Rey video shoot.

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Image Credit: Keith Fusco, KIS Studios
Image Credit: Keith Fusco, KIS Studios

Love Niche Paris gave us structured dresses, fur stoles and palazzo pants, armour for the modern day girl boss and like nothing else you’ll find on the high street.

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Love Niche London is probably the most anticipated collection purely because of its affordability and wearability.  Think runway trends re-spun for the highstreet with a classic vibe.  The collection was full of stripes and separates finished off with hats, city gloves and chain belts.

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Nisha’s high end signature line, Love Niche was a collection of high octane occasion wear for urban warrior women.  Guaranteed to create drama and turn heads, the collection garnered applause and a collective ‘ooooooooh’ from the sell out crowd.  The stand out piece?  A floor length dress coat with a nipped in waist and flared skirt worn by Miss Durham GB, Taylor Hamilton which opened and flared as she strutted the runway.  TDF ?

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Next up, my turn.  After being asked so many times about her bespoke collection, Nisha decided to enlist the help of the women she’s created one off pieces for.  For the first time ever, Nisha’s actual clients took to the runway in one off, show stopping creations designed in collaboration with each client and made by Nisha.

 

Our outfits were styled in the way we’d wear them ourselves so that the audience could see the versatility and personality in each piece.  I wore my long sleeved sequinned top with a full skirt from Coast and a black velvet cape – very gothic princess.  The bespoke luxe runway show also featured PR gurus Claire Barber and Sarah Hall and Rita Gray, a lady who’s become a friend of mine after Nisha introduced us a few years back (she calls me Carrie Bradshaw ❤️) and it added a new dimension to the show which showgoers agreed afterwards, allowed the audience to see how Nisha’s creations might be worn in ‘real life’.

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The Moonlight Season was certainly darker and a lot more edgy and relevant than previous seasons.  The collection felt like more of a ‘journey’ than it has done before.  Maybe it was the venue, or the fresher cast of models but the show seemed slicker and told the story of the collections effortlessly.  Resort wear was a highlight, it was clear from the first outfit that Nisha had upped her game and come out stronger than ever before.  With a whopping 83 outfits on show at The Midnight Sessions, I can’t wait to see how she tops this in Spring / Summer 2017.

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Image Credit: Keith Fusco, KIS Studios

If you fancy checking out the ready to wear collections, then head to Love Niche Studio, a show space that feels a world away from the busy city and the hustle of the Grainger Market beneath it.  Nisha also offers her bespoke dressmaking service from here or a personal styling service if you’re not sure where to start and she’s her own best advert, she rarely wears anything other than Love Niche and damn, can she put an outfit together.

Pixie xo

 

Categories: Fashion, Models, Uncategorized

The History of the Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra

The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is something everybody fashionista worth her Manolos looks forward each year, and with it comes the Fantasy Bra.  An exquisite piece of craftsmanship which takes all year to design, make and fit to the chosen model.

A firm fixture in the Fashion Calendar, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show wasn’t always quite so prominent.  Starting life as a trade show in the 90’s shown right before Valentine’s Day, back them the show was a very different story to the huge feathered and rhinestone studded production of today.

Every year since 1996, one lucky VS Angel is selected to showcase the multi million dollar Fantasy Bra; now the centrepiece of the show and the equivalent of NASA’s launch pad for the Angel chosen.  What you might not know is that between 1996 and 2000, the Fantasy Bra was a catalogue only item as it was deemed too expensive to be worn on the runway (none have ever been sold).

From the first ever show held at The Plaza Hotel in New York in 1995 to 2016, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is probably the best example of clever marketing that you’ll ever see in the fashion world.  From the pre-show #TrainLikeAnAngel campaign that flogs the brand’s sportswear line, to the YouTube broadcast castings and subsequent fittings, the whole thing is a well oiled machine masterminded by Ed Razek, with a little pre-show help from Russell James.  James photographed each of the Angels nude for a $250 book to accompany the show.

I was lucky enough to be invited to the 2014 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show held at Earl’s Court in London and everything, and I mean everything is a slick operation.  It’s a world created entirely for the viewer.  Everything you witness as a member of the press is created for just that purpose and the Angels are more than willing to perform.  It’s a fascinating production to be a part of and the duties of an Angel are so much more than just walking the runway, I could dedicate an entire post to the production of the show and everything that surrounds it including the media machine that’s created in the run up to show day; but this is all about the Fantasy Bra.  So sit back and enjoy every Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra that has ever graced a Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show….

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1996 – The first Fantasy Bra was worn by Claudia Schiffer and unveiled in print on the cover of the Valentine’s catalogue.  With 100 carats of diamonds it was given the title ‘The Million Dollar Miracle Bra’.

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1997 – Don’t be fooled by how understated this Fantasy Bra appears.  Costing a cool $3 million, the bra was worn by Tyra Banks and featured a 42 carat pear cut diamond at the very centre.

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1998 – The VS creative team took things up a notch with this $5 million ‘Dream Angel’ Fantasy Bra worn by Daniela Pestova.  Featuring a whopping 330 carats of pear and marquise cut diamonds, set amongst 77 carats of marquise cut rubies and mouldable platinum.

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1999 – The year that the Fantasy Bra became a ‘costume’ and people sat up and took notice.  Very visibly different to anything else in the catalogue, the ‘Millennium Bra’ was worn by Heidi Klum and with over 4000 diamonds and sapphires, the price tag was a cool $10 million.

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2000 – This $15 million ‘Red Hot’ Fantasy Bra set a Guiness World Record for Most Expensive Piece of Lingerie (until 2006).  Encrusted with over 300 Thai Rubies the Red Hot Fantasy Bra, worn by Gisele, gave Victoria’s Secret the idea to start including the Fantasy Bra in the annual show.

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2001 – Heidi Klum was the first Angel to walk the runway in a Fantasy Bra.  The ‘Heavenly Star’ demi bra was made up of pink sapphires with a 90 carat emerald cut diamond in the centre.  At $12.5 million you’d think they could have made one to fit…

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2002 – The ‘Star of Victoria’ Fantasy Bra was created to give the look of an English country rose garden, studded with rubies and emeralds galore, the bra cost a whopping $10 million and was worn by rising star (at the time) Karolina Kurkova.

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2003 – Wearing her third fantasy Bra, Heidi Klum took to the runway in the (slightly better fitting) ‘Very Sexy’ Fantasy Bra costing $11 million and featuring the second largest diamond in the world at 70 carats.

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2004 – The £10 million ‘Heavenly 70’ Fantasy Bra was worn by Tyra Banks and was for print only as the off schedule Angel’s Across America show took place that year.  Featuring  diamonds set in white gold with an awesome 70 carat pear cut diamond at its centre.

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2005 – Gisele took on the ‘Sexy Splendour’ Fantasy Bra and this show really embraced themes, shaping the show as we know it now, with a 101 fancy-cut swing diamond, the bra was valued at $12.5 million.

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2006 – Now on to her second Fantasy Bra, Karolina Kurkova wore the $6.5 million ‘Hearts On Fire’ Fantasy bra featuring over 2000 single diamonds and a huge 10 carat stone as the centrepiece.

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2007 – The ‘Holiday’ Fantasy Bra was worn by Selita Ebanks and was the first year that the costume featured a garter, barrette & cuff as part of the ensemble.  Encrusted in diamonds, yellow sapphires, rubies and emeralds, the bra was the first to embrace the Holiday season.

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2008 – Starting to look familiar Voyeurs? Introducing Adriana Lima as the Angel she was meant to be.  Wearing the $5 million ‘Black Diamond’ Fantasy bra, Lima took centre stage for the first time and the world sat up and took notice.  With over 1500 carats in this fantasy Bra, this shaped the show as we know it.

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2009 – The $3 million ‘Harlequin’ Fantasy Bra was worn by Marisa Miller and was made up of 2355 diamonds with a 16-carat heart shaped diamond pendant centrepiece.

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2010 – The ‘Bombshell’ Fantasy Bra was Adriana Lima’s second outing wearing the coveted showstopper.  With 60 carats of white diamonds as well as blue topaz and sapphires, the bra was valued at $2 million and cemented Lima at the top of her game.

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2011 – The ‘Fantasy Treasure’ Bra was worn by Miranda Kerr and incorporated Victoria’s Secret’s famous ‘wings’ or in this case, a piece fashioned to resemble an oyster shell.  with 3379 stones including yellow and colourless diamonds to the tune of of 142 carats, citrines, pearls and aquamarines, the bra was valued at $2.5 million and was finished with a pearl centrepiece.

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2012 – Alessandra Ambrosio wore the $2.5 million ‘Floral Fantasy’ Bra, moving towards the full VSFS costume we’re used to seeing today the style featured floral wings and panniers secured with a diamond chain belt, and over 5000 gems.  Amethysts, rubies, sapphires, tsavorites and pink, yellow and white diamonds made up the intricate floral design and just like Adriana Lima, Ambrosio became a household name.

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2013 – The ‘Royal’ Fantasy Bra was a sight to behold, worn by Candice Swanepoel, the bra and belt topped out at $10 million and featured over 4200 gem stones including diamonds, rubies and yellow sapphires with a 52 carat pear shaped ruby swinging from the centre.  Hand set in 18 karat gold, the ‘Royal’ saw the Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra elevated to the Big Leagues.

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2014 – For the first time ever, Victoria’s Secret made two Fantasy Bras for the UK show named the ‘Dream Angels’ fantasy bras.  Worn by Adriana Lima and Alessandra Ambrosio, it was widely speculated that the girls were set to retire after the London show and that this would be their parting gift – this was not the case.  valued at $2 million each, the ensembles were dripping in 16000 blue sapphires, diamonds and rubies set in 18 karat gold.  I was lucky enough to be at this show and got within touching distance of both of these backstage!

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2015 – The modestly priced $2 million ‘Firework’ Fantasy bra was worn by Lily Aldridge and is one of the tamest to be seen in recent years.  It left fans of the VS Fashion Show underwhelmed and was criticised on social media.  Made up of white diamonds, blue topaz, yellow sapphires and pink quartz and set in 18 karat gold, the wings and matching panniers were created to replicate the effect of fireworks on July 4th.

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2016 – This year marks the 20th anniversary of the VS Fantasy Bra and the brand wanted to bring something new.  After suffering a 35% drop in ratings in 2015 which has been hurtful to the brand, 25 year old Jasmine Tookes was selected to wear the ‘Bright Night’ Fantasy bra.  Made up of 9000 gems and 27000 Swarovski crystals set in 18 karat gold and valued at $3 million, the bra is a step away from the Fantasy Bra’s shown in recent years – a conscious decision for the brand.  Unretouched pictures of Tookes’ Fantasy Bra shoot were also leaked online – rumoured to be a ploy by the brand itself.

“The energy is going to be amazing in Paris, everyone is so excited—it’s going to be one of the best VS shows yet!”  Jasmine Tookes, VS Angel

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2017 – The Champagne Nights Fantasy Bra was designed exclusively for Victoria’s Secret by Mouawad Jewellery.  Brazilian Angel Lais Ribeiro was selected to wear the $2 million Fantasy Bra which took almost 350 hours to craft using just under 600 gem stones including yellow sapphires, blue topaz and diamonds, all set in 18 karat gold on a Dream Angel Demi Bra

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Elsa Hosk Victorias Secret Dream Angels Fantasy Bra 2018 Full Body Shot
Elsa Hosk Victorias Secret Dream Angels Fantasy Bra 2018 Promo Shot of bralette

2018 – The Dream Angels Fantasy Bra took over 930 hours to make and has been set in sterling silver to showcase over 21,000 Swarovski created diamonds, a first for a Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra.  The bralette and matching Swarovski by Cristopher Kane body chain was designed for Victoria’s Secret Angel Elsa Hosk and has been valued at a cool $1 million.  The centre piece alone weighs more than 71 carats.

So there you have it Voyeurs, your definitive guide to the Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra.  All that’s left now is for you to sit tight and wait for the next VS Fashion Show to air…..

Pixie xo

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