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Fashion Voyeur

People will stare, make it worth their while.

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NE1’s Fashion Futures presents: FASHION

Northumbria University is one of the leading educational establishments for Fashion Design outside of London and 2015 marks the Fashion departments 60th anniversary.  That’s right, they’ve been churning out successful Fashion Designers and Promoters for 60 years.  Because of this, in place of the usual Newcastle Fashion Week fixture, NE1 have planned an event dubbed Fashion Futures to showcase the work of the current crop of graduates from the university.

Northumbria University’s BA (Hons) fashion programme is renowned for the calibre of its business-ready and media-savvy graduates, with 97% of students in full time employment within six months of graduating, some of whom are now big names in the world of fashion.

I was invited along to FASHION, a Textile Collections Exhibition and runway show at the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art;  The runway show marks the beginning of the 2015 graduate presentation, the collections included have been in development for months prior.  Each student is showing a small collection of either three of five looks in either Menswear or Womenswear, and other textile work is on static display for the duration of the Fashion Futures event.  I wanted to make an impression so I threw on some Topshop Unique leather culottes with a black & Other Stories tank and a fringed suede jacket.

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A colossal 57 students / Designers from Northumbria University’s past and present showcased their collections at FASHION, each using professional models and their own chosen soundtrack.  From conceptual and minimalistic to wacky and fun, FASHION has it all.  One thing that shines through during the runway show is the individuality of each student, there’s nothing generic about this fashion presentation, each designer has brought their own personality to their collection, it’s all very diverse and very exciting.

The show opens with Sophie Dring, who shows a clean cut, Victoria Beckham inspired collection of five pieces.  It’s contemporary but very wearable and I’m instantly scribbling her name in my pad as someone to watch. We’re off to a good start….

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The whole show is a slick and well put together affair, far superior to what we’ve seen in previous years from Newcastle Fashion Week, (kudos to NE1) and the auditorium set up gives the entire audience the chance to get a great view of each collection.

It’s quickly apparent that we have a huge spectrum of talent in the North East, considering that some of these collections have gone from conception to completion by undergraduate students, it’s amazing to see how much these students have achieved in that short time, and how each Designer has managed to portray a running theme through each piece comprising their mini collection.  There is some real standout design talent amongst the running order, for example Charlotte Byrne, showing a collection which wouldn’t look out of place in an alexander Wang runway show, models were sent down the runway in a hybrid of ski goggles and welder masks.

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Fei Fei Chen showed a collection with more than a nod to the military trend and with a touch of hunter chic thrown in for good measure, the craftsmanship in this collection is exquisite.

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It’s clear that each student has paid attention to fashion trends and manufacturing techniques past and present, and it’s easy to see where they pick up their influence.  During their time at University, they’re deciding what kind of Designer they want to be and by the time they’ve created their final collections, whether they’ve decided or not, it’s evident that each falls into a distinct category.  Hannah Chant for example shows a collection not dissimilar to the Missoni collections of the early 00’s, 70’s inspired and bohemian but with a modern twist.  Jessica Bretherton shows real talent, showing a collection similar in style to Ralph Lauren, easy relaxed tailoring with an American casual vibe.  Yee Ting Chan sent models down the runway wearing surgeons masks in a collection reminiscent of early Alexander McQueen, there was something raw and exciting about this collection.

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Eleanor Rowlands told a story through her post apocalyptic collection, she’s surely one to watch as there were whisperings around the runway when her models glided on to the runway.

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Jessica Bailey showed a fun Under the Sea themed collection with underwater scenes, pearls and pompoms, very Henry Holland or Jeremy Scott.  She’s someone I could imagine dressing stars such as Katy Perry and Miley Cyrus in a few years.  Olivia Pink’s collection had a hint of 60’s styling with round pocket detailing, think Raoul, but with added body armour.  Both Billie Toole and Emma Cummings’ showed retro Amish style collections, Cummings showcased skirts with coloured patterns giving the effect of a deep box pleat.

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In stark contrast, Rosie Hargreaves showed soft tailoring in pastel colours whilst Lucy Doyle presented an uber chic monochrome collection.  By far the most wearable and commercial collection to be presented at the event came from Julia Barstow who exhibited a high street ready five piece collection of clean lines and a simple yet effective colour pallete of blue, white and orange.

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With 57 Designers showing at FASHION, it would be too difficult to go through each one individually, suffice to say that there’s a diverse mix of incredible talent at Northumbria University, with each designer bringing something different to the market.  From urban sportswear to vintage inspired tailoring, there’s something here for every Fashion Voyeur.  Undoubtedly there are some students here who will go on to achieve great things in the fashion world, and judging by some of the work on display this evening, there are a definite select few who have the talent and individuality to go on to create and run their own successful labels.

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From this runway show, twenty-five students will be selected to show their collections as part of the industry runway show at Graduate Fashion Week in London on may 31st.  The design portfolios of these students will be available for viewing on the Graduate Fashion Week stand from May 30th – June 2nd before returning to Newcastle to be shown as part of the Degree Show REVEAL at Northumbria University’s City Campus from June 16th – 27th.

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If you love fashion, I’d strongly recommend you visit the University Campus to view the collections, after all, the next big thing could be amongst that crop of students, right here in Newcastle….

Pixie x

For more information on the Fashion programme at Northumbria University, please click here.

The collections shown at FASHION can be viewed below:

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Holly Fulton SS15 London Fashion Week

This is my first post on the new domain and it’s about one of my favourite subjects: London Fashion Week!  I was lucky enough to be invited to Fashion Week this year by fashion and beauty PR Agency Media Hubb and attended the SS15 show of one of my favourite British designers, Holly Fulton.

I was invited backstage before the show to really get an idea of the thought behind the show and was very interested to hear that Holly thinks of her show as a view into her world.  This is far more than a twenty minute runway show, this is an experience, and it begins when the models are cast.  Holly wanted the models skin to almost drip with luminescence and health and in order to achieve this models were gifted with beauty devices from leading home beauty device brand; Silk’n.  These included the Glide hair removal, Silhouette contouring and Sonic Clean Plus devices, all of which contributed to that flawless glow the models had on the runway.

“Fashion and beauty have the same aspiration, to make women look and feel beautiful” says Holly, “My SS15 collection is set off by illuminating skin which is smooth and soft to the touch, thanks to Silk’n revolutionary products”

models hair was kept simple in low slung ponytails with added weaves for extra length, I spoke to Hair Stylists Loui Ferri and Mags about the look and they said that it was all about a sleek look so that the focus would be on the models “glow”

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Holly hails from Edinburgh and is known for her striking graphic prints.  Her SS15 runway show theme was alluded to with the printed show invite and the show itself did not disappoint.  Nestled in the Courtyard showspace at London Fashion Week hub, Somerset House, a white reflective runway was concealed by yellow plastic as we took our seats.

The FROW was a hotbed for fashion editors, bloggers, celebrities and fashion lovers all eager for a first look at the collection dubbed “an ode to sun-worship, folk art and free expression”

The creations were decorated in folkloric magic but grounded in the precision of Modernism.  True to form, Holly sent models cascading down the runway in her signature monochrome panelled with crystal and laser cut components and bonded patent strapping.

Models wore sunglasses from Holly’s own collection; Holly Fulton for Cutler and Gross and powered down the runway to the beats of Jonjo Jury.

Holly Fulton for Cutler & Gross
Holly Fulton for Cutler & Gross

I swear my heart skipped a beat when the graphic printed silk coat appeared on the runway and my eyes seemed to naturally filter out everything else for a moment, a thing of rare beauty and craftsmanship, and something that screams Holly Fulton to anyone within shouting distance.

After a gorgeous finale with colours so sharp they looked like they had been processed with a Chrome filter, Holly made a brief appearance on the runway stopping only to wave to the crowd before disappearing again.  One thing is for sure though, the Great British High-street will be awash with tributes to this collection come February 2015 and we’ll all be back in graphic print with perspex detailing, strapping and accessories.

Pixie x

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Holly Fulton SS15
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Holly Fulton SS15 Details
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Holly Fulton for Cutler & Gross
Holly Fulton for Cutler & Gross
Holly Fulton SS15
Holly Fulton SS15
THAT printed jacket
THAT printed jacket
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Pixie Tenenbaum 2024

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People will stare, make it worth their while

Pixie Tenenbaum

FASHION VOYEUR

Freelance Fashion and Beauty Writer
Currently taking review slots
Hire Me: pixie.tenenbaum@gmail.com

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