Fashion Voyeur

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Categories: Fashion

PRITCH London Divine Beings London Fashion Week

With London Fashion Week about to kick off for another season there are always a few pre-season openers that warm up show season nicely.  We all know that New York Fashion Week isn’t what it used to be and with many of us no longer even optioning it as freelancers since the division of Fashion Month and instead opting for season openers like these instead, which give us an insight into Fashion Week on our home turf ahead of time.

Earlier this week PRITCH London gave us just that.  The invite said simply ‘Divine Beings’ with a nod to Greek mythology in its illustration and its evening slot and dreamy church location hinted its opulence.

Pixie tenenbaum holds up the invite to the PRITCH London SS20 runway show pre-London Fashion Week in September 2019

PRITCH London is a brand known for its non-conformist luxury and distinctive use of sustainable leather, something that they’ve worked hard to source.  With Divine Beings, PRITCH London aim to elevate the wearer to divine, almost god-like status – translating the power of ancient Greek mythology through striking silhouettes completely unexpected and seemingly impossible in a fabric as unyielding as leather.

The story behind this vibrant collection comes from designer Federica Braghieri’s passion and desire to illuminate the more obscure Greek goddesses who are more often historically overlooked, or misrepresented, in favour of more serene, quieter beings.

“Hecate, the three headed goddess of magic and the night, known for her ability to see past, present and future, is depicted more rarely than the gentler Aphrodite or Athena, but for us this divine being represents the multifarious expression of the collection.”

Historically depicted carrying flaming torches through treacherous night journeys, the colour palette of the Divine Beings collection reflects the mysterious tales of the goddess Hecate.   Red, yellow and copper intertwine with black and grey through various leather weaving and pleating techniques developed by Madara Rozensteina to create an almost water like texture, the garments themselves flow softly on the runway and it’s only on close inspection that they appear heavy as leather is.

There’s a cute little use of fuzzy felt type faux fur early in the show (London Fashion Week has been fully fur free for a few years now), which gives a nod to the season we’re actually in as well as some Spring Summer 20 forecasting which is real nice – perhaps a glance into the future of a new type of co-ed show?

Either way, I’m a sucker for leather and PRITCH London definitely know how to work with it.  From those tight little box pleats that don’t cram in extra weight – something that’s hard to achieve with a heavy fabric, right through to those fit and flare body harnessed blazers; suffice to say, PRITCH London delivers eloquence whilst challenging the fashion status quo.  Divine Beings is a real celebration of non-conformist skill and craftsmanship that deserves to be appreciated up close.

Pixie

Categories: Fashion, Models, Uncategorized

Ones To Watch SS18 at London Fashion Week

After a rough start to day one of London Fashion Week, I hit the ground running, albeit a few steps behind, with the multi-designer Ones To Watch show for SS18.  The Ones To Watch show seeks to raise the profile of emerging talent globally and the rostered designers are selected from a long list of emerging designers by a panel of industry experts.  It’s a must see show every season and if you’re an LFW regular, then you can guarantee that you’ll see these names cropping up further down the line.  They’re selected on a number of criteria and the resulting showcase is always a very interesting show.

“THE ONES TO WATCH SHOW IS THE PERFECT LAUNCH PAD FOR TALENTED NEW DESIGNERS. THIS SEASON’S FOUR DESIGNERS PRESENT COMPLETELY DIFFERENT VISIONS OF THE FUTURE OF FASHION. THIS IS THE SUCCESS OF ONES TO WATCH AND WHY IT IS SO POPULAR.”  MARTYN ROBERTS, FASHION SCOUT

The Ones To Watch show for the LFW SS18 season featured four strong designers, each with a different focus and style, I was already flustered on arrival after having to hot foot it from Kings Cross but a coffee and a chat with the lovely Donna Air fixed all of that and set me up for a pretty decent show.

NEO DESIGN

With a palette of black, black and even more black, this almost gender neutral collection cast a stark contrast against the all white show space.  The brand was born out of a graduate project and focusses on the manufacture of the garments as much as the appearance of the final product.  This SS18 collection connected the past with the future with a range made for modern warriors.  Leather, quilting and rope combined in the deepest shades of noir to give an untouchable aesthetic making the wearer a force to be reckoned with.  A collection designed to give the illusion of power and one that certainly succeeds.

 JI WON CHOI

Ji Won Choi’s collection is one of vibrant colour with an underlying message.  The collection, entitled Excessivism, highlights the waste in our closets today.  Swathes of fabric cover the models bodies with exaggerated graphic lines, cuts and strapping.  Ji Won Choi is a designer defying the traditional fashion calendar by showing a seasonless collection, seeking to shift the focus to sustainability over fast fashion.

Bright, playful and clever with elements of wearability.  The message to society is strong with this one…

TRIINU PUNGITS

Pungits is an experienced designer with 13 years of design experience under her sequinned belt.  Normally I’m a fan of her work, a champion of self expression and freedom, her prints are to die for.  This latest collection for me was underwhelming.  Yes, sure there was the whole novelty foam hands thing but it wasn’t consistent enough throughout the collection to be something to sit up and take notice of and felt like it had been added for drama.

I loved the geometric lines, printed leotards and added red heart feature but the whole thing felt a little disjointed for me, especially after the success of SS17 and a meaningful and satisfying collection.  Interesting sure, but more filler than killer for me I’m afraid.  Soz Pungits.

STARSICA

Talk about going out on a high, Starsica SS18 rocked my world and gave Day 1 of LFW an injection of youth and vibrance with that all important wearability factor.  Taking it’s name from the term Star Seeker, depicting a wise man forecasting the movement of the stars and therefore predicting the future, Starsica represents the concept of ‘Everyday luxury wear with the anxiety of modern society’ and it gets it right on point.

Simple shapes and cut out detailing at pivot points gave a youthful edge to the collection and rolled head torches gave a nod to the explorer vibe hinted at in the brand name.  I loved this collection and there’s a space in my wardrobe for that gorgeous human heart sweater and Victoriana ruffle dress.  Despite being a playful collection, Starsica never loses its elegance and stays just the right side of wearable.  Definitely One to Watch.

Pixie xo

Categories: Beauty, Fashion, North East, Uncategorized

Intu Fashion SS17 at Intu Metrocentre

With Bank Holiday weekend approaching, Intu Metrocentre is hosting four days jam packed with fashion shows kicking off today.

These fun shows will highlight  the latest trends, how to wear them and most importantly, where to find them.  With everything available to buy in the Metrocentre and a handy discount leaflet available from Customer Service desks, you’ll have that Summer wardrobe freshened up in the shake of a pineapple.

I was invited along to the VIP preview night for a sneaky peak at the shows you’ll be able to check out over the next four days and with streetwear, occasionwear, formal wear and even beach wear, Intu Metrocentre have you covered.  I rocked up in an A-line leather skirt from M&S (a Fashion Editor staple) and a Led Zeppelin tee with messy brows and even messier hair.

We sipped cocktails from TGI Fridays, ate chicken salsa from Bar Burrito and even played in a ball pool as we chilled in the Style Garden amongst the palm trees and flamingos before taking our seats on the frow for a fashion extravaganza.

With fresh Spring looks from Topshop, Coast, House of Fraser and many more, there’s something for every budget in the shows which take place in Town Square, right outside House of Fraser at regular intervals throughout the four days.  My absolute favourite look was a baby pink overlay skirt from Coast paired with a shimmer body top – if it looks familiar Voyeurs, it’s because I have that very same outfit and it’s awesome.  One of the real highlights of the show was actually Primark – with fast fashion for guys and girls of all ages, and some real trend led items, it was a surprising winner.

It’s nice to see Intu Metrocentre bringing back the runway show format to unveil the transitional collections.  They’ve really upped their game too, there’s none of the cheesy dancing that you often get with shopping mall fashion shows, this is slick and current and the outfits are styled to reflect a wide demographic.  So when I say there’s something for everyone, I really mean it.  If you’ve got a keen eye, you might just spot the current Miss Newcastle England, and Miss Newcastle England 2015 on the runway representing the North East too!

With hair and makeup services provided by SHOW Beauty and MAC at House of Fraser, they’ve gone all out to make this weekend a real treat for shoppers visiting Intu Metrocentre and you’ll find that there are a variety of offers and competitions on too in the mall.  So if you’re treating yourself, or someone else, be sure to swing by the show first to find out how you could win yourself some Mulberry swag, courtesy of House of Fraser.

One other little thing to sweeten the deal Voyeurs; you know all about my love of Decleor products and treatments and this Thursday to Saturday, House of Fraser are exclusively offering 20% off ALL Decleor product on counter.  If you’re familiar with the brand, you’ll know that this very rarely happens so get in, and stock up!

If you’re at Intu Metrocentre this Bank Holiday weekend and fancy checking it out, the Intu SS17 fashion shows will be held every day Thursday 27 – Sunday 30 April 2017 and you might just leave with a little vacation inspo…..

Pixie xo

Fashion shows will be shown at regular intervals throughout each day, time table shown below.

Thursday 27 April: 12pm, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm

​Friday 28 April: 12pm, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm

​Saturday 29 April: 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm

​Sunday 30 April: 11.30am, 1.30pm, 3.30pm

Categories: Fashion, North East, Uncategorized

Newcastle High School Fashion & Textiles Show 2017

There’s nothing I love more than spotting emerging design talent, particularly when it’s from the North East.  We’ve got some pretty impressive fashion alumni from Northumbria University making waves in the fashion industry right now but this time, I’m talking about a much younger set of students; the Textile students of Newcastle High School for Girls.

Students from the school in Jesmond are responsible for not only designing and manufacturing the pieces which feature in the Textiles department’s annual fashion show, they’re also charged with producing and staging the show themselves.  Everything from the music, lighting and choreography is masterminded by students from years 9 to 13 and it’s no easy task given the sheer volume of students taking the course.

“We are very proud of the creative talent we have here at Newcastle High and the Fashion and Textiles show is evidence of this. So much hard work and dedication goes into creating these collections and the girls put their hearts and souls into the whole creative process from design, production, choreography and staging.”  Alison Goldie, Head of Creative Arts, Newcastle High School for Girls

I was invited along to the evening show earlier this month and took my seat on the Frow in anticipation for what lay ahead….

In a show that opened with pieces inspired by the art of Piet Mondrian and the famous Mondrian dress by Yves Saint Laurent, year 9 students each showcased one sheath dress painted to reflect the style of the famous painter.  With dance based choreography, students modelled their own pieces before exiting the stage to applause.

The show continued with all four year 9 classes taking a segment of the show to interpret their theme, the punk theme stood out with it’s anarchic choreography and soundtrack.

The two year 11 pupils who showed showcase collections showed how the design skill matures and progresses as students move up to GCSE level at Newcastle High School for Girls.  Emilia Cooke produced a three piece capsule collection inspired by packaging and doilies which showcased her eye for design, and her innovative use of raw materials To translate household items into inspired fashion pieces.  Bodices fashioned out of clingfilm and sellotape and trains made from corrugated cardboard stood out in the collection.

“I have a real passion for textiles and hope to study it at A Level and beyond. In Year 9 when I created my first piece I came into the art studio every break, lunchtime and after school to get it finished. Last night I was in the studio until about 5.30pm with my younger sister who I’ve roped in to help me create all the origami flowers I’ll need. It was actually my 13-year-old sister, Francesca who first showed me how to make the flowers! It takes about one hour to create 20 flowers and I need hundreds! I also used three rolls of Sellotape to produce one of the corsets.”  Emilia Cooke, Year 11.

Lucy Baxter went for a softer, more fabric oriented approach in her capsule collection inspired by cabbages.  Soft, floaty pieces accented with screen printed purples and greens showcased her talent for taking the mundane and elevating it to something beautiful, striking and wearable.

“We are very fortunate to have an exceptionally well supported department equipped with unrivalled facilities including laser, screen and 3D printing which are all at the girls’ disposal when they are producing their collections. We are also uniquely placed to be able to offer three different arts based A Levels, Textiles, Fine Art and Graphics which provides tremendous breadth of learning and great creative cross overs for those studying one or more arts based A Levels.”  Alison Goldie, Head of Creative Arts, Newcastle High School for Girls.

Megan Fletcher, aged 17, closed the show with her four piece collection entitled Modern Renaissance featuring a glow in the dark exotic skeletons with full skirt  and shakespearean ruffles.  Fletcher has been offered one of just 25 places on the exclusive BA Hons Fashion Atelier degree course at University College of Arts, UCA in Rochester, the only course of its kind in the UK.

Inspired by Tim Burton movies and the current political climate, Fletcher’s collection focussed on the supernatural using 3D printing and thermo-chromic paint in a dramatic climax.

My favourite collection, entitled The Human Condition by student Hope Turnbull, featured a thought provoking five piece collection inspired by mental health issues and depression.  With clean lines accented by straitjacket-like features and buckles, simple pieces were printed to appear like pill packets emblazoned with quotes from patients struggling with mental ill health and anxiety.

Turnbull’s collection is heavily influenced by Agnes Richter, a 19th century German seamstress detained as a patient in an insane asylum.  Richter densely embroidered her straight jackets with words charting her thoughts and feelings at the time and Turnbull’s collection captures the poignancy of this beautifully.

After the show I learned that Turnbull wasn’t a Textiles student throughout her educational career at Newcastle High School for Girls and only opted to study the subject at year 12. With plans to go on to study Fine Art at University (she’s hoping for Central St Martins or University of the Arts London) I’m tipping this young designer as one to watch, my absolute favourite from the evening, I’m predicting big things for Hope Turnbull.

After watching the show, produced entirely by the students involved, I’ll be watching to see the next steps of some of the older students as they graduate high school and seek further education, it’s rare for talent to present so early and so uniquely in high school students but it looks a super though we have a couple of real gems right here in Newcastle

Pixie xo

Categories: Fashion

London Fashion Week FW17: N&S GAIA presents The Hybrid

SS17 has given fashion lovers more trends, sub trends and micro trends than we can shake a stick at, each of them totally wearable and lustworthy. (I’m looking at you gingham).  If I’m honest, SS17 is when Fashion Month got its mojo back (with the exception of NYFW which was a soaking wet, drowning squib).  FW17 had a tough act to follow and early shows out of the gate at NYFW showed promise.  Now Voyeurs if you don’t know, pay attention: LFW is the younger, fresher, funkier sister of NYFW, the one that everyone loves and wants to cheat with, so as all eyes turned to the British fashion capital we expected great and wonderful things….

The early days of every capital’s Fashion Week are designated for the relatively unknown, new or emerging design talent and these are often some of the best shows you’ll see.  With these showcases and presentations there’s zero expectation, often because we haven’t seen seasons previous or the label hasn’t quite established its niche.  Enter N&S GAIA, a rising star in Indian fashion and originating from New Delhi, the label has contributed to the successful rebirth and modernisation of Dakmanda – a hand-woven embroidery technique of the Garo tribe in North East India.  The brand is also a major proponent of the exploration of upcycling and use of sustainable fabrics. Dedicated to its pillars, the ‘N’ and ‘S’ in N&S GAIA standing for Nature and Sustainability.

Founded by designer, Sidharth Sinha in 2013, the brand made its second LFW runway appearance at Fashion Scout this show season.  I hotfooted it over to the Freemason’s Hall wearing the most perfect vintage skirt and an incredibly rude tee to bring you the lowdown on this relatively undiscovered label.

Following on from the SS17 collection, which was shown in both London and Paris, and given a coveted Vogue Online collections report, N&S GAIA carries forward its signature style of colourful flowing silks punctuated by wide-legs, exaggerated ruffles, sweeping hems, bold, painterly appliqué and tapestry embroidery.

Exploring a deep, dark facet of meta-modernism, the FW17 collection, entitled The Hybrid, is centred on nature photography and existential transformation.  Models walked the runway wearing simplistic pieces which grew bolder as the show progressed, starting relatively tame and occasionally rising above the parapet with something more dramatic.  Soft, blurred lines adorned with tapestry embroidery and shapes which reflect the brand’s Indian heritage were the order of the day set in a muted colour palette, sometimes accented with a pop of metallic.

Shapes were fluid with constructed drapes offset by elements like wide flares, pleating and voluminous sleeves.  Surfaces including the handwoven details of the Dakmanda mix with metallic embroidery echoing the hybrid forms in nature.

Nature starts with almost nothing, just a molecule; where humanity plays the role of the transformation.

A pioneer of sustainability in Indian fashion, N&S GAIA aims to use a balance of hand-woven textiles blended with mill-woven fabric and natural dyes in an effort to push the brand to the forefront of the fashion industry’s natural progression.  Textile and craft are at the core of N&S GAIA and that’s evident in both the craftsmanship and the attention to detail in the embellishment.

Yes, it’s tame compared to some of the stalwarts of Fashion Month but it’s not just about the drama.  This collection is wearable, relatable and ultimately, sustainable.  This is a brand with a vision and some sense of direction, there are consistencies throughout the collection and that’s great news for a relatively new label.  Measurable progression is key in the fashion industry and time is a key ingredient for progression.  Fashion Scout is known for nurturing design talent so I’m interested to see how the RTW collection is received following show season.

I’ll be back for more in September for SS18 and N&S GAIA’s next power move…

Pixie xo

Follow @pixietenenbaum