London Fashion Week Archives - Page 2 of 11

JU-NNA SS24

On the surface JU-NNA seems like a relatively new kid on the block in fashion. Having been founded in 2019 by Jun Nakamura, the label has made huge strides in four short years. From a jaw dropping graduate collection showcasing techniques that are almost never seen in the fashion industry today, JU-NNA has gone on to make this a signature in the manufacturing process.

18th September 2023, 31 New Inn Yard, London. FS – JU-UNA presents their designs on the catwalk as part of London Fashion Week. © Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

Fusing modern, contemporary design, with traditional Japanese techniques including Shibori, the resulting collection is a beautiful nod to heritage processes which require skill and attention to detail, as well as practice in order to prevent the skill set from dying out with the artisans.

18th September 2023, 31 New Inn Yard, London. FS – JU-UNA presents their designs on the catwalk as part of London Fashion Week. © Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

JU-NNA SS24 is a visual spectacle, best viewed in HD in order to truly appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into creating this beautiful folding effect.

With thanks to Harriett at Black, and Chris Yates (runway photographer) for imagery.

Categories: The Fashion Closet

De fichier Episode 3

De fichier held it’s episode 3 reveal this fashion week season as a salon Privè presentation showcase allowing attendees to get up close and personal with the collection and really appreciate the fusing of technology with fashion design.

The family led fashion label produces beautiful womenswear in small quantities using only the most beautiful and often unexpected fabrics. The dual identity of uniform has been the main inspiration for episode 3, how on the one hand uniform can identify and classify social status and embody the leadership ruling class in order to suppress individuality, whilst on the other hand a uniform identifies group members and ensures the establishment of a unified social order highlighting an individual’s submission to social order and power. The duality is finite and contradictory at the same time, and de fichier has sought to represent this in this forthcoming collection.

The collection is as dramatic as it is delicate; with sharp elongated shoulders juxtaposed with soft draping, that duality is ever present. Highlights include a dress moulded from leather to produce a cast of the female form made in as few pieces as possible, viewed from afar it appears like linen or silk but up close, the harshness is visible for what it is.

Another piece features tiny 3d printed pieces which are taken from scores of video game code and stitched on to a jewelled bodice. Again when viewed from afar these appear like jewels, however up close, that blend of craftsmanship with technological programming is evident.

The salon privè format gives us the chance to appreciate the thought process behind a collection like this, where designers and seamstresses work alongside coders and programmers to produce a collection of future type clothing that has absolutely earned its place in the fashion industry

Categories: The Fashion Closet

Olivia Rubin’s 80’s Inspired Rainbow for FW20

On a cold wet February day in London the fashion elite gathered for Olivia Rubin’s rainbow coloured presentation and for twenty minutes we completely forgot about the weather and focussed completely on animal print hearts, polka dots and the swishing of silky tiers as they sashayed past us up the makeshift runway.

Rubin is known for her use of colour. She’s become synonymous with it, whether it’s pastels, prints, primary colours or checks, all of the above work themselves seamlessly into one collection because colour is the common denominator. Like RIXO, Olivia Rubin is a “sunny” designer, one that has the feel good factor, you know that when you slip on an Olivia Rubin dress, your mood will lift, and trust me, it really does.

A model wears pink on the runway at the Olivia Rubin Fall Winter presentation at london Fashion Week

A model wears polka dots on the runway at the Olivia Rubin Fall Winter presentation at london Fashion Week

A model wears pink silk tiers on the runway at the Olivia Rubin Fall Winter presentation at london Fashion Week

Her Fall Winter collection for 2020 is no exception – filled with sequins so tiny they’re almost fluid, tye dye ombré that was made for lazy vacation evenings and 80’s inspired silhouettes that look achingly cool when complimented with colour blocked opaque tights and wide sash belts; a look I’ll definitely be wearing next season and undoubtedly beyond.

A model wears 80's style polka dots on the runway at the Olivia Rubin Fall Winter presentation at london Fashion Week

A model wears wide necked fluid sequined tiers on the runway at the Olivia Rubin Fall Winter presntation at london Fashion Week

A model wears sequined tiers on the runway at the Olivia Rubin Fall Winter presntation at london Fashion Week

The most easily wearable and relatable look though is seen in Rubin’s signature rainbow colours draped effortlessly through tiers of fabric in either mini, midi or maxi dresses made from swathes of silk and sequins. With wide boat style necks these gorgeous swishy frocks are sure to keep your spirits high when temperatures begin to drop in September, and with her high end high street price point, they’re pretty affordable for us mere mortals too.

Pixie

Categories: The Fashion Closet

PRITCH London Divine Beings London Fashion Week

With London Fashion Week about to kick off for another season there are always a few pre-season openers that warm up show season nicely. We all know that New York Fashion Week isn’t what it used to be and with many of us no longer even optioning it as freelancers since the division of Fashion Month and instead opting for season openers like these instead, which give us an insight into Fashion Week on our home turf ahead of time.

Earlier this week PRITCH London gave us just that. The invite said simply ‘Divine Beings’ with a nod to Greek mythology in its illustration and its evening slot and dreamy church location hinted its opulence.

PRITCH London is a brand known for its non-conformist luxury and distinctive use of sustainable leather, something that they’ve worked hard to source. With Divine Beings, PRITCH London aim to elevate the wearer to divine, almost god-like status – translating the power of ancient Greek mythology through striking silhouettes completely unexpected and seemingly impossible in a fabric as unyielding as leather.

A model on the runway at the PRITCH London Divine Beings Runway Show in London

The story behind this vibrant collection comes from designer Federica Braghieri’s passion and desire to illuminate the more obscure Greek goddesses who are more often historically overlooked, or misrepresented, in favour of more serene, quieter beings.

“Hecate, the three headed goddess of magic and the night, known for her ability to see past, present and future, is depicted more rarely than the gentler Aphrodite or Athena, but for us this divine being represents the multifarious expression of the collection.”

Historically depicted carrying flaming torches through treacherous night journeys, the colour palette of the Divine Beings collection reflects the mysterious tales of the goddess Hecate. Red, yellow and copper intertwine with black and grey through various leather weaving and pleating techniques developed by Madara Rozensteina to create an almost water like texture, the garments themselves flow softly on the runway and it’s only on close inspection that they appear heavy as leather is.

There’s a cute little use of fuzzy felt type faux fur early in the show (London Fashion Week has been fully fur free for a few years now), which gives a nod to the season we’re actually in as well as some Spring Summer 20 forecasting which is real nice – perhaps a glance into the future of a new type of co-ed show?

Either way, I’m a sucker for leather and PRITCH London definitely know how to work with it. From those tight little box pleats that don’t cram in extra weight – something that’s hard to achieve with a heavy fabric, right through to those fit and flare body harnessed blazers; suffice to say, PRITCH London delivers eloquence whilst challenging the fashion status quo. Divine Beings is a real celebration of non-conformist skill and craftsmanship that deserves to be appreciated up close.

Pixie

Categories: The Fashion Closet

Amy Thomson FW19 Loved And Lost

Whenever my London Fashion Week schedule is finalised I always check it for my favourites. No we all know that fashion is fickle and whilst designers and their PRs move increase their audience and range with each new season, there’s always the case that some designers don’t make it back on to the schedule for whatever reason too. This season my beloved Starsica left a crucifix shaped hole in the schedule without any explanation, and another designer I was devastated to see missing was Amy Thomson. You might remember I covered her fabulously kitsch pink presentation at Fashion Scout last season which just screamed Barbara Cartland in the most fashion way possible, I mean I almost threw my credit card at the girl it was so fabulous. I wanted everything. This season I was excited, but it wasn’t meant to be. Or so I thought.

I arrived home from London, a little later than planned, to find an email from Amy, explaining that she wouldn’t be showing this season, however that she was still around and had indeed produced a small collection for FW19 entitled Loved And Lost. I mean I love it already, the title, the personal contact, – I’ve failed to mention that Amy is an illustrator so the email is filled with hand drawn pink and red hearts so I’m already feeling a connection…..

So, basically with each collection that Amy Thomson produces, there’s a story. With this one it’s a playful, childhood romance remembering treasured memories, emotions and relationships. This feminine filled love affair explores characters from the overwhelming love of your first crush to your first end of the world falling out with your BFF. Loved And Lost is inspired by romance, by relationships with objects and people at different stages of your life from a child’s perspective. Thomson has a real talent for asking the viewer questions that take them back to their youth and ask them to reimagine and re-examine, in this case it’s remembering your first overwhelming love. Maybe it’s a first pet, a toy, or even a first sweater that you’d wear over and over. Amy Thomson is asking us to remember, reimagine and to fall in love all over again.

Solo model shot for the Amy Thomson x Sassy Freak campaign for FW19 Fashion Voyeur Blog by Pixie Tenenbaum

Red is obviously a key tone throughout the collection for FW19 and it’s tonally matched with hues of precious pink, powerful purple and even a hint of teasing turquoise. Romance is a strong vibe and the use of texture conveys that well with faux fur outerwear complimenting the exaggerated full frill silk garments that hooked me in last season. Foiled leathers add in further sparkle and there’s an added element of hand embroidery this season.

Lead Image for Amy Thomson Sassy Freak Post Fashion Voyeur Blog by Pixie Tenenbaum model on a sofa in a ballgown

Thomson has ditched the large scale illustrations this season and instead focuses on illustrative playful motifs that are built up using text and slogans like ‘crushin on you’ and ‘teenage love shrine’ to further narrate the collective prints. This season brings with it a collaboration with Sassy Freak and some super freaky jewellery to further illustrate the narrative around this collection. Clip on earrings – very 1980’s hot mamma and one hell of a pair of glam-ma glasses with a pearl chain so glam-ma doesn’t lose ’em.

What’s really cool though, are the campaign images, shot by Georgie Fen at Poodle and Blonde Location House, they’re everything you might expect from the description above, and a little bit of insider information about Amy Thomson and her design style. Powerful, feminine and empowering, now how do I get hold of that first pink dress?

Pixie