London Fashion Week Archives - Page 2 of 11

Prophetik Let Them Be Naked for SS24

You might not have heard of sustainable fashion brand Prophetik, but you’ve must definitely seen it. Jeff Garner is the visionary behind the label, and he’s as gorgeous inside as he is out. With the idea that it’s better to be naked than clothe ourselves in synthetic materials, Garner’s vision for his SS24 collection grew from his connection to nature, and his complete commitment to create interesting, relevant plant based fashion.

A firm favourite with Miles Cyrus, Sheryl Crow, Taylor Swift, Kings of Leon and many more, Garner found himself and in turn, Prophetik, the subject of a documentary on sustainable fashion called “Remastered” available on Prime.

For SS24 Garner’s vision is clearer than ever. Looking at the processes which go into producing our clothes and the level of toxicity in those fabrics, he sought to produce a collection as close to pure as possible. A firm believer that art should not exist purely for commerce, Garner and Prophetik look to the past for inspiration in this new collection.

With thanks to The Pop Group and Frank Macdonald, House Photographer for imagery.

Categories: The Fashion Closet

JU-NNA SS24

On the surface JU-NNA seems like a relatively new kid on the block in fashion. Having been founded in 2019 by Jun Nakamura, the label has made huge strides in four short years. From a jaw dropping graduate collection showcasing techniques that are almost never seen in the fashion industry today, JU-NNA has gone on to make this a signature in the manufacturing process.

18th September 2023, 31 New Inn Yard, London. FS – JU-UNA presents their designs on the catwalk as part of London Fashion Week. © Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

Fusing modern, contemporary design, with traditional Japanese techniques including Shibori, the resulting collection is a beautiful nod to heritage processes which require skill and attention to detail, as well as practice in order to prevent the skill set from dying out with the artisans.

18th September 2023, 31 New Inn Yard, London. FS – JU-UNA presents their designs on the catwalk as part of London Fashion Week. © Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

JU-NNA SS24 is a visual spectacle, best viewed in HD in order to truly appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into creating this beautiful folding effect.

With thanks to Harriett at Black, and Chris Yates (runway photographer) for imagery.

Categories: The Fashion Closet

De fichier Episode 3

De fichier held it’s episode 3 reveal this fashion week season as a salon Privè presentation showcase allowing attendees to get up close and personal with the collection and really appreciate the fusing of technology with fashion design.

The family led fashion label produces beautiful womenswear in small quantities using only the most beautiful and often unexpected fabrics. The dual identity of uniform has been the main inspiration for episode 3, how on the one hand uniform can identify and classify social status and embody the leadership ruling class in order to suppress individuality, whilst on the other hand a uniform identifies group members and ensures the establishment of a unified social order highlighting an individual’s submission to social order and power. The duality is finite and contradictory at the same time, and de fichier has sought to represent this in this forthcoming collection.

The collection is as dramatic as it is delicate; with sharp elongated shoulders juxtaposed with soft draping, that duality is ever present. Highlights include a dress moulded from leather to produce a cast of the female form made in as few pieces as possible, viewed from afar it appears like linen or silk but up close, the harshness is visible for what it is.

Another piece features tiny 3d printed pieces which are taken from scores of video game code and stitched on to a jewelled bodice. Again when viewed from afar these appear like jewels, however up close, that blend of craftsmanship with technological programming is evident.

The salon privè format gives us the chance to appreciate the thought process behind a collection like this, where designers and seamstresses work alongside coders and programmers to produce a collection of future type clothing that has absolutely earned its place in the fashion industry

Categories: The Fashion Closet

Olivia Rubin’s 80’s Inspired Rainbow for FW20

On a cold wet February day in London the fashion elite gathered for Olivia Rubin’s rainbow coloured presentation and for twenty minutes we completely forgot about the weather and focussed completely on animal print hearts, polka dots and the swishing of silky tiers as they sashayed past us up the makeshift runway.

Rubin is known for her use of colour. She’s become synonymous with it, whether it’s pastels, prints, primary colours or checks, all of the above work themselves seamlessly into one collection because colour is the common denominator. Like RIXO, Olivia Rubin is a “sunny” designer, one that has the feel good factor, you know that when you slip on an Olivia Rubin dress, your mood will lift, and trust me, it really does.

A model wears pink on the runway at the Olivia Rubin Fall Winter presentation at london Fashion Week

A model wears polka dots on the runway at the Olivia Rubin Fall Winter presentation at london Fashion Week

A model wears pink silk tiers on the runway at the Olivia Rubin Fall Winter presentation at london Fashion Week

Her Fall Winter collection for 2020 is no exception – filled with sequins so tiny they’re almost fluid, tye dye ombré that was made for lazy vacation evenings and 80’s inspired silhouettes that look achingly cool when complimented with colour blocked opaque tights and wide sash belts; a look I’ll definitely be wearing next season and undoubtedly beyond.

A model wears 80's style polka dots on the runway at the Olivia Rubin Fall Winter presentation at london Fashion Week

A model wears wide necked fluid sequined tiers on the runway at the Olivia Rubin Fall Winter presntation at london Fashion Week

A model wears sequined tiers on the runway at the Olivia Rubin Fall Winter presntation at london Fashion Week

The most easily wearable and relatable look though is seen in Rubin’s signature rainbow colours draped effortlessly through tiers of fabric in either mini, midi or maxi dresses made from swathes of silk and sequins. With wide boat style necks these gorgeous swishy frocks are sure to keep your spirits high when temperatures begin to drop in September, and with her high end high street price point, they’re pretty affordable for us mere mortals too.

Pixie

Categories: The Fashion Closet

PRITCH London Divine Beings London Fashion Week

With London Fashion Week about to kick off for another season there are always a few pre-season openers that warm up show season nicely. We all know that New York Fashion Week isn’t what it used to be and with many of us no longer even optioning it as freelancers since the division of Fashion Month and instead opting for season openers like these instead, which give us an insight into Fashion Week on our home turf ahead of time.

Earlier this week PRITCH London gave us just that. The invite said simply ‘Divine Beings’ with a nod to Greek mythology in its illustration and its evening slot and dreamy church location hinted its opulence.

PRITCH London is a brand known for its non-conformist luxury and distinctive use of sustainable leather, something that they’ve worked hard to source. With Divine Beings, PRITCH London aim to elevate the wearer to divine, almost god-like status – translating the power of ancient Greek mythology through striking silhouettes completely unexpected and seemingly impossible in a fabric as unyielding as leather.

A model on the runway at the PRITCH London Divine Beings Runway Show in London

The story behind this vibrant collection comes from designer Federica Braghieri’s passion and desire to illuminate the more obscure Greek goddesses who are more often historically overlooked, or misrepresented, in favour of more serene, quieter beings.

“Hecate, the three headed goddess of magic and the night, known for her ability to see past, present and future, is depicted more rarely than the gentler Aphrodite or Athena, but for us this divine being represents the multifarious expression of the collection.”

Historically depicted carrying flaming torches through treacherous night journeys, the colour palette of the Divine Beings collection reflects the mysterious tales of the goddess Hecate. Red, yellow and copper intertwine with black and grey through various leather weaving and pleating techniques developed by Madara Rozensteina to create an almost water like texture, the garments themselves flow softly on the runway and it’s only on close inspection that they appear heavy as leather is.

There’s a cute little use of fuzzy felt type faux fur early in the show (London Fashion Week has been fully fur free for a few years now), which gives a nod to the season we’re actually in as well as some Spring Summer 20 forecasting which is real nice – perhaps a glance into the future of a new type of co-ed show?

Either way, I’m a sucker for leather and PRITCH London definitely know how to work with it. From those tight little box pleats that don’t cram in extra weight – something that’s hard to achieve with a heavy fabric, right through to those fit and flare body harnessed blazers; suffice to say, PRITCH London delivers eloquence whilst challenging the fashion status quo. Divine Beings is a real celebration of non-conformist skill and craftsmanship that deserves to be appreciated up close.

Pixie