The Fashion Closet Archives - Page 4 of 29

Pam Hogg SS24 – Dedicated to Sinead O’Connor

Dr Pam Hogg has always been the enfant terrible in the fashion industry, the rockstar romantic who pushes boundaries. It’s clear to see why the fashion designer has become a favourite of Lady Gaga and Kate moss amongst others.

Known as the Caledonian Queen of Cling, Hogg defies convention in her continuously re-purposed collections using vinyl, leather, PVC and netting to produce a provocative, punk inspired capsule.

Hogg has always championed the unconventional and this has been visible season after season in pieces and symbols which have become synonymous with her style. Her front row is always packed with a who’s who of icons who champion Hogg’s unconventional choices. From Nick and Susie Cave, to the members of the band All Saints. Lisa Snowdon to Jaime Winstone, her supporters are many and line up time and time again to see what will stomp down the runway in her latest collection.

SS24 was inspired by the return of the Goddess and entitled apocalypse. Hogg found herself troubled by thought of Sinead O’Connor’s terrible and tragic fate throughout the creative process of repurposing this current collection and as a result, made the difficult decision to use her voice as the opening to the show.

Hogg’s runway shows are always high up on my list of priorities during London Fashion Week, however this season felt new and inspired. Showcasing at a new location on a runway filled with light, in the past we’ve been used to viewing in a darker, more club-style atmosphere but this was a different experience altogether and one that allowed the viewer to immerse themselves fully in the spectacle.

Gorgeous, unpredictable and as slippy as always, can’t wait for next season.

With thanks to I.Dea, Nici Eberl and Elise K for imagery.

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Prophetik Let Them Be Naked for SS24

You might not have heard of sustainable fashion brand Prophetik, but you’ve must definitely seen it. Jeff Garner is the visionary behind the label, and he’s as gorgeous inside as he is out. With the idea that it’s better to be naked than clothe ourselves in synthetic materials, Garner’s vision for his SS24 collection grew from his connection to nature, and his complete commitment to create interesting, relevant plant based fashion.

A firm favourite with Miles Cyrus, Sheryl Crow, Taylor Swift, Kings of Leon and many more, Garner found himself and in turn, Prophetik, the subject of a documentary on sustainable fashion called “Remastered” available on Prime.

For SS24 Garner’s vision is clearer than ever. Looking at the processes which go into producing our clothes and the level of toxicity in those fabrics, he sought to produce a collection as close to pure as possible. A firm believer that art should not exist purely for commerce, Garner and Prophetik look to the past for inspiration in this new collection.

With thanks to The Pop Group and Frank Macdonald, House Photographer for imagery.

Categories: The Fashion Closet

JU-NNA SS24

On the surface JU-NNA seems like a relatively new kid on the block in fashion. Having been founded in 2019 by Jun Nakamura, the label has made huge strides in four short years. From a jaw dropping graduate collection showcasing techniques that are almost never seen in the fashion industry today, JU-NNA has gone on to make this a signature in the manufacturing process.

18th September 2023, 31 New Inn Yard, London. FS – JU-UNA presents their designs on the catwalk as part of London Fashion Week. © Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

Fusing modern, contemporary design, with traditional Japanese techniques including Shibori, the resulting collection is a beautiful nod to heritage processes which require skill and attention to detail, as well as practice in order to prevent the skill set from dying out with the artisans.

18th September 2023, 31 New Inn Yard, London. FS – JU-UNA presents their designs on the catwalk as part of London Fashion Week. © Chris Yates/ Chris Yates Media

JU-NNA SS24 is a visual spectacle, best viewed in HD in order to truly appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into creating this beautiful folding effect.

With thanks to Harriett at Black, and Chris Yates (runway photographer) for imagery.

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De fichier Episode 3

De fichier held it’s episode 3 reveal this fashion week season as a salon Privè presentation showcase allowing attendees to get up close and personal with the collection and really appreciate the fusing of technology with fashion design.

The family led fashion label produces beautiful womenswear in small quantities using only the most beautiful and often unexpected fabrics. The dual identity of uniform has been the main inspiration for episode 3, how on the one hand uniform can identify and classify social status and embody the leadership ruling class in order to suppress individuality, whilst on the other hand a uniform identifies group members and ensures the establishment of a unified social order highlighting an individual’s submission to social order and power. The duality is finite and contradictory at the same time, and de fichier has sought to represent this in this forthcoming collection.

The collection is as dramatic as it is delicate; with sharp elongated shoulders juxtaposed with soft draping, that duality is ever present. Highlights include a dress moulded from leather to produce a cast of the female form made in as few pieces as possible, viewed from afar it appears like linen or silk but up close, the harshness is visible for what it is.

Another piece features tiny 3d printed pieces which are taken from scores of video game code and stitched on to a jewelled bodice. Again when viewed from afar these appear like jewels, however up close, that blend of craftsmanship with technological programming is evident.

The salon privè format gives us the chance to appreciate the thought process behind a collection like this, where designers and seamstresses work alongside coders and programmers to produce a collection of future type clothing that has absolutely earned its place in the fashion industry

Categories: The Fashion Closet

The Perfect Ganni Seersucker Dupe Dress

Remember the Ganni Seersucker minidress that sent Instagram into a near meltdown last Summer? Well that gorgeous check pattern in its unmistakeable black and green hue is going nowhere this Summer and the puff sleeve, swing hem shape is sticking around all season. That particular Ganni dress was produced in a soft cheesecloth type fabric and I’m here to show you how you can recreate the look for a fraction of the price with 100% of the style, and some of the sustainability factor (not that Ganni is particularly known for its sustainability credentials).

Take one high street dress, I’ve always told you that it takes a half a season for the British high street to pick up on pieces at the top end of the fashion chain and turn them into pieces for consumption at the mid to bottom end of the fashion chain, that’s how this thing works. It takes Fashion Editors and journalists to spot those pieces, models and influencers to max out on them and then the high street to respond to that need after the social media responses are generated in terms of your likes and comments. Those pieces are then produced in a direct response to what you, the consumer expects, wants and needs as a forecast for the season ahead based on what was popular in the previous season – these are called micro-trends. Ok, fashion lesson over, on to the dress and this one is a doozie….

Pixie Tenenbaum wears a green and black checked minidress dupe of the Ganni Seersucker minidress at St Mary's Inn in Morpeth — Lime Green Seersucker dupe £35.00 at Topshop

It’s an almost exact replica of the fabric in terms of wearability, it’s got that same cheesecloth type feel with the banding that runs through the checks. The sleeves stay puffed up (the Ganni dress has to be re-puffed regularly if that’s the look you’re going for), and this one doesn’t have a deep v-neck which is good if you’re particularly flat chested like me. It’s empire cut so is almost a fit and flare style from the bust out, a very flattering cut on most shapes, especially given its shorter length.

We all know the Ganni Seersucker sold like hot cakes when it was reduced in the sale to £150, but this Seersucker dupe from high street giant Topshop is just £35.00 and you can buy it here, but be quick because I can’t see this one sticking around. It’s the perfect seasonal transition dress paired with opaques, a light polo neck and boots and then on its own for lazy Summer days and vacations paired with cowboy boots. Of course if you’re not sold on the empire line and puff sleeves – I get that it’s not a look for everyone – but you want in on the pattern, then Topshop also have this straight bodied version available with frill detailing on the front if this is more your thing for £39.99.

Either way, get amongst it Voyeurs, this is one with a decent amount of wearability in it.

Pixie